The Gordian Knot. III 5.9 C1.(5.11) 530'... This route is different to the surrounding slab routes, the climbing is more spire like in nature. Takes a corner system up one of the interior walls of Three Finger Canyon.From the trail head at the mouth of Three Fingers follow the left side of the rock face up round the corner to a steep blank looking wall with 5 bolts that leads to a  corner with a thin crack..10 mins walk.

P1) Climb 8' to the first bolt and free and semi aid to the corner.( Parts of  bolt ladder were freed 5.10+  a couple very difficult moves remain... Now all free 5.11+).The groove is thin to start ,continue to double anchors. 100'5.9 C1

P2) Follow wide crack to bulge, over bulge then right into corner . Easier climbing above leads to double anchors. 100'5.9.

P3)Straight up nice stemming corner and crack to bolt anchors on the right. 60' 5.7+.

P4) Traverse up a groove on the left to a ledge . A steep friable wall leads into an easy grove to a massive ledge ,block belay. 80' 5.7R (Rap anchors are located about 40' on the edge up to the right).Walk 250' right along the ledge to below the corner.

P5) Do not up the easy looking corner but traverse up the slabs to the left passing a pine tree .Just passed this climb up to another groove , then around the corner to a groove that leads to the summit.A 3.5 cam can be use for an anchor. 190'.5.4........

Descent. The rap anchors are located about 30' above along the rim on a flat section.A 180' rap to the big ledge, then scramble down to anchors above pitch 4 . Continue straight down the route.  Paul Ross Layne Potter.. 13/4/04

The Gordian Knot

Tres Amigos

Comedy of Errors

Tread Lightly.

Sprogg's Day Out

Curiosity Killed The Cat

Curiosity Killed the Rat

Team 500

Ziggurat  5.11

Planetary Alignment

Rat Catcher

Rat in the Hat

The Hollow Men

Diagon Alley

The Crack

Zenith

Rat Trap

1000' of Fun

Xerophyte 5.8

Ms.Taken

Cat Walk.

Blockbuster.

Reptilian Curiosity

Knights-Errant

Chad, Brad, & Brock

Fall Not

Pegasus

Lotto Balls

Necropolis

Perhaps Not

1200' of more Fun

The Wilting Flower

The Cat's Me-ow.

Top Hat on the Rat.

Really nice crimping up this slab sport route. It's almost a full 35-meters, so a 70-meter rope is required to lower off. The majority of the route is consistent at the grade.

Someone retro-bolted an anchor at the top of the first pitch for

Perhaps Not

.

This can be used to lower off

Chad, Brad, & Brock

. Heads up, it's a bit of a run from the last bolt to the ledge at the top of the pitch, but there is a nice crack that finishes off the pitch, which will fit a cam. While the crack at the top is the most secure climbing on the pitch, there is a bit of rotten rock pulling onto the belay ledge, so use caution.

A system of slabby ramps meanders up the rock on the right side of Three Finger Canyon to reach the summit of the formation. Climbing ranges from 4th class-5.5. Future climbers will likely find their own adventure on the way up as they search for the path of least resistance.

Descent from the top of the formation can be made off the west side of the formation via a series of rappels

The climb is located on a previously unclimbed crag through the Three Finger Canyon on its left side, directly across from the 1000' of Fun formation. Walk through the canyon until past a low angle gully, then follow this on its right side to the foot of the crag about 15 minutes from the entrance. One of the few climbs in the area that can be climbed and rapped down with a single 60m rope.

P1) Start up the slab about 40' left of its lowest point. Climb up through a gap in a small overlap and continue up the slab with some cam protection to a bolt and then past this to double anchors. 150' 5.8

P2) Head up and right to a bolt at 40 'where a tricky move gets you on a rising ledge. Keep traversing right passing a second bolt and mid size cam placements. Make another tricky move getting off the ledge onto a big ramp system which leads to the belay. 170' 5.8+

P3) Move left and climb onto a block, then back right into the corner and a bolt. Long slings helpful on this section. Some great climbing up the corner (good cams) leads to awkward pulling out of the corner(bolt) onto the face. Romp up the face passing another bolt to some belay shrubs well back from the lip. 200' 5.9

Cleaning off a loose block chopped a new trail rope, hence the name of the climb.

