Start up a left leaning ramp into sustained, technical climbing through a couple bulges to a crux near the top. 

18. Golden Light

14.  Four Star Arete

12.  Grid Iron Right

6.  Herr Nightingale

1.  Bee Sting

9.  Lucky Seven

16.  Garden Walk

13.  Red Roof

15.  Garden Party

8.  Lucky Corner

7.  That was Zen, This is Tao

5.  Triangle Spire

2.  Unknown left crack

3.  Unknown right crack

4.  Unnamed

17.  Pump'n the Gardner

11.  Grid Iron Left

10.  Open Book

Flower Power

One of the furthest climbs to the right, this is a popular crack. Mainly top roped, is a great trad lead as well. Start up the easy 5th class ramp to an off width. The crack splits, climb right. There are crux sections, have fun! Then climb up to easier ground.

Start 5' left of Big Chimney.  Climb straight up till you hit the roof.  Exit a little left of center through roof and weave through another more manageable roof to anchors just over the top.

Classic! Start on narrow arete and gain the upper head wall. Utilize holds on the right corner. Super fun movement on great rock. Can top out from anchors of careful.

Left leaning fingers to hand crack that zig back right a bit then straight to the top.

This route is a fun short crack that goes from fingers to fists that has a decent number of face holds. The crack starts out on a large block and then gradually gets wider at the top.

10 feet right of #8.  Head up and right only to traverse hard left just under a small roof.  Exit on the left side of the roof and punch it straight to the top.

Same start as #17 except when the crack Y's take the left crack around the arete.  Trends up and left most of the way until the last bit when you head straight up for the topout.

Starts 15' left of the Big Chimney.  Head straight up to an overhanging alcove.  Continue straight up out of the alcove to the top. Cool exposure pulling through the roof,

Wall just right of Big Chimney.  Follow the thin crack to top. 

This route climbs a flake on the left side of a dihedral for twenty feet. Then the route climbs a few small ledges heading into two small roofs. Climb around the left of the first roof and then to the right of the second roof ending at the rap rings.

Just the the left of unknown crack, where the crack splits tend left.  Climb up to 3rd class and to a roof.  Go right, left, or straight...the choice is yours

Starts 5' right of route #2 and ends up merging with route #2 at 2/3 height.

Start on the left/south side of the spire and head for the arete.

Start on lower angle terrain for first couple bolts. And then head into the headwalll utilizing crimps, side pulls, and the occasional jug. Easiest finish to the chains is slightly to left of bolts.

The route is the off width crack in a dihedral. It starts with wide fists and eventually widens in to a chimney.

Could be one of the best moderate sport route in UP given its length and rock quality. Weave your way through bolt line, and stay to left of bolts towards top. Can top out easily from anchors. 

Slugg's Bluff offers some of the best face and crack climbing in the Marquette area.  With a epic view of the Palmer Mine and the Palmer swamp, it offers the best fall climbing around. The face climbing is typically slabby, with nice edges. Beware of some loose rocks and vegetated rocks.  Although not developed, this area will eventually see it.  

  All anchors need to be set up with gear or webbing.  A few long pieces of webbing (50/75 foot) are required for top roping.   

  If you drive to the top of Slugg's Bluff, conciser staying for a night.  There is an established metal fire ring next to the run down shed.  There is pleanty of room for a few cars and tents.  Access is unknown but locals on 4-wheelers drinking Milwaukee's  Best told us it was legit (take that how you will)  

  I intend on establishing some rappel anchors, trad chains, and a few sport climbs winter/spring of 2010.  Please contact me if more information if needed.   

  MORE ROUTES TO BE POSTED!!!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Slugg's Bluff Roped