The excellent (though polished and pin-scarred) crack just right of

Huston Crack

. This route is quite strenuous, but the gear is really straightforward, so give it a whirl if you're comfortable whipping on #3 RPs. It's also easy to scramble up the left side of the pillar and set up a toprope.

Aid Crack

Indistinction

Face Problem

Othello

Empor

The Hug Right

Sleepy Hollow

Night Vision

Mantle Arete

Corn on the Cob

Eat Left

Crystal Arete

The Game

Right Crack

Brownies In The Basin

East Crack

Empor Scary Variant

The Headless Horseman

Devil's Dream

Left Huge aka The Hug Left

Hurley Direct

The Goat

Huston Crack

North Face Center

Northwest Corner

Thunder Road

Ms. Fanny Le Pump

Under The Boardwalk

North Face Left

West Dihedral

Face Route

West Cracks

West Rib

South Crack (Unknown)

Budin’s Foundation Crack

Eat Right

The Hug

Huston Crack begins on the bottom left side of Cob Rock in the middle of the buttress to the left of the

North Face Center

start. It is an obvious wide crack that goes straight up for 50 feet.

It starts out with a few hand jams, quickly goes to fists for about 10 feet and then goes to a wide (arm-bar) crack for the remaining 35 feet (crux). The end of the crack starts to narrow to fist and hands again and then ends on a ledge....continue up steep but easy face to top of block with good cracks to set up belay/toprope.

From here you can set up a TR for the 10d finger crack (hard) just right of Huston Crack (it's called

Old Aid Crack

) and 11a face climb to the right of

Old Aid Crack

.

The center crack of the routes located just around the corner and uphill (to the east) of the buttress with

Huston Crack

and

Aid Crack

, at Cob Rock. This route ascends a steep, right-facing dihedral with a handcrack for 15 feet, then slabs out and widens to fists/offwidth. Two beefy new rap bolts at the top.

This is a nice, slightly overhanging, tall face.  It starts low and climbs out of the crevice, topping out above a higher landing.  Crux is up high, but the fall is not too bad.  Nice moves on cool holds, a great warm-up for sure.

This is one of the farthest left of the routes located just around the corner and uphill (to the east) of the buttress with

Huston Crack

and

Aid Crack

at Cob Rock. This route climbs a slabby dihedral then tackles an impressive but easy 5 foot roof and finishes with perfect hands. There is no anchor, unfortunately, so you'll have to do a scary walkoff instead.

This is seldom climbed. Be careful of loose rock at mid-height.

Per

Tony B

:

Edit - a little research back in time with guidebooks has revealed that this climb is indeed Othello, and that the more recent books have simply misplaced the route.

This is a good stemming and jamming route with a small roof for crack climbing practice.

Start off from the ground in slightly junky rock, pull up into the corner on solid but tricky holds (10-, height may help), and get established in the corner. Stem and jam up several meters to get established under the roof, where a few 1" and under TCUs can be placed well with a long sling before battling the roof. Jam overhead and stem up to place a 2.5" cam (a yellow Camalot is OK) over the lip of the roof just above a solid chockstone, then stem and pull up on great hand jams and some incut holds to get established over the roof (crux, 10-). Continue onward to a nice ledge to set a trad belay.

To descend, scramble upward and SE, then down a ramp and south again to the ground... it is hard to explain, and might be best found from the ground first.

Eds. This is a combination of two submissions that are ultimately for the same route.

3 short pitches:

P1. Scramble 10 feet up from a inset face on the lower right hand side of the face, to a flat area with a large boulder to the right (you can also access by slipping underneath the large boulder from farther to the west). Head up the right-facing dihedral to above the boulder, then follow the flake up and right. Belay at the nice ledge to your left.

P2: Climb another right-facing dihedral with a cold, deep crack. Reach a slot that runs up and left, and belay on a small ledge ~5 feet into the slot.

P3: You can exit up the slot to the left (5.0), or take the crack running up and right (5.7+ and fun).

SDS under a roof, make a toss to the lip, shoot out right, and work your way to the heartbreaker topout... don't dab.

