Risky Pass is a 110 foot, second pitch, sustained 5.10 with breath-taking position and still evolving rock quality.  When accessed via Orion (5.10a), and finished off with Skydive (5.10c), it's a spectacular three pitch bolted route. 

  It's named after the questionable play call that cost the Seahawks the Superbowl in 2015, and was originally ascended as a second pitch to Hawks Nest, a route named in honor of the Seahawks' winning Superbowl effort in 2014.

Risky Pass

Damage, Inc

White Satin

Snibble Tower

King Nothing

No Vacation

Orion

Evolution Theory

Leper Messiah

Higher Messiah

European Vacation

The Struggle Within

Lost in Space

The Good Ol' Days

Sky Dive

Master of Puppets

Sky Ridge

Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose

Season's Change

Lycra

Sky Chimney

Hawks Nest

Kevin’s Arete

Sustained .10- nubbins with a crux passing the second bolt. Starts up a 12 ft flake of so-so rock to get to the high quality upper wall. Clip the anchor at 85 feet and lower, or continue up and right to Risky Pass (5.10c). This can be broken up into a second pitch, or for full-value, go for the Orion Pass mega-pitch, 20 bolts and 165 feet! Belay at the top and make two rappels with a 60 meter rope.

"Bloody, but never cry submission Following our instinct not a trend Go against the grain until the end Fuck it all and fucking no regrets" -Metallica, "Damage, Inc"

 Quality rock with varied movement and two cruxes- one off bad underclings around bolt 4 and another around bolt 6 moving off a deep pocket.

Start just left of Asterisk Pass in a bolted Chimney. 

  Pitch 1:   Follow the Chimney clipping bolts until you gain the face (do not follow chimney) and continue up to a bolted anchor on a flat ledge. 

  Pitch 2:   Climb the corner to a traverse around a flake up to another bolted anchor. (or climb the bolted face to the left of the corner to the same anchor 10.c) 

  Pitch 3:   This is what you came for...   Climb the stunning dihedral above to a tricky move right at the top. 

A true Smith classic, really solid old school 5.9, a bit of rotten rock, small runouts and a little bit of aid. There are two different options for pitch 1.  

  P1 5.6 30' - This is the original party's line but not the best option. Climb up a left leaning ramp/gully to an old bolt belay.  

  P1 Alt. 5.9 90' - Climb a sport pitch starting in the same location as the original line. 7 or 8 clips get you to a two bolt belay.  

  P2 5.7R 70' - From either the original or alternative pitch 1 anchors, head up and right and enter the chimney/groove. Trash up this rotten delight plugging cams up to 8" wide where possible. Exit up a ramp trending right before it gets too steep and end at a large belay ledge with two new bolts.  

  P3 5.8 C1 60' - From the belay traverse the bolt ladder to the left on new bolts to and awkward exit move (nuts helpful) into some chossy stone. Head up left to a belay ledge with two bolts. 2nd should follow by aiding which would be easier than jugging.  

  P4 5.7 120' - Power over the bulge and follow the mostly solid left trending ramp to a 2 bolt anchor beneath the P5 roof.  

  P5 5.10a 140' - Move up the block and follow the crack thru the roof. Step around the corner and voila here is the 80' of corner crack. Starting as a slab corner it progressively gets steeper as one goes. The crack varies from hands to fists to tips and finishes with an awkward wide exit on to a ledge. Follow the easy way up for 30' to a 2 bolt belay.  

  P6 5.9 110' - Continue up a slab to a steep well protected step and corner. A short rising traverse to the right leads one into easier ground and to the summit where there are three bolted anchors.

Sport route that works as a higher quality and different approach to the ledge that Sky Chimney, White Satin, and Lycra start on.

This is a variation to European Vacation that climbs better rock in the middle of the tower.  Start with the Euro start or test your mettle with the Eye of the Beholder start, which can be linked into the second pitch.  

  P3: The topo in the guidebook is incorrect, this is a mixed pitch.  Head towards a bolt about 30 feet above the belay, it may be possible to place gear in the crack to the left, or a block can be slung.  After clipping the bolt head up to a second bolt just above the roof, placing gear to reach it.  From here to the top of the tower no trad gear is needed.  5.10b 

  P4:  Follow the bolts, backcleaning the second and extending what you can.  The crux is brief and hits at the two closely spaced bolts with an overhang above.  Continue up a slab covered in lichen to the 5th pitch belay anchor for Euro Vacation.