Descent: From the top belay, scramble down the terrace to the left until it narrows towards its end. Look left and a small cairn marks rap anchors for a single 60m rope to tree ledges that lead back to the start of the climb.

Located on The Berghaus Wall ,in Three Finger Canyon. A climb with some well protected but delicate moves.Perhaps less difficult for a long reach?.Takes the obvious steep right facing groove/crack in the center of the slab.

P1)Easy slab to first bolt then two more to the top of the corner. From here pleasant 5.7 climbing  straight up ,then slightly left to broken crack ,up from this passed one more bolt to double anchors. 140'5.9

Three Fingers Canyon . The climb is located on the Berghaus Wall .Walk through the canyon and hike up the first talus on the right (north). Starts as for Rat in the Hat. The climb is named after the FA of "The Sprogg" 5.9  on Eagle Crag in the English Lake District by Paul Ross and Paul Nunn in June 1965 to commemorate  the birth of the Sprogg, ie Andy .

P1). Climb past a bolt at 15' and continue up easy slab on the right with a few cam placements . When about 30' from the anchors of Rat in the Hat go left up a steeper slab to a good ledge and double anchors.150' 5.6R.

P2). Climb past two bolts above the belay into a left leaning groove ,about 10' is a bit sandy but well protected with cams to double anchors below the right leaning low angle crack.70' 5.9.

P3)Follow slab right of crack to the summit and register.60' 5.5. Descent.

Rap with two 60m ropes from the top anchors to the ground.

A fine route with great situations. Starts up the long line of left leaning pot holes.

P1)Climb to a bolt at 25' . Continue past a total of six pro bolts to double anchors. 170'5.9.

P2)Climb steeply up three holes then traverse right passed one bolt to another line of pot holes ,follow this line passed one more bolt to block belays on a large ledge.180'5.7+

P3)Drop down onto the white slab ,climb up to the right and follow easy slab to natural anchors below the steep groove system .Natural belay.200'5.4 no pro.

P4)Enter the groove from the right and follow the left exposed edge with difficulty ..Total of three bolts and some cam placements to ledge and natural belay.180'5.9+.

P5)Scramble up right to a smooth v groove up this at its top a  bolt (this bolt was placed on the FA of Raptilian Curiosity that comes up from the open groove down to the left.) this protects a 5.8 move over to the ridge on the right.Contine up easy ground to natural belay.200'5.8.

P6)Easy climbing along the left side of the ridge to junction with the top of 1000'of Fun.180'

Descent.:- Five raps down 1000' of Fun

The three one pitch climbs that  are found  on this slab very well protected by bolts and the odd cam . Ideal for those who prefer to stay away from the run out climbs, and get some experience with the rock and grades of the Reef. Starts to the left of the open slab first Bolt at about 20' See Beta Photo's.

P1) Follow 9 bolts to a high shallow groove trending  left to double anchors . 180' 5.9

Named, as this was Paul Ross's 500th first ascent.

Ranging from many in the UK to New Hampshire, Maine, Nevada, Min, Quebec, Morocco,and now the south western States. His first FA was in 1954. Many thanks to the team from Salt Lake. The climb is located at the back of the slabs on a previously unclimbed area with many more objectives. See approach.

P1)Climb into the crack in the very obvious corner,this is protected with cams to a bolt where the crack closes. From the bolt climb left of it on no more than dimples ,until a leap can be made to good holds on the right.Continue from here up flakes  to double anchors.100' 5.11-.

P2)From belay move up to the right towards the slim crack groove up to the right to large block belays.50'5.5.

P3)Move into the indefinate crack and passed 2/3 bolts to double anchors at the summit.150'5.8+R

Rap route.

