Sport route with good movement and bolts where you'd want them. The route to the chains follows a crack- mostly fingers with some hands/offwidth near the top. There are plenty of face holds and solid feet the whole way up.

I prefer to lead it as a trad route, where it holds the same grade- maybe a tad harder (.10a?) in one section about 2/3 of the way up, but only if you're sticking entirely to jams. The reason for this being it requires 3 straight finger jams way over your head, one on top of another, with semi-awkward feet (but not awkward if you escape the crack and grab the crimp).

In general, the rock is pretty solid- very solid by Vantage's standards. A #0.2 placement is available about parallel with the (low!) first bolt, though it's kind of hard to find. It won't protect you from decking for very long, but you won't go rolling down the hill... From there, I use doubles and sometimes triples of #0.3 & #0.4 in the finger crack, depending on how much I want to sew it up. Supplement with stoppers, as needed. At the top, there's an OW section that I usually protect with a #0.75 at the bottom, but I once plugged a #1. I think a #3 or #4 would work in that same area, but I've never tried it. The 3' below the chains is kinda chossy, so be careful.

Gets full sun in the summer beginning late morning, and it's hot.

Corner of Shattered Delights

Scream of The Butterfly

Far Point Station

People climbing this route tend to rain rocks on a popular area below, so please avoid it on busy weekends.

Fun route following crack that varies in size as it goes up. Interesting movement with everything from bomber fists to fingers and even offwidth in parts. Face holds are there but climb delicately, as some incuts are very thin and could break. Be prudent with your gear and back up where the rock seems weak.

Shoutout to Oren Cowlishaw and Leland Windham for dropping some serious knowledge and helping make this FA a reality.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shattered Columns