This is the green "E" line in the topo photo. This line is out of line with the top anchors so a little swing is involved if you come off. The climbing is straight forward.

Jakes Right

Two Mules for Sister Sara

The Shawn Davis Special

Davis Special Direct

Cut 'em off at the pass

The Grin Reaper

Direct start to the Shawn Davis Special. Climb through the tiered roofs to get to the right trending ramp. Mantle the ramp up to the thin seam at the back of the roof. Stand up on the ledge and move out the roof to the giant jugs. Reach over the roof to a bucket and pull on through. Finish it out to the top. The jugs at the lip of the roof are seemingly questionable and the first known ascentionist was a small guy so if you are not like him you may want to check things out a little.

Start at the left side of the cove where the triple roof is. Climb left on the slab and work around the left side of the roof. Make a longish move to access the right angling jug rail at the lip of the roof. Traverse right on the jugs to the notch. Within the notch are some mini jugs. Grab these and heel hook the flake with your left to make a longish rockover move up to a jug for the left hand. Follow jugs up to the "cave" in the wall. You will want to be on the right side of this cave. At this point, traverse right on jugs and wind your way up to the base of the left facing dihedral. Use the dihedral to gain the top anchors. This route has 2 cruxes. The first crux is at the roof and the second crux is at the finish in the crack.

Start in the dihedral to gain to the right trending ramp. Climb the ramp until you can mantle up to the thin seam at the back of the roof. Stand up on the ledge and move out the roof to the giant jugs. Reach over the roof to a bucket and pull on through. Finish it out to the top. The jugs at the lip of the roof are seemingly questionable and the first known ascentionist was a small guy so if you are not like him you may want to check things out a little.

This is the direct line through the roof for Two Mules for Sister Sara. It is line B (orange) in the topo photo. The crux is definitely going through the roof if you finish on Two Mules.... Start in the same place as for Two Mules... but stay in the dihedral as you head up and aim for the notch in the roof. The notch (or the pass) is where Two Mules and this route rejoin. The route may be 5.11- and not 5.10+, it will take consensus to settle on the grade. You could also finish to the left anchors (two zinc plated bolts, no rings/quicklinks) via line F (green).

This is the finish on line F (green) in the topo photo. Climb Two Mules... until you reach the "cave" in the wall. At the cave head up left to an arete with a clean dihedral to the right.

It is along the C&O canal, upstream of Shepherdstown, WV. The rock is limestone or possibly dolomite. This cliff will require cleaning and some climber traffic before it cleans up. Beware of loose holds. Wear a helmet.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shepherdstown Crag