This has decent rock and very solid gear, if you have the right stuff. I wasn't able to finish it, since I didn't have the right gear to make safe enough for me to commit. A #5 C4 would help a lot. It looks as though only the first half is spicy as there are good cracks on the second half.

North Lieback

Temple of the Dog

Bustin' Move

The Damage Done

Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab

Momentary Lapse of Ethics

Descent Route

Suburban Hangover

South Face

The Damage Done is a great, all-around route. It has two equally challenging but distinctly different types of climbing on it. The bottom half is requires balancy but powerful moves on pretty large holds for a 5.11. The second half is more face climbing on thin crimpy holds. It's a short, four (now 5) bolts to the anchor route, that can also be toproped, if desired. Trying to set up the top rope can be just a cruxy as the climb itself.

You can set up for a rappel from the main top rope anchors at the top of the rock that can be easily approached by the 5th class ramp. You will need to toss the rope towards the Northeast part of the climb, below a pine tree. You rappel down to the the actual Damage Done anchors, tie in and rethread, then rappel off. When rappeling down the the anchors, the rope drag can be bad. I have had to have my partners climb back up the ramp and help pull the rope several times.

Start on a right-facing slab and plug a large-ish cam in the corner (#1 or #1.5). Climb through moderate terrain, clipping two bolts and getting established on an overlap. From here, the crux begins and trends right towards the third bolt. A couple options exist, all involving crimps and a dynamic snatch. Continue to chains through 15 ft of easier, but still relatively difficult stone.

This is a fun route, and it's close to town. Definitely save it for that half day when you can't quite make the hike to the mega crags.

Start up easy ground to a high first bolt.  Clip and make some cool moves trending leftwards to the second and third bolts.  At the third bolt, commit to the crux a section of cool sidepulls and heelhooks with some long reaches.  Make a committing move to reach the fourth bolt and a good rest.  If working the route a long draw might be nice here so you can clip earlier.  Rest up, reach up and clip the 5th bolt, and commit to one more thin crimpy section.  Continue up on very easy ground to the anchors placed on nearly flat ground.

This was my favorite of the sport routes on the Needle, although we didn't try "

Temple of the Dog

."

This is the slab to the right of the overhung sport routes on the Needle.  Many variations can be made from this wall, and that makes it a great place for some beginners.  There are possibly 5.7-5.11 variations.  To set up the top rope, the ramp on the right side is an easy 5.0 scramble to the summit.

This is another classic route on The Needle that can be lead or top roped. The TR is the same approach as all the top ropes (up the 5th class ramp).  Rap off those anchors below

Damage Done

, throw it toward Lake Estes side.  Again, rappelling to the next anchors can create rope drag when trying to pull it, so be carefull not to get stuck.  The actual bottom part of the climb is seems like hard 10 moves.  You pull over a bulge on some crimpy holds, the climb lets up for about 10 feet and then you get to the cruxy section, which the angle kicks back a little and then kind of bulges out.  If you move to the left, it become 5.11a, move to the right 5.11d.  This will give you a good pump...watch out for the great swings you'll have if you fall off!

This is the line to the right of the

Uphill Slabs aka TR wall

.  It is probably the easiest way to the top of the rock.  Rossiter's guidebook rates it as 5.4.  Gillett's guidebook rates it as 5.0.  So, let's split the difference.  It probably depends on exactly where you stop, since getting to the first set of chains is a bit easier/less exposed than getting to the top.

Start just to the right of the shallow, right-facing dihedral/crescent of the north face of the rock.  Follow jugs up.  Not much pro until about 30 feet up.  Some cracks appear.  There are chains about 60 feet up.  There are also chains at the top of the rock.  Note, these are set back a bit, so you get a bit of rope drag.

Probably, most important, this is

not

the best route for a small kid, since the holds are fairly well-spaced.

Suburban Hangover is the first route you see on the Needle.  There are a series of seriously overhung sport routes and SH is the farthest to you left.  The crux is getting up to the first bolt.  A stick clip is highly recommended as a fall would be most painful.  Don't underestimate the 10c rating when bouldering up to the bolt.

Follow the crack/chimney formed by the right side of the pillar climbing either the crack or the face to the right of it to the top of the pillar.  This is easy (5.5ish) and can be protected here and there with wires and a chockstone.  The bolt just above the top of the pillar protects the crux of the climb which involves some steep face climbing with good holds. Keep heading straight up clipping one more bolt and one more piece of gear (wire) before arriving at the top.  There is no fixed anchor here so set up your own belay.

To descend, climb over the top (easy) to the chains on the N. face.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Needle