Electric Puppy Machine (5.10d)

This area classic is just one in a handful of other stellar routes on the Main Wall, which climbs impeccable granite in a beautiful setting. Put up by Kernville local Mark “Marco” Krebs and Herb Laeger, ‘Electric Puppy Machine’ is one plum that needs plucking! And the name? Well, as the story goes, Marco brought his wolf pup Kenai the day of the first ascent. While he was working on the second pitch, Herb called up, “Hey, I think your dog is pregnant.” In reply, while a motorcycle battery was being hauled up to power the drill, Marco shouted down “No she’s not!”. It was then when the battery came up between his legs, the leads shorted. This set off a series of sparks and Marco spilling a loud laundry list of expletives. This in turn set off Kenai into several mournful howls. And the name was hatched!  **NOTE** - Rumor has been confirmed that Kern River Brewing Company of Kernville has brewed an Imperial Stout aged in bourbon barrels in honor of Mark Krebs and his legacy. The name of the brew? You guessed it! To be released late spring/early summer of 2022.

Pitch #1:

Start in a shallow right facing corner, below a large overhang. Once the corner ends, climbing the face to a ledge with a manzanita bush. From the bush, climb up to a bulge and then to a small flake (1st pitch crux). Pull up and left above the flake to larger holds underneath a large roof. Clip a bolt (use long sling here) and traverse out right onto good foothold approximately 15 feet. Climb to a small roof, surmounting it using good face holds above and eventually to a 2-bolt belay. (90’, 5.10a)

Pitch #2:

Get ready to get your thin edging and crimping skills on! This pitch is fairly sustain. Climb up and slightly left on thin face holds and overcome a series of mantles on the way up. Continue to a small overhang, protecting it with #2 and #3 TCU’s (use runners). Traverse out left and up to a bolt. Keep climbing out left and up on thin holds. Climb up then back right to a crack. Follow the crack to a 2-bolt belay. (150’, 5.10d)

Pitch #3:

Climb up a shallow corner for a short distance then out onto small but manageable holds to a 2-bolt belay. (70’, 5.10a)

Electric Puppy Machine

Dessert Eagle

Russell In The Wind

Little Wing

Welcome to Bald Eagle Peak

Russell In The Wind (5.10a)

This fantastic route was dedicated to the memory of Russell Nakatsucasa, who was Herb's good friend and climbing partner at the time. Russell died doing what he loved most....climbing in the great outdoors! This route is a good warm up to the routes next door.

Pitch #1:

Start a ledge with a shallow corner next to a bush. Stem the corner to gain the first bolt. Clip three bolts along the way before gaining the small roof above. Move out right below the roof then up on delicate balanced moves before reaching larger hold above. Traverse left then mantle (committing) up before gaining four more bolts and finally the 2-bolt anchor. (120', 5.10a)

Pitch #2:

Head up a shallow corner then to the face above on decent holds. Follow the line of bolts to a large ledge with a 2-bolt belay. (150', 5.10a)

Make 2 rappels to the ground

From the ring anchors at the start of the route, climb right and up onto a small ledge. Climb the left leaning crack for 20' where you'll encounter the crux (.10b). Be sure to get in a decent cam then make a delicate step out on the steep face and then step up onto a knob. Keep climbing the last portion of the crack before it peters out. The climbing eases up from there. Move right and up to meet up with an easy flaring crack. Continue up this crack and finally to the anchors.

Start by pulling up onto a small ledge and clip the first bolt.  Move out slightly left and up to gain the next two bolts. At the third bolt, move into a rounded small corner by stemming over right. Clip the 4th bolt and move up and right onto thin edges (crux). The route eases up just before the 5th and final bolt.

Pitch One:  140 ft. Easy climbing to a bolt 25 feet up and just left of a small arete, then follow the bolts through weakness in roof to the anchors. Pitch Two: Climb right and up off the belay.  The second pitch is in your face from the time you leave the belay and it doesn't let up for a long time.  Each time you figure out a move and reach the next bolt there is another puzzle to work out.  Probably one of the finest face pitches I have climbed in the last thirty years.  The bolts will eventually lead you to a slightly angled 2 foot roof.  There are jams to be had under it and a hard to see bolt just over the lip.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bald Eagle Peak