medium to large size holds of various qualities (mostly Slopers, crimps, jugs, pockets and side pulls). a 12' start to the first clip. The crux is difficult to determine given its" characteristics. The route can be thought of a sustained boulder problem. This route provides a pumpy experience,, leaving your muscles burning more than your tendons/ligaments.

Gluten Intolerance

See You Try, See You Fail

The Phoenix

Overbearing Exposure

The Trident

Coping Mechanism

Unknown

First Born

Shoot First, Ask Later

Mickey Mouse

Double Trouble

Slap & Tickle

Sir Charles

Ali Cat

Black & Tan

Overbearing Underminer

Double Exposure

Bunny Slope

G-String

Hide and Seek

U.S. Senators Are Space Aliens

Grumpy after Eight

Edge of Tears

Mondo Freako

Giggling Marlin

The Mangler

Direct Start

Diaper Rash

Scramble up a broken section past a tree to a ledge. Climb the arete to a  2 bolt rap. First move off the deck has some exposure.

Easy start up bucket pockets to a high first bolt. Nasty fall if you blow it, but the holds are positive and pretty mellow. More pockets and edges lead through a couple more bolts. After, make a hard left along a rail to join the "Direct" route."

You can start on the first 2 bolts of Ali cat then step right of the corner and head up the bolted face between the crack and a tree passing 5 bolts to the obvious belay from a dirty ledge in the giant chimney. Or scramble up to the ledge and belay from the base of the wall skipping anything to do with Ali cat. There are a lot of loose rocks at the base of the climb and you can send one down on a belayer on Ali cat so be careful!Pitch two:follow 5 bolts up the steep face (Crux 1) that eases to a massive ledge with rap rings under a roof.Pitch three:climb past 5 bolts through the Roof (Crux 2) to rap rings.you can either rap each pitch or do I two raps. 

Climb the start of Overbearing Underminer, after the vertical crimpy face, climb through a sea of jugs to a break. You have the option to go straight up through the chimney which is Overbearing Underminder, instead use a long runner on the bolt and head left to the roof section of Double Exposure. The roof has broken in years past and involves a big move off of a left hand sidepull crimp (VERY WORTHY movement), or cheat out left and climb big lay back jugs to the anchor of Double Exposure. 

Short but fun route. Stem up the dihedral and achieve a lovely rail directly beneath the roof. The 4th bolt is not visible from the ground, but it's directly above the 3rd bolt after you pull the roof. Navigate a small bulge and it's smooth sailing from there. 

A good warm up route (along with Mondo Freako on the same wall, just to the left). Pocketed face past 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

This Route has everything from the chimney, stemming and face climbing.  It does wander a bit though so it may not be the best top rope option.

Excellent climb located in the Atlantis area. Start below a large, steep bulge and move up to a ledge with thin crimps and a high pocket. Thin holds transition into a committing move to a large dish (crux). Continue up overhung face to easier vertical section above and anchors. Moving to the left of the bolt line would drop the grade. The climb has a reputation among locals as one of the best in Queen Creek and a must-do for those visiting The Road area.

Slick start through broken cracks to an epic double crack up to a small Bush. At the bush climb right onto the face for the anchors of shoot first ask later! 

This is the huge overhung chimney visible just above Atlantis when driving back to Phx from the Pond.  It is kinda spooky looking, shady east facing wall.  Climbs like a trad route with bolts.  Crux is difficult stemming to pass the roof.

KGB has, I think, two crux sections.  The first is the thin face near the start and the second is pulling the roof.  This is a delicate climb with fun moves and sustained pulling.  A good rest under the roof enables the on-sight or redpoint.

Climb the crack approximately 30' up to a ledge.  The climbing to the ledge is low 5th class with no bolts, however, you could place some pro in the crack if you like.  Clip the first bolt after you reach the ledge and proceed up the bolted face.

Just right of the crack route "Hide and Seek" on a long broken pillar. It looks like the rock won't be great but actually it's good. fairly steep but is so full of jugs and edges it stays easy.

Follow the thin, slightly less than vertical face past some fun moves, but plenty of flexing holds and friable rock.  Step left at the end to clip the anchors for Slap & Tickle

Angle to the right from just below First Born/Double Exposure. Hard/tricky just after 3rd bolt and going over the 4th then it gets easier again. Funky moves at the last two bolts through the crack/chimney. Long route, 60m rope or tie knots on a 50m when rappelling.

This climb has lots of variety. It starts the same as First Born to the left of KGB.  The 2 distinct roofs are easy to notice.

Low angle face. Enjoyable climb.  A little thin going past 2nd bolt.

Just as you enter the canyon from the trail, on the right side of the canyon, about 10 feet to the right of Sir Charles is a hand crack up mostly good rock. A bit loose in a couple spots but at this grade you won't be pulling down hard. Mostly 5.5/5.6 climbing. Great for the beginning trad leader. Great Pro whenever you need it. Lots of pockets and stances

This route has its first two bolts on an arete  several feet right of where the actual climbing happens out left. The crux is off the third bolt which leads to easy ground. The climbing over a bulge on the last bolt is non-trivial (tho easier then the crux below). Reasonably clean, though the move structure is just "okay".

The bulging face is probably the crux.  Bucket  pockets and rails makes this a fun, albeit a bit pumpy climb.  A scrambling start to a ledge before the route kicks in.

Fun little 4 bolt face with some awesome pockets and jugs. Well protected. Good route for a new leader.

 Here's to great friends and coping with emotion.

Short climb up a pocketed face.  Nothing particularly special except perhaps a nice easy warm-up route.

Great moderate climb! As with other routes in Atlantis, features a variety of holds and moves that keep it interesting and allow creative climbing. Ledges, pockets, underclings, pinches. It's a great warmup, especially if some of the shorter warmup/beginner routes are occupied.

Climb the arete past several bolts.  The crux is near the bottom, making a reachy move up and left to a nice pocket, then up and right on smaller holds to a decent rest on the arete.  Cruise on nice holds to the top.

A key two finger, one pad right hand under-cling got me through the crux.  Nice climb.  Short, but nice.

Although a fun climb, the suspect rock on this climb makes it a bit freaky on lead.  A runout section above the second bolt makes a ground fall potential.

These routes encompass all of the routes on the south side of the canyon. The south side tends to host a greater number of vertical and moderate routes than the north side.  

  Routes like Mickey Mouse, G-string, the Trident, and Ali Cat all start outside of the mouth of the canyon. A few routes like Slap and Tickle and the Mangler are located above the dam. All the others are in the guts of the canyon. 

  You'll find solid rock on all of the well traveled routes, but expect the occasional potato chip flake. 

  AM Shade / PM Sun

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Atlantis South Side