1. Climb the face of the pillar to a ledge at its top. It's quicker, easier, and no less (much more! - ed.) pleasant to solo up the right-facing corner on the right side of the pillar. 5.5 or 4th class, respectively, 40 feet.  

  2. From the right side of the ledge, go up and a bit right to several small, left-facing corners; these are 25 feet or so off the ledge. From the last of these, move over a bulge (crux) then go straight up to the GT ledge. The latest guidebook mentions mentions passing a piton; the only pin on this pitch is within arm's reach while you are standing on the ledge. 5.9, 60 feet. 

  3. Scramble up and left. Then move straight up the face past a small pod, pass to the left of a large flake and on to the top. 5.6, 100 feet.  

  Notes on P3 from K Swissto: 

Deep Lichen (left) and Steep Hikin (right) parallel each other.Deep Lichen is completely clean and there is a strip of clean, white rock. Definitely PG/PG13 depending on your comfort level. Becomes more PG if you carry tricams.Steep Hikin is COVERED  in deep lichen and you can't see it/find it anymore.

Steep Hikin'

Supper's Ready

Updraft

Nurse's Aid

CCK Direct

Feast of Fools

Moonlight

Face to Face

Diana

Strolling on Jupiter

Deacon Blues

Erect Direction

Lost and Found

Android-Moby Dick link-up

Annie Oh!

Limelight

Jim's Gem

[Redacted]

Easy Verschneidung (Easy V)

Cold Turkeys

Traverse of the Clods

Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)

Red Pillar

Modern Times

Deep Lichen

Man's Quest for Flight

Unholy Wick

Andrew

Silhouette

Crack' N Up

Arrow

Hans' Puss

Quiver

Smilin' the Hard Way

Proctor Silex

Step Lively

Proctoscope

Twilight Zone

Keep on Struttin'

The Last Will Be First

Hawkeye

Three Vultures Direct

Vanishing Point

Amber Waves of Pain

Three Vultures

Three Doves

Moby Dick

No Glow

Supper's Ready is one of the Gunks' definitive multi-tiered roof routes, if not the granddaddy of 'em all. 

  Start up the face and corner of Hans' Puss.  You can climb the corner, or just left of it, for ~60 feet.  When the corner turns roofy and heads left, look up and out behind you for a line of chalked holds. Bouldery moves get you established on the tiers, then lead to long static or dynamic moves between jugs until you reach the final lip encounter.  At the lip, some bouldering strength is helpful to pull over via small crimps.  Just after the lip make a great dyno for a good bucket, and then follow weakness and horizontals to the GT ledge and a wire belay around a tree.  150 feet, 12a PG.   

  There is a second pitch that goes at 12a as well, though it did not look like it sees much action.

Updraft climbs the huge corner and chimney just left of CCK and 60' right and uphill from Moonlight. 

  The Updraft access trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder. 

  At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. 

  P1: Climb the corner to the GT ledge. 5.3, 110'. 

  P1 variation: Do the first pitch of CCK. 

  P2: Fun for the grade. Continue up the corner to the chimney. Climb INTO the chimney for about 30' and then squeeze your way out of the exit at the top. Tight squeeze depending on how big you are. Wear pants or tape your knees. If you have a pack on drop it between your legs. 5.5, 120'. 

  I only did this climb for the 2nd pitch. Definitely fun and interesting.

Nurse's Aid in a nice climb that launches up the wall just left of Feast of Fools.  The face below the roof is challenging -- there is a scary section in an orange plaque of rock that is very difficult to protect.  From here, step left and continue up and through the massive roof.  Considering Gunks grades, I found this roof to be quite reasonable at 5.10c.  The pitch stops at the GT Ledge. 

  The second pitch continues up a left-facing overhanging corner system, but loose rock and lackluster climbing detract from its quality.

CCK Direct is such a classic line that Williams lists it as a separate climb in his Trapps guidebook, so we'll list it separately here too. 

  P1: Climb the short corner and angle up right to a left-facing corner.  Climb the corner to a roof,  then move left and climb a crack to the GT Ledge.  Belay at a big oak tree with rap slings.  5.6, 120'. 

  Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Erect Direction, a crack system on the left wall of Updraft, and traverse right to the oak tree.  5.8, 120'. 

  P2:  Climb up directly behind the oak tree to a ledge and roof. Get pro in a horizontal, traverse right (either high or low), and make a tough mantle move past the overhang to a stance (5.8 PG-R). Climb up left-facing flakes, and continue straight up through tiered overhangs (small cams, some reachy moves) to the CCK crack. Follow the crack to the small roof at the top.  When you see the pin leading right, go straight up over a small bulge to an alcove beneath the roof. From here, work left about 10' to the edge of the roof and go up a short handcrack (crux) to the top for a spectacular finish. 5.9 PG-R, 120'. 

  Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch. Walk down the notch to a bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down. Alternatively, head south: three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Feast of Fools begins near the same corner and roof system of Nurse's Aid and Hans' Puss.

