This is a scenic, short, moderate rock route (albeit with a longish approach) of a neighboring peak of Eldorado.

Good bivy sites at 7800' overlooking the Inspiration Glacier.

Note: You'll need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station to overnight in the Eldorado Zone (

nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/…

).

Northwest Ridge

Southwest Buttress

Direct Southwest Buttress

East Ridge

The East Ridge of Dorado Needle is a pleasurable climb up a unique spire in a wild location. A bit more challenging and lengthy than the NW Ridge of Dorado needle but easier than the SW Buttress.

Any way you slice it, make your way towards the col between Pt. 8386 and Dorado Needle (~7,600'). The route can be started directly on the East Ridge at this col. This will add roughly 400' of mid-to-low 5th class climbing to where Beckey indicated the start of the route.

Right off the col there are some steep, fun and exposed mid-5th class moves. Continue for another 300' or so over varying terrain to a point where one can step off back onto the Mcallister Glacier.

Once you've stepped back onto the glacier, climb a pitch of moderately steep snow to two quartz bands. Gain the rock again at these two horizontal quartz bands and continue up low-5th class terrain to a sub-summit.

From the sub-summit make two rappels into a notch. This should be fairly obvious to negotiate.

Out of the notch, climb a few really, really good pitches of 5.7 crack climbing. After the angle and difficulty eases, continue over low-5th class terrain to the summit of Dorado Needle.

To descend down climb and/or rappel sections of the NW Ridge. It could be possible, in particular conditions, to shorten this descent by rappelling north onto the Mcallister Glacier once gaining an anchor below the summit of Dorado Needle. Be cautious of the conditions of the moat before taking this short cut. None the less, continue rappelling/down climbing to the obvious col on the NW Ridge to gain the Mcallister Glacier.

P1: The first pitch goes up the corner and then slightly to the right. This pitch is a full rope (~55-57m). At the end there is a nice crack for the pro anchor 2-3 inch cams. The pitch is 5.6 with probably one move 5.7 / 5.8.

P2: The second pitch is up and to the right until you reach a little plato where you can set-up the anchor with 0.5-1" cams or a few nuts.

P3: Pass the bolder where the anchor is set up on the left and ascend a short gully which is a 4th class scramble. As soon as you reach the corner on the left side go up to the left. This is probably a place to set up the anchor if no radios as otherwise you won't be able to hear each other. We continued up to a nice ledge with a crack for 1-2" cams and few good nut placement spots.

P4: From the anchor you should clearly see a ridge to your left. The route will bear left a little bit to get to the ridge. Find a nice spot there and set up the anchor (half rope length pitch). We made a mistake here and climbed to the right just below the ridge as it did look like there is another easy way up the ridge. Do not do it as you will end up climbing 5.10 overhang with loose rock on the next pitch. If you did go this way the station will be at the end of the crack where you face almost vertical corner. Note: the next pitch below is described as the standard route and the following text is only a brief description of the variation that we did. The second rope team climbed normal route).

P5A: ascend the corner (5.7) to the first overhand with a little ledge on the right. There is a huge bolder resting on this ledge hanging of it a bit. I was worried to even touch it as if it would come down it could definitely kill someone. A bit of yoga moves and I was standing on the ledge with another crux move on this variation. There are a few rocks that looks like a good pro placement and a handhold spot, but no, it is a trap. The rocks are huge and barely hold together. So it was a no touch spot. There is one spot on the right for a 1" cam which is the only protection you can place there. It is not a solid placement but would probably hold a minor fall. If you manage to reach a flake to the right and above the cam pull yourself up and reach the crack on the left. From there get up to the shelf on the left. This is the same sport as the end of P5 describe below.

P5: Continue up the ridge (low 5th and some scramble portions) to a nice flat shelf on the rock. Depending on where the previous anchor is and the rope drag you can advance another 10-15 meters traversing the rock on the left and getting to a flat spot just below the wall with the right leaning crack. It is preferred to get to the base of the wall if you have 60m rope as it might be a bit of a stretch to get to the next anchor from the ledge.

P6: Climb up the right leaning crack. When the crack ends, continue up straight up the wall using nice big hand holds. The anchor is at the top of the ridge (sling over the rock or pro anchor).

P7: Follow the ridge from the last anchor and then drop down to the left to a nice ledge. Protect this part for the follower downclimbing it. Follow the traverse to the left and then ascend up to the wide crack between two slabs. Climb up to the top of the slab with the huge crack and set up the anchor in the notch there.

P8: One option is to ascend a loose gully with a big chokestone at the top. This is the place that merges with the NW ridge route. Set up an anchor there. The other option is to climb up the wall to the right from the gully towards the right leaning crack on the summit ridge. Do not go right following the crack but traverse to the left. There is a nice notch in the ridge there for belay.

P9: From either point that you choose in P8 follow the ridge to the summit. It is the same as the NW ridge route.

There are two options for descend:

Go all the way back to the top of the gully and rappel from there (one single rope rappel). If the moat is already open there and you will need to get to its base and climb out of it.

Rappel one double rope from the huge rock on the ridge 10 meters north from the summit. There is a rappel ring and a sling there. We reinforced it with one additional sling. This rappel will bring you down to the steep snow section that still has a connection with a rock and you don't need to climb into the moat. The snow bridge there is still solid and is well passable.

Descend the glacier down to the notch where we dropped before to get to the base of the route. From there it is the same way back. The climb itself took us 7 hours. 2 hours for the approach from Eldorado's camp, 1.5 hours to get back. Another 4 hours to get to the cars from the camp.

This 2 pitch direct start of the classic 1985 route is there for some who want a little harder day. After the approach gully for the standard sw buttress route just go strait up instead of going around to the right. We scrambled some 4th/low 5th rock for a little (Depending on the snow level) until 3 vertical cracks appear up and slightly left. climb the rightmost crack 5.8ish until forces you right via a small pillar with good pro(small cams) a few strenuous 5.10 moves mantle onto a large bench. pitch two continues strait up an awkward 5.8+ couple moves(was slightly wet when we did it) to some very fun blocky mid 5th rock to eventually join the 1985 route at the large white slabby rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dorado Needle