Beta video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvT8kNkyl4w&ab_channel=JosephCassidy

.

Sds in the cave with

The Headless Horseman

, go up the the rail, and head left up the face in the cave to a kinda scary top bit on cool holds.

Night Vision starts just left of Huston Crack, by a tree next to the rock, just left of the arete.

P1: Make balancy moves up to the first bolt (unprotected, or desperate #2 stopper/small RP about 8' up) and then continue on to clipping 2nd over the slabby bulge. Continue on easy ground to the top of a large block (watch rope drag) at the base of a headwall with 2 bolts and 2 fixed pins. Belay here.

P2: Go straight up the headwall, through a nice undercling (optional #3 Camalot) and clip one of the fixed pins (or both). Once here, move out onto the face/arete passing 2 bolts to an alcove at the top of the arete.

P3: Continue up and right via a crack to the summit (5.7).

A great route, with crux(es) protected by bolts. Note: You can also rap off at the end of the second pitch; there are many slings with rap rings (backing these up is suggested).

Start on a rock just east of the roof that you have to mantle. Reach up high or jump to starting hold make a move out right to jug/mantle hold, pull over the CRUX, and continue up a 5.6 arete to the top.

On the far right side of the rock and just off the descent trail is a steep west facing gold and brown wall. Corn on the Cob start on the right side of this wall. Climb up to the first bolt, make a move up to a small overhang. Clip a bolt and crank over the roof. Continue straight up the face past three more bolts to the anchor. Bring small stoppers for a flake just past the fourth bolt. Good climbing on excellent rock.

The move over the overhang was 12- until a very loose block came off leaving a large incut bucket.

Eat Left is a reasonable route that needs a little more traffic or cleaning before it could be nominated for a second star. Meanwhile, it is worth the bother for those who are already there and want to add on a pitch, or for a wanderlust or completist, motivated leader.

Of the 3 cracks that wander up the lower section of the East face about 40-50' to the stout belay tree (fixed rap anchor), this is the leftmost, easiest, and widest. You can get few good hand-jams along the way. It needs little more cleaning or traffic to reach its full potential, a measured compliment.

Get established on the wall (spotter?) at 5.9, and sink in a good cam. Continue climbing up some awkward and sustained moves to what may be the crux about 2/3 of the way up. This will only be notable for those with poor jamming skills and perhaps blend right in with the rest of the route.

Work your way up to the top of this crack and up onto the ledge, then go back and right to reach the belay tree.

Great moderate arete problem!  Start on a selection of features on the face, move up to some sharp but positive holds, and ride the arete (crux) to a good top out.

In February of 2010, Daniel Woods finally finished off a climb long known as the Boulder Canyon project.  He called it The Game and gave it the grade of V16 - the first in America.  Cedar Wright made a film of his attempts and send, and it can be seen at this year's Reel Rock Film Tour, and a preview is here:

vimeo.com/9415862

.

The right crack of the routes located just around the corner and uphill (to the east) of the buttress with

Huston Crack

and

Aid Crack

at Cob Rock. This one climbs a short left-facing dihedral to a slabby offwidth/fist crack. This is actually a very good climb to practice offwidth techniques on, and quite fun. But there's no anchor, so the walkoff reduces its appeal. Seldom climbed, but worthwhile.

This route was originally done without the bolts and has been retrobolted by unknown bolters.  Apparently one of the retrobolts has been removed.

The route is located on the west side of the buttress, uphill from the more popular routes. Look for a steep wall with 3 retrobolts and a slung horn for a hazardous anchor. It's a worthy climb, though short and somewhat strangely retrobolted. It is possible to do a short second pitch (~5.9) up the crack above that connects with the

Northwest Corner

.

Eds. this description has been edited.

East Crack (also known as East Edge) is a fun thin crack through good rock (and not slick, like a lot of Boulder Canyon!).  Nearly all of the crux jams are pin scars, so it didn't have that three star feel...never-the-less the overall rock quality makes it worth doing.

