A climb on good rock that has a very thin but well protected crux .On a very warm day the FA party had numerous "slips" from the crux,perhaps less difficult in cooler conditions?  This Sinister Slab area now has a collection of some of the best pure slab routes on the Reef.Starts about 50'up to the left of the climb Faith Hope and Clarity, small cairn. Look for two thin dark vertical intrusions

P1)Three pro bolts on this pitch the first at about 35'.From the second bolt climb straight up and the third bolt will come into view. Continue up to double anchors. 160' 5.8-R

P2)Go straight up very easy rock to where the slab steepens .From here climb at 5.5 for about 30' to double anchors.200' 5.5/6.

P3) Straight up passing one bolt to a line of four bolts which forms the crux section (30' of sport climbing!) . Above the forth bolt the climbing eases, climb passed three more pro bolts to double anchors. 170'5.11

P4)Continue straight above, two short 5.7 sections passing a bolt at about a 100'then to double anchors (same anchors as route to the left "Return of the Crocks")180' 5.7+R.

Descent:-Two raps from these anchors,a scramble to top of first pitch ,then to ground. Note from the top of P4 one can forth class up open slabs to the summit of the formation and great views

Persistence.

Faith Hope and Clarity

Dedication.

Sinister Slab

Slabtastic

Seduction of Stone

No Where To Run

Just Dreams

Return of the Crocks

Return of the Crocks. II 5.8RStarts at the southern end of the  Sinister Slab formation at the top of the talus wave. The third pitch is an obvious slim left facing corner in the center of the face.Cairn marks the start.  Nice climbing good situations.

P1). Climb a shallow groove then up an easy slab to another larger groove to double anchors above a flake on the left. 190'5.2.

P2) Straight up to a 50'traverse right that leads to the foot of the left facing corner with double anchors. 150'5.4.

P3) Up the corner to anchors at its top. 130'5.6.

P4) The angle steepens. Climb to a bolt at 20' then runout up the slab to good ledge and anchors . 160'5.8R.

4th class from here about 800' to the summit of the slab.

Descent: 4th class to top of pitch 4 then 3 raps to the ground.

Takes a line between Return of the Crocks and Sinister Slab. A classic slab route...  good rock .Start at the lowest point of the slab between the two waves .Small cairn.

P1)Easy climbing to a bolt at 40',then straight up passing two more bolts to double anchors.170'5.8R

P2)Scramble easy slab passed small bushes to stance behind large flake on the right 140'

P3)Climb into the obvious shallow groove passed a bolt at about 110' then hand traverse left into another open groove. Pass another bolt then continue up groove to hanging belay.200'5.8R

P4)Move up right to a bolt near a pot hole then traverse right into and enter another groove .Up this to a rounded ledge, then right again to yet another groove follow this to double anchors.200' 5.7R.

From here one can 4th class about 700' to a fine summit.

Descent .One can rap the route or straight across south about 80' is the set up rap anchors of Return of the Crocks. To reach these climb an easy slab up to the left then easy down climb to anchors.Two raps to the foot of the prominent groove ,then rap to the top of pitch one of Faith Hope and Clarity. Rap to the ground..

Hike about 20 mins north from the three fingers canyon. to a slab formation left(south) of the Sinister Slab formation. The climb is recognized by dark swirls of rock at its base .. Starts below the middle swirls at the top of the limestone wave.

P1) Climb straight up for about 40' then start angling left passed a small bush heading towards the bottom of a black chimney/groove to a bolt belay. 180' 5,7R.

P2). From the bolt move up a few feet then right into a fine open clean groove which is followed to a ledge and bolt belay 100' 5.6.

P3) . Easy climbing to a bolt at 100'. The rock gets steeper enter a groove which is followed to a bolt belay.160' 5.7+R.

P4) Straight up to a groove then to a ledge and bolt belay 200' 5.2.

P5)Pleasant 800' of 4th class to the summit.

Descent :- . The raps are down low angled slabs from good but singe bolts. The nervous may want to bring a hand drill and some small angle pitons.

