Climb past fins of rock to a transition right. Techy climbing to a slab crux, then continue up fun flakes to anchor.

Piano Tie Genius

Coal Miner's Son

Malaysia

Ewegoogily

I'm Not Your Brah

Little Cletus

Derilicte

School for Ants

Earth to Derek

Ground School

Approach Pitch aka The Runway

It's the Same Look! Variation

Climb a brushy ramp (5.3 PG-13) to the 4th bolt of “Ewegoogily". A long draw can be used for the first clip. Continue past another 3 bolts to anchors.

Climb a river-worn initial face through a bulge to a short scramble, continue up a fun dihedral/arete to a finishing face. Varied and long.

This multi-pitch moderate is a fun outing starting with a short granite wall, then onto slightly scruffy, very different rock. It has cleaned up considerably since the first ascent, and will only get better with more ascents. All cruxes are well protected, but there may be slight run-outs on easy terrain.

Approach: From the middle platform of Hansel's Hang-out, walk up-stream to the base of a short wall in the creek-bed - this is the approach pitch 5.5, 5 bolts. From the top, scramble left to the small ledge left of a chimney.

Pitch 1 : Start at the toe of the big red buttress.  The easiest way to access the start is by climbing the Approach Pitch from the stream bed.   First pitch is terrain for 20 feet to the first bolt, then continue up the face/arete to a large ledge with anchors. (5.8). 100'/7 bolts.

Pitch 2 : Climb up a ramp on the left, surmount a bulge, then continue up the featured face to a hueco with a crux bulge just below the anchors (5.8). 90'/9 bolts.

Pitch 3: Traverse left then up on the huecos and then continue on wandering fun slab with some interesting moves. (5.8) 115’/10 bolts.  Bring some long runners to mitigate rope drag on the traverse.

Pitch 4: Continue up the short featured granite to visit the “Pine Minister” of Malaysia. (5.6) 50’/6 draws.  Recommend the leader climb and lower back to the previous anchor to eliminate one rappel. Rap the route.

Move right up the ramp past 2 bolts and the stem start. Make a long reach to a hole (harder if you’re short), then continue through the crux to a mantle. Climb up and right through a bulge, then face climb left to a ledge.

A featured slab leads to the lay-away crux bulge, then easy-but-fun quartz climbing to a steep pillar. Continue past a final bulge to anchors.

Easy climbing leads to a steepening face, continue up easier but fun quartz to a moderate face. Surmount the final bulge to anchors.

NOTE: This route can be a bit tricky to back-clean on the lower - additionally, set a few directionals for top-roping..

Climb an off-set crack and face holds on a steep wall with cool moves to a reachy crux. Continue up to a traverse left and a final slab section.

Climb through blocky features to an arete, then right to anchors.

Delicate climbing through varied, tricky features to a stance on a ledge. Continue up a fun dihedral.

Word on the street is this route is harder if you are short, so I gave it a split grade.

Climb past several small roofs up the left side of an overhanging tiered pillar.  Move right into a nice hand and finger crack that ends at the summit of the formation.   Shady till past noon in July.  Fun and juggy with several cruxes.

Climb the fun, featured short face on nice granite.  Crux is the first move off the ledge.  This is the easiest way to access the start and retreat off Malaysia.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hansel's Hangout