 P1 (5.10b, 75'): Begin just right of the start of Hans' Puss (the rightmost, steepest corner). Climb this ever-steepening corner system until you reach the first of several roofs. Pull this roof and step left to a rest. Pull the second roof into an overhung corner protected by the lone remaining fixed pin. Creative stemming and reaches will get you to easier terrain (joining with Hans' Puss here) which is followed around the corner of the buttress to the right and belay at two bolts. A great pitch.

 P2 (5.10a, 70'): The crux section (a few moves of 9++) is cool. Head up off the belay to the small roof band above. Breach the roof with fingerlocks into a narrow, left-facing corner. Belay at an oak tree on the GT ledge.

This is a delightful 5.6, almost as nice as Madame G's or High E. The crux is as exciting as any 5.6 in the Gunks.

 The first pitch is easy to locate: Use the same access trail as for CCK, just past the Andrew boulder. At the top of the access trail you'll see an obvious crack/corner system leading straight up. This is about 35' left of the huge Erect Direction corner.

 P1: Climb up the face just right of an overhang and head for an obvious anchor on some small trees. Then follow the corner up to a bolted belay at the GT Ledge. 5.5, 130'. Alternatively, you can start by climbing the crack behind the flake to the left, at 5.7+R, then continuing up the left-facing corner.

 P2: Move right on the GT Ledge about 40' (this is the same as the start of the 2nd pitch of Erect Direction) and climb up, diagonaling left, towards a large roof. Once you reach the base of the overhang, look for a fixed pin to the left and place a nut or two to back it up. Now, the crux: cower left, down and around the corner to a stance. This is all balance - no big jugs to save your ass until it's over. Then up through a nice finger crack to the final corner (easier on the right-hand wall) and the top. 5.6, 100'.

 If your second falls at the crux, lowering to the GT Ledge may be your only way to get back onto the rock.

 Descent: there is a bolted rappel line fairly close to the south, starting with a fixed cable then rappels from bolted anchors, over No Glow, which will get you to the ground with a single rope.

A great and underrated route. The last pitch will not disappoint.

 P1- An excellent pitch of 5.7. The first third, up to the right-facing arc, is delicate and a bit run-out, with a balancy 5.7 crux move or two around the arc.  Of note, you can protect a ground-fall with micro-cams, small nuts, or small tricams. Above the arc, you'll find easy 5.7 face climbing that's very well protected. Make a nice tree belay at the GT ledge.

 P2- Walk left 40 feet to the right side of the block. Climb up this and diagonal right across the face. Up to the left-facing corner at the roof. Hand traverse right to the face and go up for a belay below a small V-notch.

 P3- A bit of everything. Climb through the notch immediately into the nice, strenuous crack. After a short stance, climb up to a thin fingertip horizontal. From here, make the wild traverse out along the crack to the edge of an overhang. Crank through these to the trees. What a pitch!

1. Climb up the face to a grassy ledge. Go left around the boulders then follow the cleanest section of rock straight up to the GT ledge. 5.4, 150.

 2. Look for a multi-forked tree that is about 10 feet left or so of a short, right-facing corner and about 80-100 feet right of the big Updraft corner. Climb the face (there is a short vertical crack) to an indistinct notch; the face below the notch can't be missed as the crack is obvious and there is a thin layer of dried bird shit on the face. (Not too bad, but your tastes may differ) After the notch go up 10 feet or so, drift right a bit and then back up and left to a prominent, well-chalked horizontal Use this horizontal to move over the bulge (crux), then traverse left and up for about 25 feet to an obvious V notch. After the notch, the top is not too far.

 The first 40 feet or so of Pitch 1 is a bit dirty and indistinct, but the face climbing after that, up to the GT ledge, is fun.

 The second pitch doesn't follow a line. But the moves are nice, the protection is good, there are some minor route finding challenges that increase the fun factor - and I've rarely seen anyone on it. The guidebook mentions a piton at the crux, but it is no longer there.

 Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' right.

This is a sleeper route in the Trapps! If you climb the grade, you should definitely get on it. The rock is super high quality the whole way, it is however, a bit dirty right now because it probably hasn't been climbed in decades. with a little travel it will clean up nicely.

 P1: Start 15 right of Last Will Be First, and climb a low angled rock section up toward a maple tree on a ledge. Follow a shallow left-facing corner system to a vertical face. Wander up the vertical face, following the path of least resistance, aiming for a white, two-foot high, right facing corner under a long roof. At the corner below the roof, get some amazing gear and head up right into the crux section, which involves climbing over the roof, and traversing about 6 feet right on small crimps and a sloper, towards a 2 foot high right-facing flake. Once at the flake, you climb pretty much straight up towards the left side of the orange roofs, step a little left and then join Last Will Be First for the last ten feet to the GT ledge.

 P2: Climb up to a pointed block about ten feet up, then follow left-facing corners up towards a small roof. Pull this roof and head straight up towards the big roof (optional #4 BD cam). Then head up and left towards the rap station on top.

 Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' left.