Upon reaching Cob Rock, the lowest feature is a 50 foot high buttress with a prominent wide crack, the Huston Crack.  This, or the 5.10 finger crack just right, make good direct starts to East Crack.  Otherwise, scramble 4th class up on the right or left side of the buttress, go up past some blocks, and set a belay near the left edge of the north face.  The route begins up a shallow LF corner that leads up to the right end of a small roof or overlap.  Rossiter and others call the corner runout, but the 5.9 is one move to a good hold, easily scoped and retreated from if necessary, and the RP placement is good.  Turn the roof and head left into the crack, which becomes progressively harder (with a couple funky gear placements) until a thank-god fixed pin.  Rappel from the ledge with blocks above, or continue up and right to the summit.

Follow

Empor

to the upper wall. Instead of going left into the v notch, go straight up incipient cracks and seams. A crux move going left uses a wedged hold that is completely detached into an RP seam - be careful here. Another option is to escape to the

Northwest Corner

route.

"Climb a thin crack near the center of the wall to a bulge and then up to a tree." - D'Antonio,

Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs

Additional details: start at a lichen covered crack system just right of an obvious, left-facing dihedral. This is actually more toward the upper end of the wall. Locating the lone bolt for Racing the Sun, the route just uphill will help further. Head straight up to a small roof, then slightly left using a horizontal and then up to a shelf using the nice but short, left-leaning corner. From the center of the shelf, not the crack to left which is much harder, climb up highly featured rock with liebacking and smearing to the jugs on lip of upper ledge. Work left along the lip with better feet and a dirty flake to reach the tree.

The climbing is nice and varied. Expect a bit of spice due to lichen coverage, and a fall from the upper section would land you on the shelf.

Start just to the right of

Empor

, to the right of the big boulder. It has solid finger jams with marginal feet, but bomber gear take you to a juggy ledge/corner that seemed a little awkward. From here, continue up on the

Northwest Corner

route, or head a bit left to join

Empor

. You can place pro before starting by standing on the boulder to the right of the crack. This might prevent a nasty trip into the cave below.

It's hard to believe no one has climbed this before, but there were no traces, nor is it listed anywhere.  It should at least be posted.

The climb is located on the northwest corner of the lower buttress (the one Huston's Crack is one).  The climb is between the small pine tree (to the left) high on the wall, and the large pine tree (to the right) growing very close (2 feet) to the wall.

Climb a 10ft finger crack which ends in an open book.  The crack inside of the open book splits (one to the left, one to the right) just below the overhang.  Do whatever you need to to follow the left crack out onto the east face (crux) (basically climb to the small tree)  When you get to the tree go right and under that tree to summit.  Take easy terrain to the belay point

This climb would be a great way to start East Edge, instead of just scrambling up.

This is 2 pitches.

P1. Start at base of North face between 2 huge boulders, go up crack and after 50 feet continue in crack system to the right....keep going until you reach a small pillar just over the right edge of a huge right facing corner...belay here.

(Eds. beware of a huge, loose block.)

P2. Head up hand crack that curves right (tricky crux, flared jams), then head straight up to summit. You can avoid this crux finish, and from the belay, go left up huge V-slot (5.0) to summit, but why?

2 pitches. Start on top of huge boulder right of

North Face Center

and a huge, right-facing dihedral. Start right of this dihedral in a crack and head up. Continue thru right-facing system (not the huge one 15 feet left) and when it dies out keep going up on face (crux) to small ledge, then traverse right of arete and belay on small pillar. Head straight up to overhang and crank with a reachy and blind (but perfect) jug above tricky roof and on to easier ground and summit.

The west face of Cob Rock is a steep gold and brown wall. Thunder Road fires up the center of this beautiful wall. Climb up to a large crack/corner on the left side of the west face. Easy fifth class. Belay here with gear. Travese right and clip the first bolt. Crank up and clip the second bolt, make a series of weird lay-a-ways and then crank on good holds to a difficult mantle. Steep climbing veers right and then straight up on good holds to the anchor. Excellent route on very good rock.

