P1: Follow an obviously white streaked S-shaped crack up past a tree. Belay on the ledge a little off of the left of the ridge. 125ft 5.8

P2: Ramble up the ridge crest on easy blocks until you reach a big belay ledge next to a large boulder and the 5.7 crack of the next pitch. 200ft Easy 5th

P3: Climb the crack up to a ledge with a tree. Move to the right on the ledge, climb the cracks up to the next ledge and belay with a #1 and chalks at the base of the twin cracks. 180ft 5.7

P4: Climb the twin cracks up from this ledge into a dihedral; both take small cams well. Once above the dihedral, you'll see some horns; from here, leave the ridge and traverse out to climbers left to a ledge out on the face with a tree. Belay at this tree. 125ft 5.8

P5: Climb the easiest line up from the tree to regain the ridge (one or two layback moves are the crux). Once on the ridge ramble up the easy 4th to a good ledge with a splitter crack; belay here. 85ft 5.8

P6: Climb the 5.6 splitter crack up a step off the ledge on the ridge crest. Above this step, traverse around the right side of a gendarme. Continue climbing to a belay at a ledge beneath twin cracks on the left. Rope drag can be bad on this pitch; consider breaking the pitch up if you are having problems. 110ft 5.6

P7: Climb the bomber twin cracks straight up to a ledge. Belay here. 110ft 5.7

P8: Climb up a large widening crack. At the top of the crack, climb left on face holds. You may be able to find a placement for a small cam here or there, but don't count on it. Continue up the ridge crest to the top. 150ft 5.8

Descent: From the summit of Paisano, downclimb easy terrain until you're below the NF of Burgundy. You will see rap slings on horns. Do not climb up the sub-peak north of the NF (there may be tat there, but don't use these). Make one 30m rap down down to a ledge, downclimb to the next anchors, then make one more 20m rap down to the ground.

West Ridge

Rampage

Rampage follows a large corner system on the right side of the main face. It's in the shade until afternoon. The cruxes on pitches 2 and 3 are short lived and easy to pull through if you need to, and overall I'd say this climb is pretty mellow for a 5.10 on alpine rock. Approach by hiking most of the way to the Burgundy Col, and then cutting right across a very loose slope to gain the left end of an obvious ledge system. Follow this ledge system to the right, to the base of the corner.

Pitch 1 has several options and can be a little confusing because there are multiple corner systems. On the approach, identify the "triangle roof" (actually more of a square roof) on pitch 2 and use this to orient yourself so you end up in the right corner.

Pitch 2 is the standout pitch with stellar rock quality. Climb the steepening corner to the small roof. Above the roof are a couple long moves between fingerlocks and this is the crux. It helps to either be tall or have very small fingers.

Pitch 3 is short climbs a detached flake in the corner before stepping out to a crack system on the left-hand wall. The rock gets more grainy here but the climbing is still fun.

For the final pitch you want to trend a bit to the right and there are several options here which are mostly all easy.

Descend by scrambling the Class 3 ridge towards the North Face of Burgundy Spire. Some downclimbing is required on precariously stacked blocks and flakes. From the sandy ledge many parties link this route with the N Face of Burgundy, otherwise make two 30m rappels down the rubble-filled gully to the left.

Description

Protection

Routes in Paisano Pinnacle