A good line with some do-not-fall 5.11 climbing. Climb over a small overlap past a poor pin, aiming toward a shallow corner and another pin. The climbing to this point is moderate and the pins can be backed up with good gear.  Work up the shallow corner into a left-facing corner capped by a roof.  Protection is available below the roof, but it takes care to place correctly. Pull the roof, continue up and right to a lichen covered rock, and finish up and left to the trees.

Ask any climber what distinguishes the Gunks from other areas and the first thing they'll say is "the roofs!" That, or "the sandbags!" but you should look at the description of Coexistence for more info on that.

 Erect Direction is a roof climb -- and one of my favorites at the Gunks -- right up there with The Yellow Wall, Carbs and Caffeine, and Fat City Direct.

 The Erect Direction access trail is about 15 minutes walking from the Uberfall, and 10 minutes from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with problems/chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder.

 At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. Erect Direction starts at a hand crack on the left wall of this corner, about 20' left of the start of CCK.

 P1 (5.8, 80'): Climb the nice, varied hand crack to the GT Ledge. This is a good solid 5.8 pitch on its own.

 P2 (5.10c, 70'): Above you (you may need to move the belay to the left) is a massive roof system. Climb up juggy terrain to some powerful moves up a vague right-facing corner (5.10c, crux) to a cramped stance under a large roof. A few underclings to the right lead up into the massive, obvious right-facing corner with a bomber 0.75 Camalot. At the top of this corner, and below the biggest series of roofs, a cramped hanging belay is available, but I recommend running the pitch into the next one - this will require extensive backcleaning and lots of runners however.

 P3 (5.10a, 60'): This is the crazy pitch on the route - make sure you get to lead this! Trend left off of the belay via some finger tip buckets, then reach back over your head to a jug at the lip. Begin working your way up a series of outrageous roofs with jugs galore. Plenty of opportunity for cutting your feet loose, heel-hooking, and hanging from gear. The roofs can be tackled more or less directly, but the easiest path is to traverse slightly left along the lip of the first roof, then back right on the second roof. A short corner with thin gear leads to the top of the wall.

 Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch, and scramble down the notch to the bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down. Or, to the left/south, three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

My main reason for posting this route is that I've found myself standing below it on two separate occasions when I was looking for Last Will be First.

 The first time I climbed it, and only realized I was on something else 20 feet or so above the first roof. The second time, two other people who had previously climbed Last Will be First looked up and agreed we were at the start -- fortunately, I realized we were below Lost and Found and moved us right, finally getting a chance to lead Last Will be First.

 P1: Climb the 4-foot-high left-facing corner and crack, aiming for the right side of a 15-foot-long overhang. Step up and right around the overhang before traversing back left 10 feet or so. Climb straight up the face through a bulging section to the GT Ledge. 5.6 PG, 150 feet.

 Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' right.

1. From the GT ledge, climb about halfway up the left side of the large pinnacle. Go up and left until you can easily traverse left 25 or 30 feet under the ceiling to a short, blocky, right-facing corner. Go over the roof near the corner, then trend right, passing some white rock, to a belay under a large roof. 5.8 

  2. Traverse straight left about 20 feet, go up a bit, then take the obvious hand traverse left under a roof to a V notch in the ceiling. (The acute shape of the notch makes it easy to recognize) Climb up through the notch (crux). Finish straight up. 

  Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Another classic route on a great section of the cliff.

 The first pitch of Annie Oh! is a bit runout; the second pitch is mega-classic, steep, exciting face.

 People often skip the first pitch of Annie Oh!, climbing the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to the GT Ledge, and then climbing the second pitch of Annie Oh! from there. Done this way, the route becomes a four-star classic.

 The Annie Oh! access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

 At the cliff, spot a huge left-facing corner on the right; this is Easy Verschneidung (Easy V). Annie Oh! starts about 60' left of Easy V and 20' left of Limelight. This is about 15' right of a large block leaning against the wall (Three Doves).

 P1: Climb 40' up a runout slab (5.4 R) to a left-facing corner capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang, continue up past the right side of a scary block, and angle back left past dirty ledges to the obvious ledge. Belay at any of several big trees. 5.8, 100'.

 P1 (variations): Climb the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to get to the same ledge. (Recommended).

 P2: Start by scrambling up some left-facing flakes. The wall steepens here and the climbing gets harder. Climb up the face, following the path of least resistance, traversing right under a shallow overhang, where the scary loose block discussed below used to be (it fell in Nov. 2012). Continue up the bright white face above, with several thin 5.8 moves. At the final roof, either exit right onto Limelight, or move left to a groove near the top of the wall. Make an awkward exit move up the groove to a bolt anchor at the top. 5.8+, 100'.

 Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT Ledge (one 60m rope, but watch the ends). Downclimb to the big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.

Limelight is another mega-classic on this great wall, along with Three Doves, Arrow, and Annie Oh!. Limelight is the easiest, so it may be the best choice for your first climb in this area.

