Romp up the unprotected slab (5.4) to the obvious crack. The rock directly underneath the crack was pretty crumbly, so I opted to climb to the break a little to the right, place protection, and traverse to the crack. Make some funky moves out of the roof through the fist crack, dodging some loose rock inside the crack. Nice hands and fists take you to the top, where you can traverse over to the

Cab Ride

anchors.

Eluebbenator

Booze Tube

Pigeon Hole Bouncer

Jame-O-Slab

Tanked

Cab Ride

Three Flakes to the Wind

Sun Deck Specials

If Not For Pigeons

Liquor Jugs

Climb the fun arete feature on so-so rock.

Climb blocky rock to a boulder problem crux at bolt 4 then on to anchors shared with

If Not For Pigeons

.

Jame-O-Slab is the best route at the crag and ascends a long and clean schist slab with full-value bolt spacing.

Climb the face and arete feature to a high anchor.

I’m going to stick with the guidebook rating until some consensus comes in. I climbed this route January 2019 and thought it was pretty standard 5.10 sport climbing. I checked it out again yesterday, and there’s a large rock scar just after the break from slab to vertical.  I think that the moves probably check in at 11c now. It is definitely still doable but harder than the guidebook grade.

Run up a very featured slab to a crispy, vertical crux section. The angle kicks back a little on the way to the anchors but so do the holds, keeping the climbing engaging.

Three Flakes to the Wind is a sport climb through the obvious, 3 large huecos low on the route. A little roof crack guards the top moves to the anchors.

This is the first route you get to after making your way onto the upper terrace of Happy Hour Crag. It’s a long mellow slab climb through some cool quartz crystals here and there.

Start deep in the slot, and climb the right wall to anchors shared with

Pigeon Hole Bouncer

.

A crux right at the beginning leads to easier climbing and eventually a ledge. A steep section with 3 bolts up an arete leads you to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Happy Hour Crag