A spectacular 12 ft crack amongst a sea of epic choss.  

  P1:  pull committing moves on holds with the composition of cemented sand. Thankfully this pitch traverses away from the belayer .  Possibly the worst sport pitch in Smith. 10- choss 

  P2:  Much better climbing on good knobs.  This is the most sustained of the 5.10 pitches and after 12 bolts you reach the Perch which is a decent ledge to rest on.  5.10 

  P3:  look to the left for your first bolt. Good climbing on mostly positive chickenheads but not too memorable. Alternatively the pitch above your belay bolts also reaches the next belay. 5.10- 

  P4:  the business. After threatening all hikers below on the  choss before the first bolt, pull a fantastic roof crack requiring some beefcake moves and a possible heel hook or two. No more than 3 cams required (#.75 #2 C4 #2 metolius). The 5 inch mentioned in the guidebook will not help you on this pitch.  We thought this climbed like a softer version of Rio's crack in the Sads. 5.11+ 

  P5:  deceptively good stone leads to some of the worst rock of the route, ready to launch rockets at your belayer. At the final bolt mantle to the right NOT to the left.  5.10 choss 

  P6:  after moving around exfoliating rock climb up through good pockets and bad footholds as you watch the vultures circle below. 5.10 

  Pick a quiet day to do this one and bring a helmet.

A low boulder move to a high first bolt, then crux moves on either side of the last bolt. 

 "Time for lust, time for lies Time to kiss your life goodbye Bow to Leper Messiah" -Metallica, Leper Messiah

Higher Messiah is an extension or second pitch to the 5.10 base route, Leper Messiah.  It links into a single pitch from the ground, creating a 20 bolt, 165 ft. mega-pitch with the 5.11 crux near the top.  

Caution:  At mid-height it crosses a nearly unavoidable and mysteriously attached large block.  A two hour cleaning session with a crowbar produced the current, seemingly solid configuration (Oct. 2018).  Tread lightly. Geologic time includes now.  

Rock quality isn't great. But really great position and summit. As of June 7th 2014 it appears the anchors for the rappel route have been pulled. (Edit: apparently the anchors are there just a little tricky to find) 

  Suggestion: 

  Rack: Mixed to 4 inches  

  P1 10a 4 bolts, Jam past the first four bolts of "The Struggle Within" and step right to belay bolts beneath the second-pitch of "Smith Summit-East Wall."  

  P2 10c 8 bolts, Move up and right to join the second pitch arete of "Eye of the Beholder."  

  P3 10d, Naturally protected 5.7 climbing leads to a tricky, bolt protected move. Follow a widening crack to a hanging belay.  

  P4 10c, Jam the moderate 4 inch crack and veer right to a sport climbing finish past a bulge, belay on a comfortable ledge.  

  P5 5.9 4 bolts, Easy face climbing on imperfect rock leads to another anchor.  

  P6 10a 5 bolts, A bolted face gives way to an unavoidable dose of bad rock. Fortunately, the finish knobs are solid and fun.  

  P7 10d 7 bolts, The highlight of your European Vacation ascends great rock high on the finishing tower. At the arete, clip a bolt for your second and step down around the edge to a ledge. DO NOT attempt to rappel from this anchor!  

  P8 Step right to a bolted water streak and stem dubious rock to a much better finish. Belay from slack line bolts over the lip or go all the way to the summit and belay from there.  

  P1&2, P3&4, and P5&6 Can all be linked with a 70M Rope and mindful use of runners.

 All pitch descriptions were cited from Falcon's Smith Rock Climbing Guide written by Alan Watts. For a topo of the route and more information go purchase the Smith Rock Climbing Guide from your local Climbing Shop.

Sometimes technical, sometimes powerful, this long and involved route is an exhilarating experience.  The Struggle Within has great position, cool cruxes, requires power and endurance, has good protection, and has surprisingly good rock.     It is composed of four pitches.  All bolt recommendations are approximate: 

  Pitch 1 (5.11a, 11 bolts + anchors).  A mix of 5.9 to 5.10 stemming, laybacking, edging, etc. leads to a crux traverse to the left.  Sequential enough that I had to downclimb out of my dead-end and go back up to do it right.  Don't tire yourself out, you have a long way to go.  Make sure to traverse to the left two bolts before the anchor that sits straight up.  The climbing is easy by the time you can clip the last bolt, but clip it for the follower (Wish I had - sorry Jason).  Belay on a cushy ledge to the left, below a sharp flake/hand crack.   