The climb is located starting at a 5.8 offwidth about 400' left of Team 500 and just right of an obvious steep hand/fist crack (#501).The climb is well protected.

P1) Climb up the offwidth to a bolt protecting a steep groove. Climb past this (crux)to double anchors.100' 5.11.

P2)Enter the groove system and follow 6 pro bolts ,sustained climbing leads to the summit anchors and great views to the East.150'5.11

Rap route.

'Planetary Alignment'II 5.7......... Located at the rear of Three Finger Canyon. Easily visable from the entrance to the canyon ,10 min walk. The chimney and left slanting crack on the facing wall as one walks into the canyon.This relativly short Chimney and Crack route makes a change from the longer slab climbs. Good rock..

P1)Up a short slab then climb the Chimney , a little strenious, to natural cam belays at its top. 140'5.7.

P2)Follow the left slanting crack and groove to a cave ,cam belays. 200' 5.6.

P3). Move out left and easy climbing up a groove leftwards to the rim and a ledge with rap anchors. 160' 5.2.....

Descent. 200' ropes come up about 25' short of the ground, Climb carefully 4th class directly down the groove . First Ascent Paul Gardner, Paul Ross (Alt leads) ... Mar. 20th 2004.

Located in the Three Fingers Canyon. The climb is across the talis to the East of 1000' of Fun.The Berghaus Wall. After entering the canyon scramble up the talis below the slabs on the right for about 500yds to a large pine beside a big block.

P1)Follow the ramp/slab that lies above a steep long wall that trends up to the right to around a corner where the slab narrows to ledge and double anchors. 190' 5.6/7R

P2).Climb up to the black slab below a crack trending right to double anchors below a steeper short dark brown corner. 65' 5.8.

P3). Awkward moves passed a pro bolt to gain easier climbing ,then move right along a ledge to another pro bolt that protects delicate moves up a short slab 160' 5.9/10.Continue to summit and double anchors . Register in small cairn down to left.

Descent .. Rap the route.

Starts same as Rat Catcher for a few feet to a bolt (Rat Catch follows easy slab to right) then continue straight up following bolts towards the obvious corner crack at the top of the climb.P1) Pass a bolt at about 15' then a 4" cam placement . Follow bolts  to the corner that has a couple of small cam placements to double anchors.170' 5.9-. (A second pitch has been climbed May 7th @ 5.10)

A climb with great situations .A bit of hollow rock here and there but of good tecture.Start at the very foot of the ridge.

P1)Move out along a foot traverse and climb past 4 pro bolts ,then past two more bolts to reach double anchors on the edge. 190' 5.9.

P2) Follow the arete first left then right passed a bolt to double anchors. 160' 5.7.

P3)Move right then cross over to the left side of the ridge and climb the groove to a good ledge and natural belays (thread and #4 friend)200' 5.6R.

P4)Just right of the belay climb up passed  a bolt, trend left up to the knife edge and another bolt .Continue along the exposed ridge then traverse right towards the large groove about 30' below a bush in the groove are double anchors.Junction with the top of pitch 3 of "Fall Not".180.5.7.

P5.Easy climbing up the left side of the groove .200'5.2.P6)More easy climbing along the ridge to junction with the top of the climb 1000' of Fun. 200'5.2.

Descent:- Five raps down 1000'of Fun.

A fun pitch up a diagonal ramp along a corner/crack. Layback the crack or use the face holds on the slab.

Another single pitch route on the Berghaus Wall area.A pleasant groove and crack climb with  natural protection.

P1.Up the slab to the groove that leads to double anchors below the Crack. 5.5 85'

P2)The crack ,exit right a few feet from the top to double anchors. 5.9+ 100.

Descent . With one 60m rope rap to top of P1 then to ground.

The 150' second pitch of this climb is one of the best in the area.The FA was climbed ground up on sight,all pro placed on lead.Starts about 400' further up the gully from Blockbuster.

P1)Climb steeply passed two bolts Continue up the slab passing one more bolt and cam placements towards the foot of the obvious open groove. Good ledge double anchors.150' 5.10.

