Angry Elf on a Shelf

Mirabilis

Big Neon Glitter

Gargoyle

Cloister

Pitch 1: 5.6 scramble on shit rock

Pitch 2: Thin crack gets you started, make some sporty moves while placing small gear. 3 bolts traverse right and over the bugle too yet another thin crack, power through a thin crack lyback up to the chains

An LCC classic that graced the cover of the first Ruckman guide. Its hard to overstate how cutting edge this was in 1988.  Pretty damn hard pulling the crux, but its not over until you climb the prow above.  You get extra points on your 8a.nu scorecard if you send it in a pink tank top.

One of LCC's best.  Killer thin crack liebacking.  The crux is placing gear.  The second pitch rounds the ear and goes up and past the horn with the slings.  Climbing through to the horn in one pitch gives the most continuous climbing and goes to an obvious stance, but requires a 70m rope and the rock just past the original anchor spot is a bit grotty.  I've never climbed past the horn, reportedly the rock of the second pitch is of less quality than the first pitch.

This is the chimney/offwidth system to the right of the classic Gargoyle pitch.  This route is really fun.  Start with steps and edges, then enjoy the double cracks.  Arm Bars with the left and finger locks and jams with the right.  Climb to an ancient bolt then the business begins. Either stuff yourself through the super tight squeeze chimney straight up (5.9), or go out the bulge via the offwidth (5.11).End the pitch at a belay with one good and one brand new bolt. Eat your Wheaties for the Offwidth or don't eat anything for two days for the Squeeze.

Description

Routes in Gargoyle Wall