So I'm not sure if this route had been done before. I though I would add it to the page, because it's a good way to get up the top of

Sugar Crack

to top rope it. It's also a good/easy way to get to the top of the crag.

Sugaree

Sugar Crack

Rubberneck Crack

It looks unstable, scary, and run out, but it isn't any of those.  While it is not a route to push your limits on, good protection can be had the whole way and the flake is actually pretty well-attached.

Scramble up some slabby junk out of the ditch along the road and to a ledge below the obvious flake. Place gear under and in the flake and pull up and into it.  Continue past good stances and rests, placing sometimes hard-to-see gear in the flakes every 4-5 feet (double set of Aliens if you want to sew it up), and top out of the flake on face holds.  A horizontal with a thin-hands placement comes just as you run out of flake to protect.  Make a few moves left and pull over a slight bulge onto a slab and continue up and left to the summit of the rock, protecting in good horizontals most of the time.

Begin on the southwest side of the buttress and climb an angling, hand crack to a small bush.  At this point, the crack forms a quartz-filled groove and the pro becomes scarce.  It is possible to stem left to the corner and avoid the mungy runout.  Continue up to a handcrack splitting a roof and turn the roof using hand jams and face holds (crux).  Continue to the top of the buttress up broken rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sugar Crack Buttress