  Pitch 2 (5.11c, 11 bolts + anchors).  The best pitch of the route.  Conserve energy by climbing efficiently in the crack, and tackle a powerful roof.  From here, edge and pocket your way for the other half of the route.  Belay at a tight perch.  Pumpy and cool as hell. 

  Pitch 3 (5.8, 6 bolts, 1 red or yellow camalot (hand sized) + anchors).  Decent climbing and awesome position, but it's on mossy rock.  The distance between bolts, combined with the moss give it a touch of seriousness, but it's not that bad. 

  Pitch 4 (5.11d, 11 bolts + anchors).  The hardest and most incredible pitch.  I preferred the second to this one, but this one is exciting for the higher level of difficulty.     Start on a crumbling, frightening arete/face, and run it out between good bolts on mostly good holds.  This will put you below the roof.    Pulling the roof is the hardest section, but the crux of the route is surely holding it together for the headwall.  It's difficult to tell what holds are solid and what aren't, and it is a long pitch requiring thought.  Some of these moves may be 5.10+ or 5.11-.  A great pitch that will, in time, clean up nicely and feel like Lion Zion, only with an 11+ move in the middle.     Above the hardest climbing, the angle kicks back.  The final run to the anchor is easy climbing, but kind of freaky.  At one point, you don't have a solid hold for either of your hands or feet, and are about twenty feet run-out.  I think you could get a hand sized cam in up there, but I didn't have one with me. 

  A good comparison is Gulag Archipelago, one of the best multi-pitch routes at Smith, but this route has better position, harder cruxes, and is significantly more sustained.  Its black eye is imperfect rock - but with good bolts, that just makes it more exciting, right?  A great adventure sport route.

What!? A four pitch 5.10 sport route at Smith?  This place is turning into a multi-pitch sport destination.  I know of few other places in the US that have such a high concentration of multi-pitch sport bolted routes than the Smith Rock Group.  That said, there's always something a little spicy about them, and this route is no exception.   An easy approach, great bolting, good rock (except the last pitch), and reasonable moves make Lost in Space one of the more accessible routes that tops out the formation.     All bolt counts are approximate.   Pitch 1 (8 bolts): 5.6.  Follow the bolts up the chimney and onto the fin to the left.  Pass the first anchors, and belay on top of the big ledge.   Pitch 2 (6 bolts): 10b.  Crank sloping edges up a vertical/slightly overhanging wall for ten feet, and finish on an easy slab.  Fun pitch. Give it to the more thuggish partner.     Pitch 3 (10 bolts): 10a.  The best pitch of the route, I thought.  Connive your way through tricky edges for a long way.  Nicely bolted, fun moves, and most of the rock is quite solid.  Enjoy the nice belay ledge at the top, and maybe set yourself up so you are sitting under the overhang.  This will help protect you from rockfall on the last pitch.   Pitch 4 (10 bolts): 5.9. Starting this pitch, you think, "Oh, this isn't so bad."  Just give it time- you will change your mind.  Thankfully, the bolt line meanders, so you aren't climbing directly above your partner for the whole thing.  There is still a chance of braining your partner, though, so be careful, and everyone needs a helmet. 

  Just a thought, it might be possible to cheat right after the third pitch into the gully.  You would want to belay this procedure, and it could be completely heinous.  As dirty as the final pitch is, I think it's worth it so that you get to top out. 

  Even with the last pitch detractor, this route is more than worth doing.  Read the next sentence with a Vincent Price voice impression: Have fun, but look out for loose rock, or you may find yourself... Lost in Space!

Good Ol' Days is a  high quality multipitch route that makes it's way up the the Platform (North Tower of Smith Rock Group) 

  P1: start on a steep hillside to the right of two ponderosa pines. The first bolt is an expansion bolt, the second is a glue in. Easy climbing on crumbling rock leads to a step across on thin holds. The rock improves the higher you get. 11a 12 bolts  

  P2: head up and left clipping two bolts, then place a piece or two. Clip the third bolt and traverse left to a pleasant slab. This pitch can be easily linked with the subsequent pitch. 10b 7 bolts and gear 

  P3: continue on the pleasant slab with some cool fin shaped holds to a hand crack. Cross the crack and continue to the belay. 10a 5 bolts and gear.  