P2)Enter and climb the groove ,sustained climbing on quality rock passed 7 bolts and cam placements to double anchors.170' 5.11+. Register above belay.

Descent 200' rap from the top anchors.

Starts in the center of the slab and heads directly towards  thin crack /flakes near the top of the climb.

P1)Follow 9 bolts passing over a small overlap to the flakes (crux).The flakes appear friable but are very well protected. Step right when passed the flakes to double anchors.165'5.10- (A Wild Second pitch may be possible!)

1000' of Fun. 1000' II 5.6. Located through Three Finger Canyon. From I-70 entrance drive 6.1 miles to a right turn, take this for 2 miles (4x4) to park at the entrance to Three Finger. 15 minutes walk to the unmistakable white colored angling slab that cuts up to the right through the chocolate rock. An easy fun route that only has a couple of 5.6 moves, the climb where needed is pretty much well protected. A good introduction to the sandstone alps!

Note . On June 17th 2003 Paul Ross and Layne Potter climbed this route not knowing that the route had been soloed both up and down as no rap or belay bolts were in place. So this description of the route is by Ross and Potter. When Ben Folsom and Mark Owen soloed up the climb they assumed they could traverse off and walk down from the summit, when they could not they had to face the gripping down climb.

P1) Easy slab up the massive water-worn groove system to bolt anchors. 200' 5.2

P2) More easy slab. 200' 5.3

P3) More clean pleasant slab to a ledge below the big chimney. 200' 5.3

P4) Do not enter the chimney, but follow huecos up a steep step to the right (5.6), and continue to anchors. 200' 5.6

P5) From anchors move over the delicate slab to the left and climb an unprotected 5.5 slab to easier rock and the summit. 200' 5.5

NOTE... May 15th 2020. According to "Not Hobo Greg", one can continue at 5.5R from the last belay and join the easier climbing at the top of 1200 of Fun , and descend the gully instead of rapping back down the climb ... See his latter posts for his description.  I do not think this has not been confirmed by any other parties so proceed with caution...

The ascent as described took 2 hours. Descend the route via rappel. Second ascent. Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 17th June 2003.

Hidden Wall ,Three Fingers Canyon. About 400' left of Ziggurat see topo photo.This part of the crag has two obvious corners one facing left the other right. The left facing unclimbed corner system appears to offer some very difficult climbing. The right facing corner is the climb described.

P1) Enter enter the main groove  via a crack with a flake at about 20' up.Climb passed the flake and up to a pro bolt at abot 80'. Move up and right from this then back into the groove /corner that is followed to a ledge on the left ,here is double anchors. 170'5.8.

P2) Move back into the groove and follow this moving slightly left near the top that leads to the summit and fine views to the East.80' 5.7.

Rap the route.

A single long pitch along a ramp system places you on a ledge on pitch 2 of Perhaps Not.

Stem and face climb up the white ramp using the left hand wall of darker rock when the ramp becomes blank.

Make moves up a couple of short head walls to reach a large ledge with an old, fixed anchor consisting of rope and stoppers.

Fair rock quality.

Starts 60' left of Reptilian Curiosity.

P1)Up to a bolt at about 25' towards large potholes Follow past two more bolts then easier climbing leads to double anchors.160'5.7.

P2)Continue out left passed a bolt then follow the line of holes to block anchors on a large rocky ledge. 150'5.6.

Descent.:- Forth class down the blocky groove to the ground.

A superb well protected sustained pitch on good rock.Climbed on sight pro placed on lead.The first of four FA's over the Memorial weekend.

P1)Climb up to a bolt at 20' then up to the top of a massive spiked block. Now follow the slim groove trending slightly left .A total of 8 pro bolts and two cam place placements to double anchors below the head wall.

Rap the route.

Starts up the slab above and to the left(South)of the entrance to Three Fingers Canyon. About a 3 minute walk from ones truck.A good adventure route with fine situations.

