The only thing that keeps this route from a three star rating are the rests that break the continuity.  Skip the rests and you've got an awesome line (but you'll probably fall off...).  Start with a .12a move off the deck, then work up left to an alcove (shake rest #1).  Exit left high (harder) or low (easier) and wind up in a lay down slot (rest #2 - take a nap).  Another .12a crux leads past two more bolts until you can swing around the corner (rest #3 - have a seat).  Come back out onto the overhanging face for the final .12b crux to the anchor hooks.  Add it all up and it comes to .12c, though some may argue it is only .12b because of the rests.  Anyway you call it, it is a challenging redpoint that starts hard, stays hard, and saves the hardest for last.

Presto

Halloween

Monkey Wrench

Anarchy in the UK

Power Trip

Mayhem

Question Authority

#IDidItForTheLikes (Wider At The Bottom)

Above All Authority

Anarchy Rules

Anarchitect

Anarkhia

Maestro

Anatomic

Anarchy in the UK - Left variation start

Hazardous Waste

Crackpot

Matriarch

Day of the Dead

Chaos

This is a link-up.

Start on

Matriarch

, traverse right after the dyno and into the alcove, then finish on

Maestro

. This climbs and protects well. I was surprised that this link-up wasn't already on here, as I'm sure it's been done many times. It's a bit harder than

Matriarch

with the

Maestro

finish, but I believe the rest in the alcove keeps it from being a 13a.

This route is just right, and down from the Anarchy wall, by about 50 feet.  It makes a good warm up for the harder climbs that are on that rock.

When you approach the Anarchy wall, instead of scrambling up the hillside, just walk around on the flat ground to the right of the crag, and there is a short bolted route in an alcove.  Gets a lot of shade like the rest of the crag.

Pretty straight forward steep jug climbing capped by a short overhang at the top.  Establishing under the roof is probably the crux, then a jug haul over the roof. Cruiser.  The line can be climbed in a couple different ways.  Not sure what the official rating is, but it is probably a 5.7 or so?

Personally, this is my least favorite line on the wall.  It climbs up a sloping shelf (just left of the center of the wall) to a crack for a few moves,  but then it becomes an awkward slopefest. There are definitely better lines on the wall.

Two tricky cruxes, one is very thin and balancy while the other is powerful and bouldery.  A good route but the second clip can be intimidating.

This is the second bolted line from the left end of the wall. (

Hazardous Waste

is on the far left).  Probably the best 12a on the wall with good bolts and fun moves.  A wild crux sequence gains the anchors.

This almost qualifies as a bolted boulder problem.  Interesting, thin moves run straight up past the bolts.  You can come in from the right, but it sets up better from below on the left.  To quote Mark Rolofson's description: "Short, but sweet".

This is short offwidth boulder problem, that is obvious to see from the trail before you reach the main wall. I employed every offwidth technique: armbars, stacks, chickenwings, kneebars,

etc

. Anyone looking for easy offwidth practice, look no further. Walk off the top.

This is a short, powerful route up the hill from the main Anarchy Wall. A few long pulls on okay holds will get you to the lip pretty quickly.

This is a good, hard route.  The moves are sustained and non-positive. Once you start moving, keep climbing and it will eventually get better (at the anchors!!!). Overall, a good challenge.

This is one of the classic sport routes of its grade in the state, let alone the canyon. With a thuggish start, balancy crux, and sustained climbing above with a dicey throw to a break, Anarchitect is the best route on the Anarchy Wall.

Anarkhia: the state of a society being without authorities or an authoritative governing body. A fitting name for the year of the first ascent.

Come prepared with your technical climbing skills and crimp power for this one! This route has a hard, sustained crux section on good stone that uses a variety of crimps, undercling edges, pinches, and smeary feet. Cold temps and fresh skin will make the holds a little easier to grab.

This was a project for around 20 years or so, but that's a total guess. I'm assuming the original developers of this wall worked on this line and were also the people who put in the two or three "working bolts." I got a permit to bolt the entire line, so I cleaned it, removed the old bolts, and bolted it to the top of the wall. It turned out pretty cool and is a great addition to the crag. Around the first bolt there is a ledge to the right, I did not use it, and I don't think it would really help unless you find something that I didn't. It climbs much better staying left, directly on the bolt line anyway!

Follow

Presto

to the alcove. Reach up out right for the fifth clip, then work up sloping rounded sidepulls and underclings until the bolt is at your feet and you realize there's no way to let go. Stare at the slot overhead, then launch a committing right-hand throw for a jam. Stick the jam or go for an exciting ride. Pull up past the last bolt onto a sloping ledge, then work some sidepulls on the left to stand up and clip the anchor.

This is a tough traversing route that starts on

Monkey Wrench

(11c), and traverses to the left end of the wall ending at the anchors on

Hazardous Waste

.  A series of difficult "negatives" describes the start of this pumpfest that connects the cruxes of all four routes on this portion of the wall.  This is the hardest of a number of traverse variation routes on Anarchy Wall.

I'm adding this to help people separate the original (actual)

Anarchy in the UK

and this variation, which I know is also commonly climbed (there are references to a left start on some comments to

AITUK

, and a video link there shows the climber on this variation). It avoids the lower crux on

AITUK

. To my eye, the variation is the more direct, obvious climbing line (and avoids a slightly contrived but excellent traverse), but it's distinctly left of

AITUK

bolts. I led with the 2nd bolt on

AITUK

pre-clipped (you could clip on lead, just need to reach); others use some

Power Trip

bolts. The picture shows the general line of the handholds of the variation with red dots and original in blue dots; I put each color dot at the merge hold. The ropes are hanging on

Power Trip

(left rope) and

AITUK

(right rope) for more reference. Note the red dot holds are not the standard holds for Power Trip, but it would be possible to climb the start of Power Trip into the merge hold or thereabouts.  This variation and the original line are of similar quality to me, although if you can do it, you'll want to do original.  Variation is another, easier warm-up option for those doing harder lines.

This is the warm-up route for the wall.  There are a variety of sequences for the crux, some make it significantly harder.  It is not the best route on the wall but a decent route with a few interesting moves.

This is an extended start to "

Presto

", yielding the longest route on the wall.  Start in the crack to the right of "

Anarchitect

".  Slippery 5.11 jams lead up left to "

Anarchitect

", then jamming and faceclimbing along the crack system lead over to the alcove on "

Presto

".  Carry on up "

Presto

" to the hooks at the top of the wall.  Cleaning the route poses a challenge (much the same as for "

Anatomic

").  Other variations are possible, finishing up "

Maestro

" or "

Anarchitect

".

When Kurt Smith bolted

Presto

, I was a little disappointed because he added only one route where I figured there could be two.  Matriarch was conceived as a direct start to Presto.  Challenging moves put you on a sloping ledge.  Step left, then work up a small right-facing arch to the crux dyno for slopers.  A few quick pulls deposit you in the lay-down rest on

Presto

, but the climbing isn't over.  Two more .12 cruxes on the upper half of

Presto

(with another great rest in between) take you to the anchor hooks and a free-hanging drop to the base.

Pretty chossy, belayer beware. Could be cleaned up a bit. Two bolts at the top but no chains, best to rap off the anchors for Halloween.

This ascends a short, crimpy wall with a long reach off an undercling. It is fun climbing--many will feel it to be easier than advertised, but others will be put off by the size of the holds. Do it in July if it still feels too easy.

Description

Protection

Routes in Anarchy Wall