 The Limelight access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

 At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) on the right. Limelight starts about 40' left of Easy V and 20' left of Arrow.

 Scramble up 15' to a ledge below a groove. Directly above you'll see huge right-leaning flakes that are 50' up the wall.

 P1: Climb up the groove and face to the huge flakes. Follow the flakes up and right to the GT Ledge. 5.6 and a bit PG, 80'.

 P2: Climb up more or less right above the first pitch, to a ledge. Continue up easy rock aiming for a left-facing corner. Pass a small overhang and make a dicey step left into a thin, left-facing flake at the start of the corner. Climb up the corner and traverse left under a roof (crux). Continue up a crack to a ledge, and go left to a bolt anchor. 5.7, 100'.

 Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge (stretches a 60m rope - watch the ends). Downclimb to a big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.

The first pitch wanders up the face left of Modern Times.  This pitch is seldom climbed; The Last Will Be First is a good alternative path to the GT ledge. 

  The second pitch is one of the "Waiting for High Exposure" alternatives.  It is quite good, with an excellent crux.  Climb into a major corner below the Jim's Gem tree (large pine lower than the others, about 100' left of High Exposure).  The crux is moving right under the small roofs.

P1 is as described in the book: look for the obvious vertical slot for a yellow Alien.  Then it's pretty much up the clean-looking swath of rock to the GT Ledge.  The opening moves may well be 5.7 and if you're not 6' 6" tall, getting the key cam in that slot will be a challenge.  Stick-clip anyone?

The first pitch of Easy V is beautiful, easy climbing; it's a new favorite of mine for beginner climbers.  The holds are generally buckets, and the feet are always there.  There's an obvious crux half-way up, but with a little thought a beginner would have no problem.  The belay anchor is best built off to the climber's right, even though the route comes up to the climber's left.  There's a bolted rappel station climber's far left; a 60m rope will bring you back to some ledges above the pathway, with an easy scramble down. 

  P1: Go up right and follow the huge corner to the GT Ledge.  Observe the fixed ring piton left by the first ascent party (it's now over 60 years old). 

  P2 involves walking about 60 feet to the right along the GT Ledge. P3 begins after you round a corner on the GT ledge in a small grove of pine trees. Look for an off-width with a small roof overhead. 

  P3 is a frikken joke at 5.3.  Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them.  It's an interesting sequence, and the two cruxes are protected, but I'd give the moves at least 5.5 due to the awkwardness.

The trick here is that P1 is quite interesting and only 5.8. P2 has the 5.9+ climbing, but many folks rap after P1 or finish on another climb.

 P1 - Climb the left-facing flakes, then up the nose to some more flakes. Climb the second set of flakes to a nice ledge below some overhangs and a short, orange left-facing corner. Climb the corner to the overhang (crux) and step left to the outside edge of the corner, then straight up on big holds to the GT ledge or climb partially up the corner, then go up and right to a different corner, then up right around the corner on big holds, bypassing the overhang on the face to its right.

 Rappel via the Arrow bolts.

Traverse of the Clods is among the most interesting and unusual routes in the Gunks.  Its thoughtful, balancy, exposed, not too strenuous, not R-ratedyet seldom climbed. 

  TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15 terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew meets the GT ledge.  The final pitch of Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace. 

  The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35 to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it.  This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out. 

  Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35.  A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner.  If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, youve gone too far. 

  The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above.  If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone. 

  To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal.  Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right.  When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux. 

  After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.

CCK is another Gunks ultra-classic.  The exposed, exciting third pitch is one of the most memorable you'll ever do at the grade. 

  P1: Climb the short corner and angle up right (var) to a left-facing corner.  Climb the corner to a roof,  then move left and climb a crack to the GT Ledge.  Belay at a big oak tree with rap slings.  5.6 PG, 120'. 

 var: Rather than moving right to the corner, climb straight up the face. Gear in horizontals provide good pro, and there are very fun technical face moves to be done. At the end of the face you step right and then ascend the final crack that takes you to the GT ledge. 5.7/8 G 

  You can also climb the enjoyable first 5.8 pitch of Erect Direction, a crack system on the left wall of Updraft, to get to the GT ledge. 

There are several options for the second pitch, with varying degrees of difficulty and protection.

  P2, option 1: Take the Updraft corner to a belay ledge in the corner. Safe at PG and easy at < 5.5.   

  P2, option 2: From the oak tree rap/belay station, walk climber's right on the GT for about 20' to a pine tree.  Climb past a short left-facing corner, with a thin crack to a stance at the overhang. Step right and climb past bulging rock (crux) to a stance. From here, diagonal up left to the belay ledge.  This way is what Williams describes; you circumvent the crux overhang/notch of the third choice below, starting to the right and traversing left when you're above it. 5.7+ PG-R 

  P2, option 3: From the oak tree rap/belay station, climb straight up the rock directly behind the tree until it's obvious to traverse right under the overhang.  Traverse either high or low (awkward either way) about 8' right, make a difficult mantle past a bulge, then trend left up to the belay.  Protecting the second is difficult to do well here. This is the start of CCK Direct's second pitch, at 5.8+ PG-R.  

