Pretty good for a Gorge trad line.  Solid rock, good pro and a minimum of bird crap.  The crux is right off the deck protected by a small nut.  Solid pro, some good jams and a few jugs continue up the crack to a final bulge/wider section (which contains some foul smelling bird "stuff").

Power Surge

House of Cards

PG13

Days of Future Past

Sunny on My Shoulder

Oompa Loompa

No Lifeguard on Duty

Flight of Fancy

Timeless

Time Will Tell

Workers Watching

Warning Signs

Red Circle with a Slash

Results May Vary

R.P.  #4

Willy's ChalkALot

Outflow Hazard

Land Before Time

Tempus Fugit

Wonka

Business Time

Surgeon General

Back to the Future

Enter at Your Own Risk

Sharptooth

Fish Ladder

Time Out (of Mind)

A contrived bolt line in between two lines of weakness, it is possible to make this much easier than 10d by using the crack of Power Surge and/or the groove to the left of the bolt line. In fact, it is hard not to do so.

Varied route through slopers, pinches, and jugs. Start straight up the water groove on tricky pinches, then battle a crux made of hard crimps, finishing with a stretch of better crimps and some interesting traverse moves.

Start on the left side of the crack.   After the 2nd bolt cross over to the right and continue up with a couple of tricky moves, before things ease off.

Start by moving up and right past a low roof on some chunky rock, then left to a dihedral. Layback and stem to a ledge, then continue up and right to a good stance below a  bulge.

Clip a bolt and work your way up a flake, and bust through the crux (fixed draw) on small but positive edges and tricky feet. Take a shake and continue through a steep section of long reaches between good holds.

At the top, transition right onto a slab and work through a hanging dihedral and exit right to the anchors.

70 meter rope required, and watch and/or knot your ends for safety on the lower-off.

Fun but short like the rest over here. Makes for a good warm up if you do all of these before heading over to the longer routes to the left.

Another short route that can catch you off gaurd.

From the platform, climb easy terrain, then move  through steepening rock to a bulgey arete (5.10d/.11a). Surmount the ledge then move right on a slab to gain a shallow dihedral & insecure face moves on great rock (5.11b).

Longer draws on bolts 7 & 8 make a cleaner rope run.

Tricky, technical, and fairly sustained.  In sum, a much better route than the eponymous and more popular cousin to the North.

My partner and I identified different cruxes, neither of which is featured in Marty's book.

Exercise care around the 6th & 7th bolts, where a fall + slack and/or inattentive belayer could deck the leader on the pillar left of the route.  Next time I'd have a piece (orange or red TCU?) for the bottom of the crack.

Exercise caution using a 60 meter rope; the belayer will have to scramble up 5 feet, and the climber will have to untie and down-climb (4th class) the last 5-10 feet of the gulley.  Alternatively, lower to the top of the pillar at left and rap from the anchors there.

In any case, tie a knot in the end of the rope.

Face climb past spaced bolts and a pin to a horizontal break, move carefully past this to gain the last bolt, then run it out to the top.

Step off the ledge up and right, then climb fun pockets and slots to a steepening face & tricky exit moves.

It may be a bit harder if you miss a key hold.

Scramble up some blocky steps to the bottom of the wall.   The crux of the climb comes in the first third of the route - 2nd to 4th bolt.

The climbing although easier above continues to be very enjoyable all the way to the finish.

A great climb and a must do for the cliff.

From over by Warning Signs and PG13, this route looks like it has the potential to be awesome.

Then you get on it.  The rock is crumbly at the start, and you clip two bolts and work your way left.

The farther you move left, the bigger the holds but the crummier the rock quality.

Move right past two close bolts through the .10c crux, then up onto the low-angle slab to the anchor.

Results May Vary is a steep, sustained technical face climb, positive and interesting holds will help you keep the pump factor at bay.

The first 6 bolts are spaced far enough apart to keep your attention. Above, a couple of fun crack moves, then bust out right to the 7th bolt to easier climbing up to an anchor over an arete.

Climb easily up to the overhang, passing four bolts.   Pull over the overhang on huge holds and get established on the face above.

Getting to and passing the last bolt and up to the anchors is the crux.   The crux sequence is fingery, but the holds are all there.

One move at the first bolt, then lots of good holds.

Start up a steep face with few long opening moves, then continue up to a pod.

Clip a bolt and it's go-time. Techy and continuous climbing on side-pulls and crimps to a rounded flake/crack feature at the top.

Bust this out to a ledge with anchors.

Climb up to the break clipping the bolts that may seem to far to the right.  Continue up the face on good but small holds past two more bolts.

Tricky climbing off the deck leads to a transition right to a stepped flake and the "double mono-pockets" move - the beginning of the crux. Pull, balance and smear past the 7th & 8th bolts to easier ground, then transition right through a bulge. Finish on an easy slab.

Pull a few tricky moves onto a steep face to start, then continue up and right through a shallow dish feature. Exit left to easier climbing, and continue to anchors.

Finger crack to face to wide crack.

The latter is easily negotiated by stepping left to right -- gaining the crack from a pillar -- but the move, above a ledge, isn't protected so well.

Climb a face and flake to a pod, then move up and left through a steep face. Take a shake, then continue up fun face climbing to a stance at a thin crack.

Continue up via crack and arete climbing to a steep dihedral, then move right to the anchors.

Well-bolted but poorly starred: the second best hard 5.10 at the cliff (rivals Timeless for the top spot).

Crux around 3rd bolt -- pockets and edges through a steep section -- but it stays interesting in the second half.

This is a fun short route to do if you have gear with you.

Easy climbing to the third bolt delivers you to the first of three 5.11 cruxes. Continue up steep, varied & continuous climbing with OK rests.

The final bulge holds a third crux and tricky moves to gain a face. Fun 5.10 climbing past 3 more bolts to anchors.

Climb a fun face to a flake/arete that finishes on a narrow ledge. Move right & continue up a short steep face, then move left to finish.

One can easily TR "Sharptooth" by clipping the anchors as a directional on the lower-out.

Description

Protection

Routes in Warning Signs