P1).Straight up from the top of the wave to a spike belay.200'5.6R.

P2).Continue straight up an climb the groove on the left of the large obelisk. 200' 5.7R.

P3).Up the easy groove then the slab on the right to a single bolt belay. 200'5.5R.

P4) Straight up the open slab to a ledge and single bolt belay 160'5.4.

P5).Easy slab to a big ledge 200'5.0.

P6).Forth class 250' to the summit,which is gained by climbing the far side (50'). One may need a rope for this last section.

Descent Rap the route.

Starts about 50' to the right of Just Dreams below a flake at about 40' up.

P1)Climb to the left side of the flake and follow three bolts to double anchors at the foot of a low angle groove. (Same belay as Just Dreams)140'5.6R.

P2)Move up to the right up very easy rock via yellow slab to double anchors below the impressive steep slab to the right of Just Dreams groove.240'5.3.

P3) A fine classic pitch on excellent rock.From the belay go straight up and follow 4/5 bolts to double anchors below a clean shallow groove.200' 5.8+R.

P4)Follow groove and the fine slab above straight up to double anchors.150' 5.4R,no pro.

Descent:- Rap the Route. From just above the top anchors one can 4th class about 700' up to a nice summit and more great views.

P1.Climb a 50' left facing corner then step left into a groove. Up this to an obvious crack/corner. 5.6 180ft

P2.Follow corner then step out left on to a big ledge. 5.7 200ft

P3.Easy scramble to below big open slabs. 60ft

P4.Straight up slab to a big pothole and bolt belay. 5.4R  200ft

P5.Continue up slab to bolt belay. 5.5R 180ft

P6.Easy slab to big ledge. 5.3 180ft

P7.Up slab to corner with bushes to ledge. 5.0 200ft

P8.Long 4th class to the ridge. The knife edge summit can be gained by an easy but exposed ramp on the left or slabs to the right. 400ft

Register in cairn.

A fairly easy route with great situations.

Descent: 4th class and rap the route.

Starts at the top of the wave(cairn) about 200' to the right of the route "Dedication"."No Where To Run" was climbed in 'very ' warm conditions.

P1) Straight up the middle of the slab where it forms a blunt ridge to reach double anchors. 180'5.6.

P2)From the belay traverse slightly down about 20' to the right to a small gray groove . Follow this then left to a sandy flake in the center of the slab . Up this to a bolt then 20' to double anchors on a good ledge. 160' 5.8+R.

P3)Easier climbing up a shallow groove towards the base of the upper groove system. 200'5.5.

P4)Smear up the groove passed pro bolts . When the bolt at the top right of the groove is reached traverse about 15' straight right to the edge and another bolt. Continue up the edge passed one more bolt(one may want to unclip the first bolt on the edge to lessen rope drag) to double anchors at two prominent pot holds. 170' 5.10R.

Descent :- Rap the route

Situated on the Sinister Slab formation. Approach from the Three Finger Canyon trail .About quarter mile before the entrance walk north for about 20 mins.Starts 50' right of "Faith Hope and Clarity" The climb is on good rock and has two excellent slab pitches

(P1.Climb up past a bolt at 30'. Then a .75"Cam to another bolt.Continue to double anchors. 170'5.8R

(P2.Easy grooves and slab lead to a black block below the right hand slim clean groove.(the grooves on the left are Faith Hope and Clarity) Double anchors. 250 5.2.

(P3.Superb pitch ,quite sustained. Climb the slab for about 50' to the entrance of the groove. Up the groove ,at the third bolt move out of the groove to the right to another bolt.Continue delicately passed two more bolts then enter the wide groove follow this to double anchors.200' 5.9R.

(P4.Follow the fine slim groove and slab to double anchors. 100'5.6R

Descent:-Across to the south about 100' are rap anchors of Return of the Crocks . Use these .Two raps to reach  ledges then scrable down to more anchors ,from here one rap down FHC first pitch to ground.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in L Crags (Sinister Slab Area)