(P1. Climb the slab to a slanting crack up to the right At one point step up out of the indefinite crack and up a slab to a good ledge and double anchors. 190'5.6

(P2.Move belay along the ledge for about 100' to a bolt anchor below the big groove. Climb corner and slab into the main groove(good pro in the groove)Climb the groove then exit via the right wall up and around the corner.Easy traverse right ,then up short crack and back left to double anchors on top of the protruding horn.160'5.7.

(P3 High step into easy open groove and follow to double anchors. 150' 5.4/5

(P4.From belay move directly left and climb into the obvious groove above. Follow groove on its right edge past a pro bolt up to double anchors on a good ledge.170'5.9-R

(P5. Up slab on the right then move back up to the left and follow grooves to the summit cairn (register)and double anchors. (Rap anchors of the route Gordian Knot).200'5.4.

Descent:-One can Rap down the steep Gordian Knot ,but much easier to walk up the slabs south for about 200' to find double anchors on the left edge above the route "Come Up Pence". Three Raps to the ground.

Located on the recently developed Berghaus Wall ,Three Fingers Canyon.Starts a few feet left of "The Crack".see photo.Easy climbing to the first bolt at about 20' then follow four more bolts and the odd cam placement to double anchors.180' 5.9- Descent Rap the route.

Located in Three Fingers Canyon. Takes a line to the left of "1000'of Fun".. (The climb was done in 104 in the shade temps ,it saved taking a jacket.) Starts 30' to the left of this route. The climbing is quite good more so on pitch 3 ,however parts of the climb is a bit flakey,still lots of fun ..

P1) Follow the gray steaked slab that runs just left of the 1000' of Fun groove ,to double anchors. 200' 5.6R.

P2)Continue towards a ledge above a fairly prominate left leaning flake. 170'5.5R..

P3).Straight up from the belay towards a massive left leaning flake . Before one enters a smooth groove directly below the flake move out left and climb the steep wall on small flake holes untill one can move back right above the flake to double anchors. 200' 5.7+R.

P4).Go easily up the ridge to big boulder in groove .natural belay 200' 5.0.

P5). Straight up ,move around ridge to left and junction with top of the cairn(register)of "1000'of Fun". 200' 5.0..

Rap anchors up to the right. Descent... 5 raps down "1000'of Fun"

Named after a climb on Scawfell in the English Lake District ,first climbed in 1952 by the late Peter Greenwood my climbing mentor.Situated at the right end of the Berghaus Wall,about 30' down to the right of "The Crack".

P1)Climb into a shallow groove ,easy climbing to a bolt at about 25'.From here follow about 12 bolts to double anchors. An interesting pitch worth doing as a single pitch route. 160'5.10-.

P2) Move up and over right from the belay to double anchors.50' 5.3.

P3) A sustained pitch.Climb to the triangular roof and pull this to a fine hand crack. Up this and enter the larger crack system follow this to double anchors.150'5.10.

P4)Continue up a short section of poor rock but well protected by a bolt and cams to the summit.60'5.10.Register in small cairn about 15' above anchors.

Descent :- Rap the route.Due to the angle the FA party down climbed the second pitch to the final rap anchors.

A sport pitch near the mouth of Three Finger Canyon with iron concretion holds reminiscent of Red Rocks. Fun! If only it was longer.

A superb climb on excellent rock.An impressive ground up on sight lead by Lance.Starts about 400' left around the corner from The Cat's Meow and a few feet right of Blockbuster on the imposing open slab.

P1) Climb to a bolt at about 15' then steeply passed two more bolts. Continue passed six more pro bolts and a couple of cam placements to double anchors at the foot of the obvious right leaning corner. 145' 5.11

P2)From the anchors move up to the right,then out right for about 25',then straight up over the top lip of the corner ,continue to summit (total four pro bolts some cams)to double anchors.75'5.11+.

Descent: Rap 200' from the summit anchors to an easy scramble to the ground.