  Note: CCK Direct (5.9) continues straight up above the left-facing flakes and exits left out the roof. 

  P3, the money pitch: Make sure the belayer has a camera; this is one of the best photo-ops in the Gunks!  Step down and make an exposed traverse to the right on small edges.  Move up to a pin and make a big step right to a vertical flake and hand crack.  Layback and jam up to a roof (crux), clip another fixed pin, and traverse right under the roof to a big ledge.  5.7+, 50'. 

  Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch, and scramble down the notch to the bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First.  3 rappels with one rope get you back down.  Alternatively, head south: three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

So there you are at the Arrow wall and all of the classics are occupied.  What to do?  Try Red Pillar. 

  P1: Climb an easy right-facing, left-leaning corner / gully just left of Three Doves.  From the ledge on top, climb up clean rock to steeper ground.  Place gear and work up and left, past an old pin, and up to the GT Ledge.  Definitely on the stiff side of 5.5, 100'. 

  P2: From the GT Ledge, step right about 10' and look for an obvious right-facing corner.  Either climb straight up to it, or climb the face to the right then head back to the corner.  Head up the corner and cracks, then step left onto the arete, aiming to pass the overhang at the notch.  A fun, well-protected slot takes you to the top.  5.5, 100'. 

  Descend via Arrow or Three Doves rappels.

Modern Times pulls a pretty wild roof on the second pitch - hard to believe it's only 5.8+.

 Use the High Exposure access trail to reach Modern Times.

 Start 30' left of High Exposure below a slabby left-facing corner.

 P1 (5.7, 150'): Climb the corner and angle right to a dirt ledge. Climb up and a bit left and pass an overhang (crux) to the GT ledge.

 P2 (5.8+, 100'): Go 20' left and climb to the top of a huge flake. Traverse right to a notch in the roof at the top of the wall (there's a small tree growing horizontally out of the roof). Pull the roof (crux), continue up right past more overhangs, and traverse right to a belay on a small ledge.

 Bring up your partner, then scramble to the top.

 Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' left, or the High E bolted rappel line to climbers' right.

I'm focusing on only P2 of this climb as the Williams guide doesn't recommend P1.  This is a good option if the other classics on Arrow wall are occupied or you're looking for a new challenge up there.  Be solid at the grade and comfortable on borderline R terrain at 5.6/7; the crux is on good gear. 

  (P1 starts by the Red Pillar block and works up the right side of the pillar and then the steep white face above past small overhangs and a small right-facing corner.  Not recommended.  Ascend to the GT ledge another way!) 

  From the start on the GT ledge, move up past a few blocks (possible gear) to gain the face and a cam placement.  Move up the slab on 5.6/5.7 terrain that is PG13/R and gain a stance at your next placement.  Make fun, balancey moves to continue up and move into the small alcove/pod stance.  Plug some good gear here (small nut, green C3) then work up the steep slabby face (crux...reachy) to easier terrain and the top.  Walk back and make an anchor on a tree. 

  Descend via the Arrow or Annie Oh! bolt lines to the north (climbers' right).

P1, 5.9: Start at the base of the Andrew corner. Climb up of the left wall of the Andrew corner, then head left around the arete and up to the GT ledge. 

  P2, 5.11-: Go up the face right of the Silhouette corner to a roof. Move left over a small ceiling by a thin crack to the base of the final corner capped by the large roof. Get a piece in the corner and move up into it (crux), then exit out left and up to tree belay.

1. Move up into the flaring, right-facing corner. Climb out left (crux, this can be done at several spots) to an obvious, right-facing flake, then go up and left to a small ledge. Move right a bit then go straight to the GT ledge. 5.7, 150 feet.

 2. Walk right until you are at the bolted rap station. Go up to a shallow, left-facing corner that leads to a roof at 30 feet. Once past this, drift up and left to a very large flake. Belay behind this flake. 5.6, 70 feet.

 3. Move to the end of the ledge and climb a crack in the left wall of the corner to a small grassy ledge. Several more moves and you're on top. 5.8, 40 feet.

 The first pitch is a very reasonable and nice 5.7 and worth doing by itself.

 Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' right.

P1 Climb the right face of the corner to the GT ledge. 5.3PG, 100 ft. 

  P2 Walk right about 50 feet to large oak tree, just below and to the left of a flaky right facing corner. 

  P3 Climb the short face to big ledge. Climb the flaky right facing corner to overhang; traverse right about 15 feet to brown groove, follow the groove, and go right into corner. Traverse right about 20 feet to flaky left facing corner. Climb the corner to a small ledge, and move up left then right to a small belay ledge.  5.4, 90 ft. 

  P4 Move up to big horizontal, traverse right and up to the top. 5.2, 40 ft. 

  Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

1. Climb the short, right-facing corner to its top. Traverse out left about 10 feet on a small ledge, then climb the face (this can be done in several places and there is no very obvious line) for 20 feet or so. Diagonal up and right until near the arete and below the roof. After the roof, go up and left to the base of an obvious crack. Climb the crack (crux) and belay on the GT ledge. 5.7+, 130 feet.  

  2. Scramble up to a large ledge. Climb up and left and out onto the face. Go up past a bulge, then go left again to the top. 5.7-, 100 feet. 

A beautiful line with thoughtful movement; a must-do for the grade! 

  Start same as P2 of Updraft/CCK  (on the GT ledge), but head left towards a thin crack, which you'll follow to a no-hands stance in the sentry box.  Stem your way out of the box and exit onto the steep face.  Climb the pumpy face to a #2 horizontal, then move left towards the arete and easier ground.. Be careful mantling into the stem box, there might be a suspect flake or two. The top could use a scrubbing, but who really cares!

This is one of those destination climbs at the Gunks (sometimes listed as The Arrow in older sources). There are also other classic moderates in the same area (Three Doves, Annie Oh!, and Limelight).  A bit of discussion on the history of Arrow hereAt the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) on the right; scramble up on ledges about 20' left of Easy V to start.P1: Follow face and crack systems up and slightly left to a bolted belay at the ledge system under a roof. A bit runout towards the top. 5.6, 100'.P2: Angle left through the notch in the roof. After a few hard tugs, you'll be below a beautiful white slab. Follow this slab, passing 2 bolts on the way to a final headwall. The crux reach is protected by a final bolt. 5.8, 100'. Bolts on this pitch were replaced in 2015 (see comment).Rap twice with a single 60M rope from bolt anchors at the GT ledge and mid-cliff ledge.

Hans' Puss starts just to the left of Feast of Fools, just right and downhill from the Arrow wall.

 Pitch one climbs the face/corner/flake system, until an easy traverse above Feast of Fools leads to the shared bolt anchor. 5.7.

 Pitch two traverses right, following the path of least resistance until you can move up, wander a bit, and finally pull a couple of exposed 5.7 moves to get to the GT ledge.

 Pitch three begins with a short but easy off-width, then follows an obvious corner to a slightly tricky hand traverse to the finish. Pretty nice for 5.5.

 From the top, rappel from the Arrow or Three Doves bolts.

This route is not too often climbed because the first pitch is right in the Arrow rap line, but if you happen to find a break in the traffic, a quick run on pitch one (5.8, 100 ft to GT ledge) is worth the trip.  The other pitches are basically contrived squeeze jobs to stay off the arrow line (or they are directly on the Arrow line, like p2).  Pitch three (5.9, 80 ft.) is practically within arm's reach of arrow (5-10 feet left), and IMHO provides Dick William's commentary on the old Arrow right or left finish controversy. 

  Pitch 1 (100 feet, 5.8):  The gray Dick states that it shares a start with Easy V.  If leading, I would recommend starting here as the gear is much better.  If on TR, it's more difficult and fun to start left of the Easy V start, but right of the start of Arrow.  A few feet right of the little tree growing out of the ledges that serve as the standard Arrow start will put you in the right place.  This pitch is nice face climbing with some horizontal ridges and cracks.  Grey Dick ends the pitch at the top of Easy V, but I recommend keeping the line straight to maintain the difficulty.  Once again, I believe DW's suggestion will give you better gear options.  Belay from the GT ledge either way. 

  Pitch 2 (30 feet, 5.7):  Walk left on the GT ledge until you arrive at the start of Arrow's second pitch.  Make your way, angling right, through the overhangs.  The grey Dick has you stopping to belay once the overhangs are over.  If you have a new second, this might not be a bad idea.  Otherwise, it's much easier to link p2 and p3. 

  Pitch 3 (70 feet, 5.9):  The start is more or less the same as the Arrow line after the overhangs.  You can force yourself slightly left, but some of the moves overlap, in my opinion.  For the crux moves, stay left.  I think this is where the difference in Dick William's suggested ratings come from.  A lot of climbers feel the left side finish is harder than the right side finish on Arrow.  Rating this 5.9 over Arrow's 5.8 supports that. 

  Descent: Arrow rappel

Exciting and improbable! This line climbs the blank face to the right of the CCK crack finish.  

  From the GT Ledge at the second pitch of CCK, climb up fairly moderate terrain into a small right-facing corner, right of the CCK Direct line. Exit the corner (5.10, with some spaced gear) up and left to a stance at a deep horizontal. Place your last pieces and step right towards the huge prow, then up the face on very small holds. 

  This route was originally 5.11c in the Williams guide, but it feels much harder, rivaling many Gunks 5.12 lines. There are rumors of broken holds, but nothing confirmed.

Good climbing with a nice crux and heady section up to it, that seems to always be free! 

  P1- Climb the short corner to the mini ledge.  Step left until directly below a shallow right-facing corner under the roof.  Climb this balancy section at 5.7R straight up the the little corner.  Surmount the overhang and head slightly right up to a lichened, bulging face, left of the obvious crack. 

