Every pitch feels like 5.7: (Descriptions are Approx.)

1st: from snag on exposed side of ridge follow cracks up to just below the roof

2nd: under roof and out right another 50 ft.

Class 3 for ten mins

3rd: start on the steepening ground and follow cracks up until comfortable or you reach the base of a 10" crack.

4th: Find or start up 10" crack (gear to left), short. Once on top follow finger and hand cracks until past a shallow gully and bushes, belay at flat section.

5th: follow crack in corner to the right, or cracks strait above to a tree. Follow corner that the tree is in (lieback). Once above corner follow moderate ground before another steepening in the ridge.

6th: follow cracks (picture) up to less steep ground. Belay after ~140 feet, before final head wall which has #3 crack out left.

7th: optional, #3 crack Left of an easier gully. Short, two or three pieces, but well worth it.

Descend the route (careful, some rope stretching raps with a 60)

Spontaneity Arete

First Amendment

Spontaneous Distraction

First Amendment climbs almost directly up the West face of La Petit Cheval. The route starts in earnest after a short low 5th pitch on a large ledge with trees and a white streaked wall to the left of a big arch.

Pitch 1: Starts via a short, direct, and obvious 5.10a thin crack or a 5.8 crack to the right. Easier 5th class climbing to the start of pitch 2.

Pitch 2: Ascend low angle cracks up and right to a 5.9 face climbing section with minimal gear.  Climb up into a big choss cave with bolts to begin pitch3.

Pitch 3: Climb around the corner to the left of the belay bolts and up blocky nondescript terrain until reaching a ledgy area with a short vegetated groove to the left. Keep your eye out for this groove and don't climb too high. 5.9

Pitch 4: Traverse right and down climb a little during the traverse, then climb up easy 5th to a large sloping ledge with two belay bolts.

Pitch 5: Start climbing to the right of the belay bolts on the most obvious or easiest section through weird bulges to a finger crack dihedral with a big tree in the middle of it. 5.9

Pitch 6: Climb up and right through thin cracks into a series of changing corners. To exit the last corner either climb up and left through a weird bulge with big quartz pockets or right into the last corner ending at a tree with the bolt in sight of the next pitch. 5.10c

Pitch 7: Mantle a big ledge to the right of the belay, clip the bolt and climb up the corner ascending obvious features ending at a tree.

From here the route follows Spontaneity Arete to the summit. Climb up and left to reach the Goldie Crack and continue up obvious and easy terrain to the summit.

I've entered the given grade for the route but feel it deserves a significant downgrade, 10.b tops. The "crux 5.11" pitch is maybe .10a.

This route will probably never become classic. It lacks sustained interesting features, a natural line, remoteness, or intimidating posture... any of which can contribute to a classic route. But if you wanna be alone and tick a soft 5.11 with an hour approach go get it!

Pitch One-  Locate the first bolt which blends in very well.  From here climb just above the left trending overlap (see Beta Photo) then up over 3 bolts on some exciting face climbing 5.10a

Pitch Two- Head up past two bolts and catch a crack(5.10a).  Traverse right at the third bolt and take easier cracks to the anchor.

Pitch Three- A sport pitch with a tough start(5.10a) easing into more moderate face climbing(5.7-8) after the first twenty feet. Climb until you reach the tree anchor.

Pitch Four.  Continue up fun cracks (5.6-7) to the top build a gear anchor or belay off of a tree.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Le Petit Cheval