The route climbs a very thin flake/crack with difficult entry moves. It is strenuous to protect taking Lowe Balls, RPs and small camming units. Once you turn the bulge the upper slab/crack eases significantly. There are fixed anchors. The excellent initial moves are probably 11c once you figure them out but are a very hard flash for that grade.

Begin with an awesome sit start, under the horizontal roof, squeezing with both hands, and a left heelhook. Then go right 15 feet, then up! The cruxes are at the beginning and the sloper last move on the slab.

P1. Starts the same as

North Face Center

....goes left when steep finger crack goes left on face away from the big dihedral on right....then traverse left on shallow ledge....up tricky and steep finger cracks to blocky belay ledge.

P2. Then continue up steep but easier cracks to top.

Walkoff the back.

Start up the dihedral with good stemming, hands, and fists.  Pull up onto slightly less steep terrain, make an awkward step and reach, and finish as for Northwest Corner.  The crux is somewhere in the first 20 feet.

Watch out for some loose blocks and flakes before you pull.  Would give it another star but the steep dihedral section is just a little short.

Another option for finishing is to turn the large roof to the right of where one would normally step left to finish Northwest Corner.  There is plenty of good pro and looks like fun.  Tried to turn it but it quickly spit me off with a vengeance.  Just a guess because I didn't send it but maybe 11ish?  Hands were good, but feet were tough.

Truly good climbing, and truly runout. The moves are technical and aesthetic, rather than burley and insecure. A good problem to hang after getting up on

Huston Crack

or the '

Aid Crack

" (which goes free at 10d).

Start to the right of the bolted

Brownies in the Basin

, and go up a somewhat hard to protect (only the first 15 or so feet) crack and continue up for another 50-ish feet aiming for the slight roof/bulge with several vertical cracks in it. When you get there step left, plug a two inch piece and enjoy a few perfect hand and fist jams (5.9 I think) that leads up to the pillar and belay point for

Northwest Corner

. Belay here or keep cruising to the top with the

NW Corner

finish.

A very pleasurable journey up the west side of Cob.

P1. Start near a very large boulder on the descent trail from the top of cob on the west side - look up and see the obvious crack.  Pitch one is very mellow 5.7 crack that takes any pro you like - be sure to head left when the crack ends and enjoy the exposure on the north side of the pillar.

P2. Pitch two goes up the roof on NW corner - hense the 5.8 rating. Would be even better if it was longer (especially the roof pitch!)

This route is located on the South Face of Cob Rock and is easily seen on the standard walk off along the south and western portions of the rock. It follows and obvious, hand-sized crack just to the left of the tree at the summit.

The route has ample gear placement opportunities but sees very little traffic. It would make an excellent, novice trad lead as it is short, distinct, decently protected, and one could easily belay from the tree at the summit (ie. an obvious anchor location).

For Cob Rock regulars, it is only worth doing after one of the more standard summiting routes is completed.

One last benefit, the road and creek noises are minimal since it faces south (southwest).

Climb 25 feet of perfect hands to easy 5.2 climbing to the top.

Eat Right is a route that climbs and protects better than it would seem upon first glance. If it were twice as long, I'd give it another star. As is, it is actually a good 'half pitch' in length.

Start off on 2 thin and intermittent cracks at the base of the wall, and get established a few feet up (5.9 to get on the wall) and place some reasonable gear. Start working your way up the twin seams, mostly on the right at first but occasionally on the left. Thin cams are the best protection, being 1st knuckle-sized most of the time. As you get toward the top, the right seam ends, and you pop left to a great lock and more gear on the right seam, just before the final bulge. This is the crux. It could be, perhaps, avoided by traversing out of the right cracks and into the leftmost one (flaring hand crack) earlier on and keep the difficulty at 10a or so.

Top out though a few lower angle moves and onto the big ledge, and belay at the large healthy tree. A 50' rap puts you back on the ground.

Sds under roof, a toss to the lip, some bicycling and a mantle with a sharp crimp. Sometimes V9, sometimes V11.

Description

Protection

Routes in Cob Rock