This is aptly named with the other routes nearby.

The Dung

The Stung

The Flung

Box Cars

Cobra Kai

Delicious Demon

Snakes on a Train

Snake Eyes

Tha Wang Chung

Fight Like a Brave

Snake Trails

Delicious Apple

The Bum Lung

Back on the Train

The Rung

A little dirty- and inconsequential-looking, this route has a bunch of good moves and is worth doing if you're in the area. It's harder than it looks, but has good rests between cruxes. Some of the clips seemed long to me, but the bolts are spaced closely enough that the difficult clips were not an issue.

There is a lot to like about this climb, but also some detracting features as well.

The good: good stone for the top 2/3 of the route and a great, dynamic crux slap to a positive edge.

The bad and the ugly: the belay is on a sloping, loose, weed-tangled hillside, and the first 1/3 of the route is choss, including some holds you may really want to pull hard on....

You will wonder why you are bothering to start with, then when you get into the good stone, you will start to think it is a pretty good line after all. Overall, it is worth doing, but make sure you stick clip the first bolt.

Climb into a juggy sidepull/undercling, and do a long move to a hollow jug at the 2nd bolt. From here, follow a line of sidepulls for the left hand with some opposition in the right hand. A long move out right to an incut edge is followed by a quick jump to a clipping jug. From here, tricky terrain takes you through the pegmatite groove to a shared anchor with

Cobra Kai

.

Start in a shallow groove, and climb a vicious boulder problem to the second bolt. Catch a rest at the

Snake Eyes

jugs, and move back right to the second crux off bad crimps and technical footwork. A couple more moves lead to rest before the sprint to the chains.

This route follows jugs and short horizontal rails to a short roof crux sequence. The rock is excellent as is the climbing.

This newish route is just left of

Snake Eyes

. It follows some steep climbing with multiple cruxes using sidepulls, underclings, and other trickery. Most of the holds are good, and it should feel easier once you figure out the sequences.

This one is slightly height-dependent. If you are really tall or short, you will find some of the moves more difficult.

Start just left of the large pegmatite band that bisects the wall. This route begins with a couple of bouldery moves off the deck to a good rest. Figure out the crux at the 4th bolt, and enjoy fun climbing to a somewhat airy/techy final few moves at the top.

Layback up bulbous arete features to a right-angling horizontal near the pegmatite pod. Move right to anchors to

The Bum Lung

. A #1 red Camalot can be placed at the break to supplement the runout. Be wary of the large, potentially friable, quartz blobs.

This bold trad line follows the left-facing corners and flakes before eventually moving out to the right side of the main roof feature. Although this line isn't popular, it is a proud lead.

Climb the left arete of Snakes Eyes Wall past two bolts and out a short roof to coldshuts. A couple of hand-sized pieces could be helpful to protect the runout to the anchors.

This recent addition to the wall has some fun climbing on it.  The climbing is adventurous and cerebral.  Clip the first 2 bolts of Delicious Demon and hand traverse left.  You can place a marginal #0.75/1 Camalot to protect the groundfall at the third bolt.  The crux is at the last bolt.  It is nice to have a finger-size cam for the finger crack before the last bolt.

Many of the holds are difficult to find and some are removable! (Belayers should wear a helmet.) It is a tough onsight for the grade.

Follow downsloping edges and rails to a blank bulge. Figure out how to get to the shallow horizontal crack, and you're home free. A fifth bolt may be added.

This pumpy new addition to the wall starts just left of

Delicious Demon

.

The climbing is continous and pumpy.  The crux is clipping the 3rd and last bolt, so it is nice to have these pre-hung.  The climbing involves lots of underclings and hidden crimps. It is definitely worth the effort!

Climb up steep jugs to a horn. Then climb past some horizontal cracks and finish up a slab to chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Snake Eyes Wall