An overhanging power problem with a highball slab topout.  Sit start with the large flake (same start as Halcyon) and make two moves into the last of the good holds.  Make a large move with your R hand to a small crimp (crux) and drop into a better hold with your L.  Toss R to the lip, campus a few moves to the right, then pull a committing move to stand up on the slab.  Work your way straight up.

My Little Pony

Confident Man

Jaded

Rio's Problem

Outback

The Morgue

Halcyon

Anorexorcist

Stegosaurus

Bulemia

Flakes of Life

Bones to Bits

Sit start next to Rio’s problem and make a few hard moves to a juggy flake system and mossy top out.

This is the very thin line of crimps up the overhanging wall to the left of Halcyon. Start with a sidepull and a very small right handhold and make an exceedingly hard move to a decent edge. Continue with interesting, difficult moves on decent edges to the lip, then top out and follow Halcyon up the slab to the top of the boulder. The crux is the first move, but the rest is no gimme.

Located on the same boulder as Stegosaurus, this problem climbs the left underside arete from a sit.

Start with a good undercling for your left hand and a big slopey gaston a little lower with your right hand. Make a move with your right hand to a sharp sidepull/crimp strait above you. Next come up to another slopey sidepull/pinch with your left. Work your feet up and make a move to an edge, match, then on to easier finishing moves.

A cool climb, and a great little warm up.   Might actually be the best low grade problem of B. Natty.    Great unique holds that aren't sharp.  

  Sit start with the left arete for the left hand and a slopey sidepull rail for the right.   Choose from an array of feet, and make moves up and right via good holds.    A reach up gets you to the friendly juggy top.  

  A slightly harder variation starts with right hand on the right arete, and the left hand on the left arete.    Another variation involves left hand on a sloper under the small over hang, and the right hand on the arete.   Throw on a right heel and pull on with difficulty and make moves up and eventually to good holds. Grading is unknown.

Climb the grove through lots of little crimps and pockets. This is really tall and there is also a tree right at the bottom too. Very commiting. The Crux is at the bottom and it gets easy the higher you go.

One of the proudest lines in the park. Start sitting on an obvious good undercling, then work up to a desperate move way left to a sloping, friction-dependent gaston. Stick this, then make a couple difficult moves on slopers (a couple ways to do this section, possibly with a kneebar) to the lip. Top out, then traverse left on crispy rock and continue up the slab to the top of the boulder.

A fun, short power problem that climbs a bottomless block.  Sit start with both hands matched on a sloping jug rail on the bottom right corner.  Heel hook next to your hands to pull on and dangle before making a move out to the edges, bump left hand again, then match.  Rock up on the heel and around the arete to a crimp (crux) or the lip if you're long. 

  This problem is at 1:48 

youtube.com/watch?v=i27SMGh…

 

Although it doesn't look like much, this short problem climbs great and is usually dry.  Sit start on the left arete with your left hand on the arete, and right hand on a crimp.  Pull up and bump out right to the vertical pinch/crimp, work your feet and make a hard match.  A strong core, the right foot beta, and use of the thumb catch might make the move feel more realistic. Move right to a slopey rail as a gaston.  Use some technique to match the rail and move right to a crimp, before bumping up again with the right hand to a better crimp.  Use the sidepull with your left hand to assist in reaching the jugs above.  Alternately, from the rail, power up and left into the sidepull/undercling and fire out right for a better hold and the top. 

  The landing can be a bit muddy although the sticks will keep your pad rather clean.

A hard power problem that actually involves some technique. Hang start on the good rail as for "Anorexorcist". Bend your knees and extend your arms, your legs should be under the small roof. In one fluent motion, bring your legs and knees up towards your chest while doing a pull up and make a big campus move up and right to a jug on the arete. From here match and move up the arete and topout.    A fun sneaker problem, and good power training.

One of the very best boulder problems at Pawtuckaway.  Don't climb too far unless you're sure of what you're doing.  A funky layback/kneebar keeps the"riff raff" away at the bottom.  A classic squeeze chimney follows which then pinches off at the top.  You must then leave the security of the chimney for the crux - a surprisingly awkward scrunch move makes the transition to the mossy slab above.  You really wouldn't want to pop off here.  Relish the summit (like being on the roof of a house!), then consider the options of getting down, possibly via the epic downclimb of a fat chimney on the opposite side.

This area calls to both the highball climber and mutant inside all of us. With the main boulder being 20+ feet, it definitely has a presence in the park. Testpieces abound as the Split boulder hosts a large concentration of hard and/or committing lines.  Bones to Bits, an off-width, and The Morgue, a dihedral, will test your ability to stay calm off the deck.  Halcyon, Confident Man, Three Amigos, My Little Pony, and Heart of Darkness are some of the hardest problems in the park.  Shorter problems exist on the shorter boulders, and a couple of projects are still waiting for a send. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Split Boulder