1. Climb pretty much straight up the face 20 feet left of Moonlight to the GT ledge. 5.6, 130 feet.

 2. Follow Moonlight to the start of its traverse. Go up and slightly left (crux) to the base of a short open book with clean, white rock. Go straight left around the corner and reconnect with Moonlight. 5.10a, 100 feet.

 Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Great face climbing and surprisingly pumpy. A must do!

 P1- Climb the wide crack to the ledge. Step right and climb the thin fault and face above to the small roof utilizing small, rounded face holds. Once here, go left to the Feast of Fools bolt anchors. Most rap here.

 P2- Climb up straight up to the obvious overhang and pull it. Then head up to the next, step left and up to the GT. Rap at Arrow, which is to climbers' left.

Russ Clune and Jordan Mill freed the roof-traverse crux at 13b in 1993, 30 years after Art Gran and Phil Jacobus aided it with pitons.  Much of the gear is still fixed, or at least it was when I got on it in 2004.*  It is also recommended as a good route for practicing clean aid, because it's safe but wildly exposed -- lots of hang time.   

  That is how I went up it, as a night-time rope solo.  Finding the old fixed pieces by headlamp, often with antique 'biners hanging off them, felt like a treasure hunt.  Rather than trying to clean it by rappelling and/or down-climbing, I fixed the middle of my rope (70m) at the top, descended the free end, and followed the GTL back to my ground anchor (a tree).  Then I partly jugged and partly re-climbed the route, cleaning as I went, and rapped Arrow. 

  P1: From the GT ledge, climb the face just right of the hollow right-facing corner above P1 of Andrew, or climb inside the corner/chimney until you can traverse out and up left to the first roof section.  Look for fixed gear in the crack under the huge roof looming above.  Follow that crack left about 25 feet, then switch to a diagonal crack that exits the roof and goes into a small right-facing corner.  Stop here to set up a hanging belay (80 feet, 5.13b G, maybe 5.6 R at the start). 

  P2: Go left to another right-facing corner, pull an overhang moving right, and step up to the top (25 feet, 5.9 PG). 

  (*YMMV of course.)

This is Gunks must-do, especially for climbers breaking into the grade (but see comments below - Admin.).

 P1: The number of variations you can climb to the GT are endless, but this one is well worth doing. Start 30' left of Moonlight. Climb straight up and past a small right-facing flake to some face holds. Move a bit right on the face to hit the belay tree (gear is thin here so watch your step). 5.8, 160'.

 P2: Walk right 10' and climb the orange face to a pocket, then straight up past a small overhang to a stance. Diagonal up and left (5.7, PG-R) to a bolt with a good stance, traverse left into the notch at a fixed pin in the roof. Pull the roof on strenuous holds and belay below the right-facing corner. 5.9, 50'.

 Use long runners if you combine the next pitch:

 P3: Move up the obvious corner to the overhang and step right, 5.9, 40'.

 Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined if you are careful about rope drag in the beginning.

 Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

A highly under-rated route, The Last Will Be First is one of my favorite 5.6's in the Gunks, and an excellent test-piece for the 5.6 leader. Pitch 1 features great, sustained, thoughtful face climbing above gear on clean rock, and pitch 2 has a fun overhang.

 The route is a short ways left of High Exposure. The start is on an easy, low-angle face with some grassy ledges about 10-15 feet up - look for a vertical crack about 30-40 feet above.

 P1: Climb up the easy lower rock to a crack. Follow the steepening crack to its top, then continue up and right across the clean face to an overhang below a left-facing corner. Pull the overhang and climb the corner to its top, where it is capped by another overhang. Escape right and continue up to a small ledge with the stump of a dead tree. Step right and climb easier rock to the GT ledge. 5.6 PG, 160 feet.

 P2: Walk left about 20 feet to the first small left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a horizontal, then diagonal up and left to the notch in the overhang. Make some fun moves to pull to overhang, then continue up the slightly dirty corner about 10 feet before diagonaling up and right on easy, broken rock to the top. A worthwhile pitch. 5.6 PG, 70 feet.

 Descent: Rappel from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge (your ropes land directly at the start of P2, so be sure to call before you throw them). On the GT ledge, another bolt anchor appears to climber's left, from which two 60m ropes will get you to the ground, or a single rope will get you to a third bolted rap station. This a popular area of the cliff, so watch where you throw your ropes.

 From the clifftop (and other routes), you'll need to scramble down a bit to reach the bolts. Look for the notch where the climb finishes.

The roof at the top of Three Doves extends left, smooth and impenetrable, except for one big, slanting cleft.  If you stare at this and imagine that an irreversible high step up into a committing lieback can get you through this break in the roof, you might be right.  But to get there, you will first need to make a few face moves that are somewhat thinner and less well protected than those at the crux of Three Doves. 

  Climb the face past a grassy horizontal and right of a tall block that sits on a ledge.  Trend right past an overhang and belay at the tree (40'), or sling it and continue upward past a smaller tree.  From this second tree, climb straight up to a small crack and then to the cleft in the roof.  There is more than one way to pull through the overhang.  Another move or two and you are on top.

