Awesome power endurance route, unlike many other Botany lines. Traverse a  short tier between roofs on good crimps but no feet. Save enough for the thin redpoint crux and hard clip at the 6th bolt. The remainder of the climb has a few tricky roof pulls. Make sure you know what you're doing.

Tug Madraw

Cy Hung

Tug my Peter

Crank Aaron

All Strikes. No Balls.

Ryne Sandbag

Pinch Hitter

Chin Music

Reggie Crackson

Mickey Mantle

Slider

Pete Throws

Babe Ruthless

Around The Horn

Grand Jam

Jose Conflako

Mayday Malone

Enjoy the steepest of Black Hills climbing on nearly invisible, improbable and impossible holds. Tends to get sporty! One of a handful of 5.14 climbs in Spearfish Canyon. This is our equivalent hitting one out of the ball park and into the parking lot. Get on it if you have the desire to go down swinging!

Three distinct cruxes, each separated by no hands ledges. The longest of the steep routes. This thing is an ordeal.

Link up of Pete Throws into Tug Madraw. This is an excellent pitch packed with great sustained climbing. 

 Start on Pete and pull through the crux at the fourth bolt. Traverse left here clipping two blue chains that take you right over into the gold chains. From here enjoy sustained 5.12 climbing to the anchor. Classic Botany!

Creep up a crimpy start and work your butt in and out of a dihedral. Sick and pumpy to the top.

Climb the first four bolts of Jose Conflako and head right at the rail. Fun climbing until a crazy move at the top crushes your dreams of being an all star. 

  Rating is dependent on what region of fantasy land you hail from.

This one will make you step up to the plate and go down swinging! 

  The beginning of this fine route is the ultimate jug-haul that will get you horizontal and off your feet! 

  The big buckets come to an abrupt end when you move up to a headwall with some technically weird holds that include sick fingerlocks and cool crimps. Be prepared to drop the ball and take the ride. A great introduction to the thrills, spills and chills found on its much bigger teammates to its left.

The next route left of Grand Jam.  Climb more or less straight up looking for holds on both sides of the bolt line.  With no chalk and some chossy rock within reach, this makes for a tough onsight at the grade.

Like usual Botany, the crux starts as soon as you pull on to the steep. Create your own sequence on the sweet holds then cop an OK rest. Trend up and right through the roofs which is no gimme. One of the top lines here!!

Powerful/dynamic opening moves give way to easier but pumpy middle section. Even though there are a couple no hands rests it never seems to make that darn finish any easier! Slap, palm, and hopefully get a foot up on the slab that caps a roof. Then you'll be at the anchors.

Left of Chin Music the Dugout becomes steeper and more interesting.  Start on good holds, make a tough 2nd clip and crank to a good rest below a small roof.  Inch out the roof and trend up and left to better holds and anchors.  Recommended.

The classic easier line of the steeper routes. Heading straight out the center of the ampitheater, pull through burly moves on awful feet up to the throw. Exciting redpoint crux before awesome no hands rest in middle of route. Very fun to watch friends take sweet rides on this one!

If you love long, technical routes with varied terrain, powerful moves and beautiful veiw from the nosebleed section of the upper deck, do not miss this one! 

  As far as we can tell, this is the only two pitch route in Spearfish Canyon (baseball pun intended!) 

  The first pitch has you hurling yourself over powerful moves on overhung, blonde rock and is believed to go at 5.11c. Get ready to crimp and beg for the next jug! This fairly famous pitch has at least two stopper cruxes, both involving technique and the need to beat a quickly running pump clock. The last ten feet before the anchors seem to shut down most climber's dreams of running around all the bases before completely running out of steam. 

  After a pumpy/technical battle, gain the first anchors and bail if you are about to barf. Or, if you can handle more innings of ass-kickery, take a few dozen deep breaths and get that heart rate back to normal. The next 20 feet of climbing involves an easy slab that becomes a mental challenge because of the long run out known as "The Second Inning Stretch." 

  After groveling through the run out, clip a bolt in the steep, black belly, preferably using a shoulder length sling. Gain some more ground on a strange blocky outcropping and clip another bolt over your shoulder. AND NOW THE FUN BEGINS! Navigate and crawl up two small holds (a right hand sidepull and a left hand sloper crimp) to a good right hand side pull and gain some traction with a left knee bar. Using your left hand, reach out and grab a long black and orange rail using pure precision and allow your feet to cut. Allow your body to swing to the left in the correct gymnastic sequence and huck for a left hand juggy crimp, get a leg up to a knob and clip. There is no time to waste! Commit to some sick crimps and reach to the right around the finny feature to a pocket. Hoist yourself up on scary feet and rest on huge holds.  

  Get it all back and finish with the best five ten climbing in the canyon up a black and blonde arete with big moves and huge holds with exposure that will leave you breathless and begging for more if you send. For some, this is the warm-up for the rest of the crag. For many, it will be a lifetime achievement award. Get on it and be ready to play ball!  

  AN ABSOLUTE MUST DO! YOU WILL NOT WANT TO MISS THIS ONE!

Locate the left-facing dihedral at the bottom of the dugout and climb it.

A stout warm-up. Starts on vertical to semi-overhanging blonde rock with crimpers in between solid, bigger holds. 

  Layback the first roof and claw and fight your way up and over a series of three roofs on monster jugs. SICK! BIG MOVES! BIG HOLDS! 

  PUMPY! Keep in mind that this route trends right! Towards the top the temptation to follow a crack up a slabby ledge might lead you too far out left to the point that the final bolt will not be in sight or in easy reach. 

  Don't freak. Work your way right, reach around the  arete and git r' dun! The final roof is the last of about four cruxes that may seem strenuous and a bit scary your first time at bat.  

  This route might have you doubting if you are ready to graduate from the minors to the big leagues.

Props to Lee for bolting this improbable looking line. Crux holds are very far apart. Decent jug rest comes right before redpoint crux. Route finishes on Cy Hung.

The steepest climbing in Spearfish Canyon can be found just fifteen minutes outside of town with a hike less than five minutes from the road.With walls in league with Victoria Canyon, or Rifle Colorado, the massive climbs at The Stadium boast a go big or go home ethic. This is a crag with plenty of gnarly thrills to be had by all who dare to step up to the plate when the ump calls, "Batter Up!"Let us take you out to the ball game...

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Routes in Botany Bay a.k.a "The Stadium"