  P4:  Money pitch! Step left and clip bomber glue ins as you climb a continuous flake crack. The rock can be sharp but it's very solid, steep, and exciting. Traverse again as the crack disappears to a hanging belay. 11b/c 9 bolts. 

  P5: start climbing on a steep slab with solid rock, eventually meeting with a crack (bolts). Easily linked into the next pitch. 10d 7 bolts 

  P6. The final pitch is mostly 5th class with a 5.6 move thrown in here or there. Protection is sparse and there are loose blocks, but if you have made it this far you should make short work of this pitch. 5.6 single belay bolt and high line anchor set back from edge 

  Descent:   A 5.2 down climb trending skiers left brings you to the summit plateau. Bring shoes and head left (south) for a long walk off or head right and rappel Wherever I May Roam's descent and go over Asterisk

Quoted from Smith Rock State Park falcon guide: 

  "The original 1968 finish aided a bolt line on the overhanging summit block. Climb an easy bolted slab above the first-pitch anchor and free a short, knobby bulge with great protection and dizzying exposure."

Use the corner crack to get to the first bolt. After clipping the second bolt, it's sustained action on nubbins and pockets all the way to the anchors at 105 ft. Crux hits around the 10th bolt. 

 "End of passion play, crumbling away Veins that pump with fear Leading on your deaths' construction Taste me you will see More is all you need Obey your Master" -Metallica, Master of Puppets

A proud line up the impressive NE Ridge of the Smith Rock Group, Skyridge takes a bold line on nubbins for almost 1/2 a pitch before the first bolt. Confidence and commitment is needed to get onto this climb, but the rest of the bolted first and second pitches are beautiful climbing, with a final pitch of hand traversing (gear to 3") to finish near the top of the Smith Rock group.

Another newer multipitch line on the NE face of the Smith Rock Group, Freedom has excellent climbing for the majority of the route and is a totally worthwhile adventure. P1 was forgettable, but every pitch after that featured stellar climbing on comparably good stone.While the rock quality isn't as good as the well-travelled single pitch classics, it's quite good, especially when compared with the routes around it. The position and movement are exceptional.P1: 10a, 20m. Scramble 20' up to the first bolt and blast off making the occasional techy move on licheny, slightly loose rock. 6 bolts.P2: 5.11, 25m. Delicate opening moves give way to excellent incut jugs and crimps up a gradually steepening corner. One hard move at the finish brings you to an anchor around to the right. Fun movement (reminiscent of Panic Attack) on better rock. 10 bolts.P3: 5.11, 35m. Scramble up to the base of the headwall, clip the first bolt, and commit to steep moves on good holds. The angle rolls over pretty quickly, but the moves stay on you as you climb up the slabby, splitter seam. Step right to the anchor. 8 bolts and gear.P4: 5.12, 25m. Walk over to the right side of the arete and clip the first bolt. Be self-aware moving to the second bolt as the first bolt isn't going to do much to keep you from landing on the belay ledge. The moves wouldn't be too bad to reverse if you realized you weren't going to make it, but are by no means trivial. After that it's classic thin slab climbing up the right side of the arete with amazing exposure and position. This would be a tough onsight without chalked holds. 6 bolts.This pitch can be avoided by climbing the bolt line immediately above the belay at 5.11. (make sure to cut back right to the anchor at the top of the arete, otherwise you'll end up on Good Old Days)P5: 5.11, 30m. Another delicate traverse right gains a left leaning crack system. Slabby moves take you to a roof crux and sustained, leaning fingers for 20'. Good holds lead right to a line of bolts up a spectacular headwall with awesome climbing on good rock. 7 bolts and gear.P6: 5.5, 15m. Optional. We didn't do it, but it looked pretty mellow, if a little loose. I don't think there's a rap anchor, but the topo indicates a bolt. As of 3/3/2012, there was a manky fixed line running to something up there.All pitches can be rapped with a 70m Rope. (except the summit pitch) I'm sure somebody could make it work with a 60 and some trickery, but you should really bring a 70 to rap.You could also bring shoes and walk off the backside. (15 minutes summit-Asterisk Pass)

