Start underneath the head of the dinosaur parallel to the start block above you, follow the series of decent holds to the crux where you pull the roof. Static crux sequence - approach involving a high right side cling with a right foot high toe cam and stabilizing your weight beneath you with your left foot for power and direction.  Ease into the move of reaching around the lip of the overhang till you find a rough cutout for your left hand ~6in above lip (marked red-box in photo)... (likely will be invisible to you)  Dynamic crux sequence move from the lower pinch jugs below the crimpy right side cling.  Flick your left arm out and around to the left and cutout (red-box marked) above the shelf (likely cut one or both legs).  Transition yourself out of the shelf following the features of the arete to the top

Flexus Dyrexus

Terra Ferra

Enigmatic

Around the Rock House

Cedar's Traverse

Slabbery Kisses

Slab King

Spotlight

Down the Rabbit Hole

Captain's Corner

Cave Habits

La Roca

Courtyard Linkup

Clinger Crack

Over the Top

Climb direct from the start using the dominant features of the roof flake, avoid dropping your feet from the start as they will land you on the ground.  Pull through the roof transition and easy on up to topout.  Keep true to the grading by following with your feet rather than using the broken flakes and blocks to your right, when your underneath, on the ground--

ONLY CLIMB POROUS CONGLOMERATE IN DRY CONDITIONS TO AVOID BREAKAGE*POOR QUALITY LITHIFICATION*Ascent Video youtu.be/8TgtPA9TKns

  Underneath the overhang of Little Subway Boulder, obvious start "pinch rail"usually has remnants of chalk due to sheltered overhang, very low spread feet grabbing surface friction more than a feature. Move quickly through a set of crimps up to the prominent iron rail (ferra) and traverse right along it.  Bump right to a series of blind side clings to move around to the vertical side of the boulder, the earthy side (terra), please keep the moss present there for the natural look and promotion of technique through the sequence, avoid contacting the moss to keep feet dry. Easy top out following iron rails that you navigate by finding a balance in your feet, poor hand holds.

Lots of holds. Some lengthy reaches. Be careful toping out. It's pretty high up and tricky. Get two hands on the sloper and get higher feet. Above the sloper is a really nice jug. Downclimb over to the right of La Roca.

This is a Traverse around the 'Rock House' rock. There is a small portion that is exposed from dripping water from the roof above - thus that part is a bit mossy, so the small pockets are a bit of a pain. If this route was cleaned up and moss removed I would downgrade this to a V1-.  

  At the end of the climb - climb up the corner to the natural walk path and walk off the rock.

Start at the arete and move left horizontally, following the larger slots and full hand pockets. This problem ends about halfway across the wall with a 3 finger pocket about 7 feet up

Using the same start block as Flexus Dyrexus orient yourself to pull the roof immediately to your right and pull up into a touchy slab climb, get intimate with a variety of micro features and top-out to down climb a rock/moss step down the backside of the boulder

I scrubbed some moss off to find footholds. Look for high feet when you get higher, traverse to the left a little and top out. The top out is solid stone with little moss. Downclimb to the left. Careful not to slip on the moss.

Climb up the arete with anything you can find. Be very careful toping out. There's a few inches of dirt and moss.  I dug my fingers into that to top out. Downclimb to the left down in between the boulders.

Sit start with hands on any of the ledges and feet smeared on the wall. Pull hard to the nice pinch. Go up on edges to top out.

A fun warm-up route. Starts on the right side of the arete, generous holds for the first bit, a perfect round pocket for a couple of fingers then you swing over to the left onto La Roca for a moment until you reach that first ledgy jug, then work yourself back over to be more centered on the corner to grab the top hold, which is another ledgy jug. Bonus points if you want to take it all the way to the top.Route established and ascended by Kenny Killingbeck (Age 11)

Use the left side of the arete. Plenty of holds. Top out is a bit sketchy. It's a nice warmup. Downclimb the crack to the right. Be cautious of slick moss on crack for the downclimb.

youtu.be/Nr88zV8knXs Traverse the Courtyard boulder wall to the top-out at the arete (right-side), moving from left to right. Great warm-up sequence in area, not many locations cleaned entirely like the Courtyard Boulder, ideal for endurance routes with long traversing starts

-High Ball Boulder-   Easy route following the left side of the "damp" crack and the left face towards the top (very juggy but might also have sand, wet, moss, lichen ---  needs cleaning every season) from the base of the crack

Start above where the red writing is. Traverse right and up into the right leaning overhang. Topout is great. 

Multiple rock outcroppings contained within Rock City State Forest near Ellicottville, NY. The vast majority of the climbing is bouldering, but there are a few opportunities for top roping.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rock City State Forest