Three Finger Canyon. Eastern Reef Slab Area.Located on the left side of the canyon just 10 mins walk from the parking area at the mouth of the canyon.Go into the canyon and walk up the talus and follow crag botton to an obvious ramp with a hand crack at about 100' up..This route joins The Gordian Knott route at the top of P4 at the Big Ledge .

Note.Many of these Swell routes are sandstone climbs of pure adventure, good rock, bad rock,run outs etc,and not to be confused or compared with the sport type climbs of Indian Creek and Potash Rd. The grades may not appear high but one will usually  find plenty of situations that require the climbers full attention .  .Like the GK this climb is  not a friction slab route .

P1). Climb the ramp/corner passing a nice hand crack at mid height to a good ledge below a roof (Friends 21/2, 31/2 and 11/2, cam belays) 190' 5.8

P2).Awkward move to enter the groove which is followed passing a pro bolt at 40'( a couple of aid moves on this pitch were followed free)Continue up corner to good ledge, cam anchors. 100' 5.9 C1.

P3).Climb the open easy groove to the big ledge . Block belay 80'5.4.(GK joins at this ledge from the groove on the right.) Rap anchors up to the right.

P4) Walk along ledge 200' to the corner (this corner could be used as an independent finish )The FA party followe P5 of GK. Climb slab to left to pine tree ,up short wall to another groove ,the left around the corner . Follow easy groove to top. 180' 5.4.Cam belays.

Rap anchors further up the rim on flat section.  FA. Paul Ross , Paul Gardner Alt Leads.April 27th 2004

AKA:

Needle Ridge

, Starts just right of 1000' of Fun and climbs the long ridge. This is one of the few climbs in this area that one can walk off instead of rapping. However from the top of pitch 5 one could make a short rap to link onto the top anchors of 1000' of Fun and take five raps down that route.1200' is a sister route to 1000' of Fun with a little more commitment but even better views and situations

P1)Follow the easy rounded slab for about 60' to a bolt ,move down to the left to a lower slab then up a open groove passed two more bolts to double anchors.185'5.5/6R.

P2)From the belay climb passed a bolt and move up to the right to the upper ramp. Two more bolts are passed to double anchors.5.6/7R 200'

P3)The angle eases . Follow pleasant slab to double anchors 5.3R

P4)Continue passed a block in the groove and moderate climbing on excellent rock to double anchors.5.4R 200'

P5) Straight up keeping to the left edge of a fine open slab to double anchors.(One will see about 40' down to the left the anchors at the top of 1000' of Fun)5.5R 200'

P6) Climb across to the right from the anchors ,the up to a single bolt ,passed this up onto the ridge and to the summit anchors. 5.6/7 200'. Register in small cairn just above the belay.

Descent:

Scramble 60' to junction with the "Walk in the Park Gully" Walk down this (30 mins) to the foot of the ridge.

Start up a short steep bulge on to a slab. Move up and left passing a few bolts to a short headwall. Pull this, then move right and finish up the last 30ft of Curiosity killed the Rat.

It was first done in two pitches but it is best  to do all in one pitch. We were going to head up the corner to the left but found better rock to the right.

Starts below the smooth wall about 50' left of start of Cat Walk. A fine delicate climb on superb rock. A short but sweet route designed for those who prefer sport like protection.

P1).Climb to the first bolt at about 20' here the rock steepens,follow a total of eight pro bolts to junction with the belay of Cat Walk.5.10+

Descent :-Here one can continue up pitch two of Cat Walk 150' 5.6 and walk off or rap back down Cat's Me-ow

Starts up the pitch of Rat in the Hat and continues up the headwall by a 5.10 190' new pitch

P1).Climb the 5.9- pitch of Rat in the Hat. This climbs to a bolt at about 15' then straight up to another then trend right to a shallow groove that leads to the corner crack at the top of the pitch. 170'5.9-.

P2)Two aid bolts are used to climb the overhanging entry to a groove system . Follow this trending right at mid height ,then straight up following about 7 pro bolts with cam and stopper placements to the summit and register about 15' above the double bolt anchor. 190' 5.10.

Rap route.

Description

Protection

Routes in O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)