The North Ridge route on Forbidden requires a somewhat lengthy but scenic and varied approach with nearly 5000ft of elevation and crosses two of the larger glaciers in the area- the Queen Sabe and the Boston. The ridge itself climbs at a very moderate grade with wonderful position.

If your looking for solitude this route is for you- with most parties vying for an ascent of the West Ridge or the East Ridge direct its likely youll have this route all to yourselves.

All things considered the North Ridge makes for a memorable trip to one of the coolest summits in the area.

A variation to the North Ridge was done in 1973, that route, the NW Face of the North Ridge is described here as well.

North Ridge

East Ridge Direct

Northwest Face

West Ridge

A great alpine climb easily accessible (~4-5h from car park).

From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.

From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climbing around it on the north side. The second last pitch is the crux pitch, 5.8 (nothing difficult).

The great rock provides awesome holds.

Descent the north side by rapping and traversing climber's right. We made 5 rappels and simul climbed until we reached the bivy site where we stored our gear.

Fred Beckey calls it "an exceptional climb of purity."  Blake Herrington says "The Northwest Face is Forbidden's best route."

Once at the base of the route (see approach beta below), solo or simul-climb steep, somewhat loose 4th to low-5th class for about 500 feet to the start of a knife-edge section.

Cross the knife-edge ridge at 5.6 and then up through the crux (staying true to the ridge and stemming as well as crack climbing) at 5.8.

Once the ridge blends into the face, head up and left through a wide chimney feature where the rock steepens and then continue up low-5th to 5.6 terrain on good rock to the summit.

Descend the West Ridge or East Ledges.

The West Ridge of Forbidden is included amongst the 50 Classic Climbs of North America.  Expect stunning views, solid rock, an unforgettable summit, and fickle weather.

From Boston Basin, ascend scree slopes and gullies, aiming for the snowfield and the obvious West Ridge Couloir.  Ascend the snowfield to the base of the West Ridge Couloir.

In early and mid-season, the best option to gain the ridge itself is to ascend the West Ridge couloir (about 40-45 degree snow).  Climb the couloir until it peters out below some steep chimneys.  Move left over some 4th class rock into a gully and scramble up to the notch at the start of the West Ridge proper.

In late season the snow couloir may be too melted out to climb safely. If this is the case, you can gain the ridge by climbing the rocky gully to the left of the couloir.  This is how we did it in September.  The rock gully is 4th-easy 5th class but was a little tricky with wet and loose rock and few options for pro.

Once the ridge itself is gained, start climbing up (duh?).  Stay on or near the ridge for most of the time.  The climbing is 4th and easy 5th class.  Stay to the left (north side) when in doubt.  An obvious steep step is reached about 2/3 of the way up.  Ascend this on the left side, passing a fixed piton (5.6).  Once past this, follow the ridge crest around the left of the false summit and to the true summit.

Descent:

There are 2 options for the descent.  You can downclimb and rappel the West Ridge itself, or you can do the "East Ridge descent route" which is actually on the NE Face.

1. The West Ridge descent seems preferable to me because you're familiar with the route already, the routefinding is minimal, and you can ditch your boots, axe, and crampons at the notch and retrieve them on the way down.  Having said that, I haven't done the other descent.

From the summit, downclimb and rappel the West Ridge route (1 rope works for the rappels).  Once you're back to the notch, you can downclimb or rappel the snow couloir.

An alternative to downclimbing the snow couloir is to rappel down the rock rib adjacent to the couloir.  The rap route is to the skier's right of the snow couloir.  From the notch, downclimb some loose 3rd class rock.  Instead of moving to skier's left into the couloir, head right onto more 3rd class rock.  Just before the rock drops off steeply, you should locate a rappel station.  We did 5 or 6 single rope rappels from here back to the snowfield.  You may need to back up some of the rap stations with webbing and rings.

2.  The East Ridge Descent Route is another option.  I haven't done this one, so I'll tell you what Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield say in their guide:

"From a horn on the summit make the first of five single-rope rappels (approximately 400 feet total) straight down the NE face to a series of ledges, which are followed East.  These ledges are 3rd class, except for short sections of 4th class encountered at several rock rib crossings.   Traverse at this level, staying well below the ridge crest, crossing five ribs before climbing up the gully back to the ridge crest at the solitary gendarme (there is a large gendarme that marks the start of the East Ridge climbing route).  Descend snow and scree into Boston Basin."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Forbidden Peak