Season's Change is six pitches of exposed climbing on one of the least visited sections of Smith Rock.  Expect long pitches of pebbling, with shiny new bolts everywhere, and only occasional run-outs.   As of now (early 2010), the route still suffers from poor rock.  On the bright side, some sections of Smith feel as though they will never be clean, but this isn't one of them.  With a dozen more ascents (or one ascent specifically for cleaning), this route will likely be solid, and completely amazing.  Bring helmets, call "rock", and be comforted by the fact that almost all pitches wander a bit away from the belay.  The first pitch may never be very good, but the rest should clean up nicely.   It was a mistake to climb this route in the winter without adequate clothing, but that was not clear until we were high on the wind-whipped wall and psychologically committed to finishing. Retreat was physically possible, but unthinkable.   For us, Season's Change was a formidable route, and worth the time.  In better conditions, it may have been enjoyable, but the brutal conditions, and the necessity of rising to the boldness of the route were more than adequate substitutes for joy.  A great adventure sport route, with the safety of modern hardware. 

  All bolt numbers are approximate - bring extra draws and a runner or two.   Pitch 1 (10a): 7 bolts.  Make your way over a couple of big lumps, clip at 20 feet, and then execute a miserable traverse.   Pitch 2 (10b): 12 bolts.  Step left from the belay, and then launch onto the long, pebbled face with a low and a high crux.  The top of this pitch has the only completely seated belay.  All others are hanging, or partially hanging.   Pitch 3 (10+/11-): 11 bolts.  Straight above the last pitch, power your way through a series of tough moves on difficult to spot holds in a bulge, and then rejoice on jugs on the face above. Finally, work through one of the easier sections of climbing to the base of the fourth pitch.  Watts gives this 10c, but the crux moves are harder than that.   There's another pitch that starts up the left side; ignore it and attack the bulge/overhang.   Pitch 4 (11b): 12 bolts.  The crux pitch, and unfortunately, it isn't the cleanest.  The crux is right off the belay, but it is fairly sustained for another fifty feet.  Take care on the easier upper section - this is one of the dirtier parts of the whole cliff, and more than one hold exploded in my face.   If I remember right, there is also a pitch heading up left from the base of this pitch - take the line on the right.   Pitch 5 (10a): 4 bolts.  A fun traverse on good rock, with a momentarily baffling crux at the end.  Thankfully, the tight bolting makes for a stress-free follow.  Awesome exposure!   Pitch 6 (10c): 12 bolts.  Another long pitch of pebbling and edging, this pitch could really use some cleaning.  The belay at the top is heavenly, with amazing views of the main area, monkey face, and beyond.

Fun face climbing, approached by climbing king nothing

Get high above the Crooked River with this fun three pitch route. The original first pitch (5.6) is a low quality grunt but pitch two (5.7) to the small belay cove and the last pitch (5.7) make this climb worth doing.

Hawks Nest can be climbed as a single pitch 5.9, or continue up Risky Pass (5.10c)  and Skydive (5.10c), to make a spectacular three pitch bolted climb. 

  P1 (5.9) Step across a mini-chimney to reach the first bolt. Fun nubbins and good position.  The crux pinches past nubbins near the third bolt.  Lower from anchors below the top of the tower (60 ft) or, to climb the second pitch (Risky Pass 5.10c), continue to the top of the tower, step across a chimney and up to an anchor at a comfortable ledge. 

  This route is named after the section of the Seattle Seahawks' stadium behind the goal post.  It has a birds' eye view of the entire arena.  The first ascent happened just after the Seahawks won the Superbowl in 2014. 

  The second pitch, Risky Pass (5.10c, FA 2/15), commemorates the questionable play call that cost the Seahawks the Superbowl in 2015.

Kevin’s Arete is the striking line between the upper pitches of White Satin and Lost in Space.  Climb the first pitch if Lost in Space to a two bolt anchor below a steep and leaning bolted crack. 

The second pitch is the money pitch.  After starting up the crack, compose yourself on a hanging slab before embarking on a beautifully varied journey up the more challenging terrain above.  It’s best to rappel down from the top of pitch two and either continue up a different route from the big ledge or to confine rapping to the ground. (barely doable with a 70 and some tricky shenanigans) 

It’s also possible to top the route out via Lost in Space from the top of pitch two, but the terrain between the two anchors is 5.6 r/x dirty choss and not recommended. 

Northeast Face of Smith Rock Group, including Sky Ridge, White Satin, etc.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (1) Northeast Face