This is a traverse that starts just to the left of Flake Lunge. Work left to right and then back again.

Lip Traverse

Left Brain

Easy O

Midbrain

Roof's way

Right Brain

Flake lunge

This climb is to the immediate right of Easy O. It will lead you to the top of the ridge and is only slightly more difficult than Easy O.

This was likely done decades ago, but I'm adding it here, because it's too good to be passed up! PLEASE, PLEASE let me know if anyone has any existing info on it...calling this area the Brain Boulder (actually just an outcropping of the cliff line, à la Ship's Prow) because of the crazy twisting rock on the underside of the roof.

Beta

: start on a jug at the base of the arete using the ramp for your feet. Slap right to an incut crimp, hand-heel match, and rock up to a wonderful left crimp. Bump your right hand, look for that right kneebar, rest, and fumble blindly for some nice crimps above the roof. Make one more long reach, and you're there...just keep it together during the tall topout! WHERE ELSE CAN YOU FIND HEEL HOOKS & KNEEBARS LIKE THIS ON A V3?!? GET ON IT!!...also no crowds :)

Video

:

https://youtu.be/Q4aIsCPYJFA

.

This is a crack that leads to the top of the ridge and is directly to the left of the flake lunge.

This was likely done decades ago, but I'm adding it here, because it's too good to be passed up! PLEASE, PLEASE let me know if anyone has any existing info on it...calling this area the Brain Boulder (actually just an outcropping of the cliff line, à la Ship's Prow) because of the crazy twisting rock on the underside of the roof.

Beta

: this is the middle line that goes straight up the overhanging dihedral. Start on obvious jugs, make a left hand move to a sloppy pinch, and walk your feet above your head to place a bomber left kneebar. Slap your way up the dihedral (tread lightly on the hollow sounding right crimp) adjusting your kneebar as needed until you can pinch the right arete and find crimps to your left. One more long reach and you're there...just keep it together during the tall topout! I'm just gonna say it: THIS MIGHT BE THE FINEST KNEEBAR AROUND ALL OF HORSETOOTH!! GET ON IT!

Videos

:

Tucker on the send (didn't catch the beginning of the climb):

https://youtu.be/2MwRtMZ0ofk

.

Josh nearly holding the swing at the top:

https://youtu.be/9y5jKGrQOeM

.

This was likely done decades ago, but I'm adding it here, because it's too good to be passed up! PLEASE, PLEASE let me know if anyone has any existing info on it...calling this area the Brain Boulder (actually just an outcropping of the cliff line, à la Ship's Prow) because of the crazy twisting rock on the underside of the roof.

Beta

: scramble up the ramp/wall to the right, and find the jug at the base of the middle prow. From here, fire straight up to some crimps at the lip of the roof. Traverse right on crimps, completely abandoning the nice, flat landing and opting for a more, say,

shittier

landing (read: chossy rock on a downhill and horribly sharp brambles). Find some juggy feet underneath you to continue the traverse, and then mantel onto the face...good job!

This problem is about 50 feet South of the parking lot on the ridge. It is a large roof with chalk all over it. There is a flake down low that you undercling as you then lunge for a big jug. From the jug match hands and pull three more moves to complete.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Land of the Overhangs