A fun slab on good rock that is well protected. Passing the second bolt is the most problematic though shooing away Titmice while on lead can also be cruxie.

Titmouse

Manakin Dance

Subterfuge

The Wing's Leading Edge

The Pink Flamingo

Apodidae Arete

Bird Brain

Carrion Pillar

Primary Feathers

Bird of Pray

Falco

In the Eyrie of the Beholder

Bushtit

Bird of Prey.

The Shattering

Merlin

The Ascent of Man

Start at seam in low point of area through crux  to belay (for 70) at about 70ft.  Continue on for upper face that is a little run on 5.8-9 to second belay at 120 ft.  Upper belay requires 80 m rope to reach bottom or use of  belay for 70.

Very good moderate with lots of movement.  The bolts are fairly close and the stances are solid.  After topping out on the south side of the tower you will need to carefully make your way across the top of the tower to reach the chains on the north side.   You will be doing face, arete, and mantle moves giving this line 3 stars!

Apologies to those primates who are less than 5'9" tall.  There is a height dependent crux at the second bolt.  This being said, there are intermediate moves (perhaps harder than the rating) to reach that critical finger edge. The rest of the climb is stiff with good movement.  Small edges and big throws get you to the left shoulder of Swift Spire where you can place more gear and start the traverse right to the anchor.

This two-pitch route is in the “S” shape of a Flamingo’s neck.  Like most pink flamingos-animate or inanimate and wherever they appear-they make a statement. This line does the same and follows the best rock and more-or-less stays with the overhanging arete.  The anchor is also above both a possible trad and sport lines which looks significantly harder but on great rock.  Feel free to set these up using the anchor and high bolts.  You are welcomed to them.  The Pink Flamingo however, stays left on the arete with more moderate climbing before turning right to the anchor that would cover the future more difficult projects below.

PI - 25 feet

Start with your back to Kestrel Tower and have the leader muscle up the short one bolt chimney to the large ledge with two bolts and a chain.  The second will no longer give you crap about your groveling in the chimney after they join you atop this comfortable ledge.  This, like most chimneys, is awkward and goes about 5.9.

PII - 65 feet

Keep the belayer at the anchor where more protection is afforded from any unpredicted rock fall and send the stronger leader up the face at the south end of the ledge.  Clip the first bolt long.  The second clip is up and left toward a notch in the arete.  Mantle atop the blocky cut out in the arete and place a BD .4 here clipped long.  The next moves are a sketchy traverse toward an awkward side pull.  Move up a bit to a better stance and clip another bolt long prior to reaching far right and pulling your gear and straightening your line.  More side pulls will get you to the fourth bolt where a 4’ runner would help.  Up and right back to the arete through thin edging and arete climbing.  Cross over to the high face above and work right and up to the anchor or clip here and top out in only a few moves.  There seems to be two cruxes.  Both in the upper half of this pitch, each a different kind of problem and each in the high 10s.

A very fun start on the face left of the arete.  Clip the only bolt and move right to the arete.  Here you can place gear in the crack as you climb up the arete to the anchor.  Fun moves!

Easy start leads to some hard moves across the face. Finish up right to anchor.

A nice steady climb with a few tricky sections to keep your intrest.

Several high steps on Swift Spire's blocky NE shoulder gets you to a tip toe traverse to climbers right.  Here you find the anchor on the opposite shoulder of this little spire.  Gear is placed from good stances.

Bouldery moves at first are the crux!  After these north face thinkers, clip the bolt and move left across the arete to better rock thus avoiding the sketchy blocks (your belayer is praying that you avoid these blocks).  The rest of the climbing is reachy and slightly over hung on good stone.  The crack protects well and the last section is really fun.

Climb solid broken rock left of short smooth slab to shallow corner at bolt 3.  Follow corner  through distinctive crux and crack to belay.

Fun slapping up the steep arete which can be lead or toproped from Bird of Prey.

Start in the obvious chimney where the Carion Pillar meets the main wall. After approximately 12 feet, a crack (visible from start) provides the first piece of protection. Two ledges interrupt the continuous chimney and provide the cruxes of the route with the one requiring a less than sexy belly flop. Unlike most chimneys, this route allows gear every 10-12 feet. For some this may feel PG rated as there is ground fall potential at the start and after one of the ledges however all the cruxes are decently protected. Chains are located at the final roof at the end of the chimney and allows for easy topropping. This is a good summer respite for desert chimney addicts when the red desert is too hot or a good practice route for the burgeoning chimney leader.

An easy to protect crack on good rock.  The line joins Titmouse at the last bolt.  This would be a great place to learn to set gear.

move up through questionable rock but great climbing to better rock and climbing above

The old saying "Do Not Judge A Book By Its Cover" very much applies here!  We thought this would go much easier... but we were fooled badly.  A Merlin is a very small raptor and a master of trickery.  The start is a bit spicy (Anaheim) but the ending is a Serrano Pepper for sure!  That last set of moves past the last bolt will bring on "Mexican Heart Burn"

This beautiful laser cut roof crack is one of the best cracks in the jungle.

Begin on easy terrain before pure fist jams lead you to a 4' roof.

Jam through the roof on fists/cupped hands and only 6' and a few roof moves await you before clipping the chains.

It is recommended to place a BD#3 in the last roof crack above and left of the chains as a high point for your 2nd.

Then redirect the rope through the chains. The anchor placement makes things a little funky but allows for zero rope drag and possible 2nd pitch (11+).

This route protects like a dream and is a great introduction into wide roof cracks. It remains shady all day and is blocked from the wind.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Flying Raptor's Area