This line is stellar and independent of Three Vultures and Amber Waves of Pain. It is a very direct line as far as Gunks routes go. 

  Scramble off the GT ledge and run it out as high as you feel comfortable to avoid rope drag later on.  Grovel your way up the wide crack to a stance under the roof. Crank over the roof onto spectacular rock and work out the hard 5.10 roof moves. Plug a few pieces and finesse your way on to the most excellent and exposed arete. Work your way back left into the final 5.9ish roof/corner and romp up to the top of the cliff!

An amazing route with exciting climbing on great rock.  The crux features a very cool sequence.

 Start up P2 of Moonlight for a few feet, then continue straight up toward a short open book capped by a roof.  Clip some fixed gear (an equalized pin and nut), crank the roof, and exit on to the slab. Tiptoe up the slab and head left toward another roof.  Pull over and finish up a tight corner.

From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.

 Description with help from Pawel: Aim towards a deeply notched overhang that is over a steep, reddish face. Start by working up through some steep face moves. Above the face, move past the first overhang (crux) to a good stance. After this, pass the next overhang by moving right, up in to the notch, over, and back left into the open book to the top.

 In summary: it's a steep pumpy then thin face, and two overhangs with really good rests in between.

 Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

P1: Move past a difficult boulder problem (crux) to get to a thin crack about 7 feet above the ground. Follow the crack to a bulge, and then climb the easy face above to the GT ledge. (5.9+, 100 ft.)

 P2: Continue straight up to a ledge and climb a pillar (V1, V2) to the base of a flaring crack. Climb the crack to the ceiling and then hand traverse ~15' right to a small ledge with a bush. (5.9-, 110 ft.) Belay from here to avoid a rope drag.

 - V1 Climb the overhang left of the crack to join V3. 5.10 PG. FA: John Myers, Mike Freeman, 1980. - V2 Move out right from the arch then angle left across the wall to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Romano, 1970s. - V3 From the top of the crack, climb a roof to the foot of an arch. Swing out left, then on to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Perch, John Bragg, 1970s.

 P3: Climb an obvious corner up to an anchor (5.8, not recommended). Also see comments below for better options.

 Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

A beautiful three-star route next to Annie Oh!, Limelight, and Arrow.

 P1: 80 feet of classic climbing. The guide says to start on either side of large block; the right side seems easier. Wander up the face above, passing one roof by a notch on its left then moving right under the next small roof. Make a few cruxy moves up the face above, then follow low angle climbing back left to the belay ledge. Use one of several big trees to belay.

 P2: 80'. More great climbing! From the tree, follow the path of least resistance to a ledge with a smaller tree ~40 feet up and left. There's not much pro if you go straight up (but it's more fun!); otherwise, head right and then back left for easier terrain and better pro. You'll find a nice move just below a pin, then a couple of thin moves after the pin to a nice rest, under the roof. Traverse right , then up the diagonal crack/notch to the chain anchor. This pitch wanders a lot - beware of rope drag!

 The 2nd pitch has some great moves -- it's one of the nicest pitches at the Gunks.

 Rappel: Two 60m ropes get you within a few feet of the ground (with stretch - watch the ends). Alternatively, a single rap brings you down to the first pitch tree, and will keep you out of the way of other climbers.

This is a variation to Andrew's last pitch, off of the GT Ledge.

 Starting just right of the major Twilight Zone corner, climb the easy face to a flaky right-facing corner to the overhang, then traverse right and up a groove to a ledge and left-facing flake. Take the flake to the overhang above, traverse left across a white face, and up into the V-notch (crux). Climb past the overhang to the top.

 Rappel: head to climber's right. Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

This climbs the steep wall right of Andrew and left of Erect Direction.

 P1 (description by Anthony Baraff): The cliff-side trail is near a local low near the start of the climb. Look up for a distinctive right-facing flake in the overhang 40 feet up, and start 10 feet to the right at a shallow left-facing ramp below blocks 20 feet up. Climb the ramp up to the blocks, then follow the path of least resistance up to the overhang at the flake; climb up through the overhang before continuing up and left to the bolted belay/rap-station at the GT ledge.

 There are many possible alternate routes up in the 20 foot-wide band of cliff above the start and below the belay station, but I think this description more or less matches the guide and keeps the difficulty at or below 5.5 G/PG.

 Alternatives in the area for P1 include Three Vultures, Moonlight, Erect Direction, and even Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK).

 Pitch 2: Look for an arching roof about 30' above the GT Ledge. Climb up to the right side of this arch and then move right to a clean, white wall and cracks leading up through an exciting roof (crux). Definitely harder for short people. 5.9, 120'.

 Descent: Rappel this route in 3 single-60m rappels. The first rappel from the top, which starts from a cable around two trees, is a rope-stretcher (watch your ends!). At the GT, find a bolt station, and then another pair of bolts mid-cliff height at a stance.

last area: Middle Earth to V3 | next area: High E

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK