P1: Climb straight up past first bolt to bulge/overlap. Pull over bulge to clip second bolt (crux), continuing up and left onto easy slab and anchor. (5.10a, 7 bolts, 80')P2: Climb low-angle, well featured slab to anchor below headwall (5.4, 5 bolts, 80')P3 (Project): Climb steep wall up right of anchor to left-leaning diagonal rail. Continue to horizontal below roof and onto ledge with anchor

Echos of Life

Fly and Scatter

Jerky Jim

D.C.

The Ramp (aka The Gully)

Strange Days

Tap & Die

Jimini

Craig's Crack

Jim Dandy

Don't Let the Man Bring You Down

Black Tide

Pali Gap

Dress

Spring Fever (aka Risky Business)

Eight is Enough

The Man Got You Down

Dirty Bird

Twist & Shout

First Aid

Cool Jerk

Crashing by Design

The Option

Midnight Rambler

Warlock

Direct Helix (Betty Boop)

Cool Jim

Peggy Lane

The Usual

Drum Circle

Delicate Creatures

Fun face/slab climbing up the center of the main wall. What was once an X-rated trad climb* is now a well bolted sport climb! Traverse out left to reach a belay anchor at the base of Craig's Crack. Climb over the bulge to gain the slab, then follow the brown streak straight up. When it gets steeper, technique your way through the crux, then finish up to the anchor.For a 2nd pitch, bring trad gear & continue into the alcove above and exit via one of the cracks.*Originally put up in the early 80s by Jim Ewing as either a TR or solo (with optional cam in a horizontal at about 60'). Bolted by Jim Campbell, 2013

Follow the slightly meandering bolted line just left of Craig's Crack. Shares the general start of Twist & Shout, which is a trad route.

This is a link up of Jim Dandy into the finish of Cool Jerk that creates a gem of a climb that heads directly up the buttress. Start up the discontinuous cracks on Jim Dandy to reach the blocks and the bolt. Climb straight up past the bolt to gain the ledge. Clip another bolt and finish up the short corner to reach the bolt anchor.

A nice little warmup or first lead on the right side of the Main Wall and also a great way to access the climbs on the Upper Wall. Easy climbing follows a line of bolts up the stairstep face before reaching the crux. Weave left then right through the bulges/ledges and then up to the bolt anchor.

 A 2nd and 3rd pitch may be done by heading up left to join Cool Jerk at the start of the offwidth, then climb the offwidth to the face above.

A dirty 4th class ascent, about 2-3' wide, between Dirty Bird and Delicate Creatures. The old description describes stepping right to a large pine at the top of the ramp, then further right and up over jugs to the top. A direct finish behind the pine is 5.4.

Dark streak left of Spring Fever/Risky Business. Climb straight up steep slab on small nubs & edges, passing three overlaps.

Right of Penny Lane by 15' at far left side of Main Face. Make crux bouldery moves up to first of 4 bolts. Climb up and onto left-leaning ramp, then up face with crack on right. Continue up ledges, easy climbing to 2-bolt anchor.

Start 30' right of Peggy Lane, to the right of Tap & Die. Typical Clifton slab: decent feet & small knobs for handholds. 

Mega classic route. Great slab climbing leads to a crack/corner and a bolt anchor on a ledge. Perfect to cruise on a hot summer day. There is a slight runout on the short slab between the two cracks.

 For a 2nd Pitch, finish up the face to the roof, then either finish on the Dike Route out left or follow the wide crack.

A fun stretch of climbing. Follow discontinuous cracks up the buttress to the large blocks up high. Clip a bolt on the left, get up on the ledge, then traverse right to another bolt. Finish up the flaring corner above to reach the bolt anchor.

A fun addition to the cliff. Start up the wide crack/flake to reach the first bolt on the black streak. Step right above the bolt and crimp & balance your way up the face to reach a ledge, a mantle, and then a rest. Continue up the black streak with a shallow dihedral/dike feature on the left side and the crimpy face on the right. Climb over a small bulge near the top and you'll find yourself at the anchor.

Work left to right at the start on delicate features, search for mostly positive handholds. Then up and slightly left to mantle over bulge and climb steepening slab on edges and nubbins.Note: The middle section of Pali Gap is an old route from 1986, Crashing by Design, which traversed in from the left on an even older 1971 obscure line, El Folly, passing 1 bold then climbing further right to rap anchor on Eight is Enough.

Short sport route up clean slab to anchor, directly below Dihedral.

There's an anchor up there! In what seems like the middle of the face, the shiny bolts beg you to come visit. Begin beneath the lone bolt and work your way up the brown streak, staying mostly left. Past the bolt, you'll find a few cam placements on a small ledge, then head towards the obvious flake. Once there, it's not far to the ledge and the anchor.

 If you need a 2nd pitch, continue up the Dike Route on the left.

Fun face climbing that is unfortunately too dangerous to enjoy in it's current state. Start at the left side of the main wall near Spring Fever and just right of the trees. Scramble up a small rock or climb the short dihedral and traverse left to the dike. Follow the dike up to the ledge, then reach a high bolt. Pull the crux bulge and aim for the next bolt and then for the anchor.

 The old guide claims there were 3 bolts, however I could only find two. The hardwear is due for an upgrade and should have 5 bolts plus the anchor.

Super thin, technical climbing leads to more featured rock with a bunch of fun moves. Start up easier terrain and head towards the first bolt. Clip in and enjoy the crux on small feet and smaller hands to reach a decent crimp. Continue up the more abundant holds past a few bolts and then start plugging gear when the bolts run out. Shares the same anchor as Don't Let the Man Bring You Down, or continue further to the Midnight Rambler anchor. Rappel or lower.

Climb obvious parallel cracks with decent gear opportunities. Top out on ledge at bolted anchor.

This classic trad route tackles the right side of the center face just left of Craig's Crack. Head up the ramp to the right and then climb straight up. There is a small flaring crack and a hollow flake and eventually you'll be on the anchor ledge.For a 2nd pitch, finish on the Dike Route, or continue straight up and pull the roof at a jug 10' right of the dike.

A fun route in the gully cluster. Start up a series of vertical cracks that arch right after about 20'. Mount the awkward block to your right (or swing out onto the face and mantle) and you find yourself on Cool Jerk. Finish as for that route: mantle again, traverse left 8' to the cold-shut and last vertical section below the anchors.

While this is a 3 pitch climb, most people will only do the 1st pitch. Climb up the large crack that looks like a flake but sure doesn't climb like one. You'll find yourself at some large blocks and you can clip a bolt. Move straight up the face onto the ledge, then traverse left to the short corner. Figure out the corner, maybe with the help of a mono crack, then clip the bolt anchor.

 If you wish to continue, climb up over the bulge, then move right to the base of the off-width on the upper wall. Finish up cracks to the top.

Similar to the original Crashing by Design route, it now has its own anchor and direct start (no longer shared with Eight is Enough). Several bolts to be added as well (Summer 2021).Start about 30' right of Peggy Lane between Jimini and the large tree, climb straight up to anchors passing one old bolt (until new ones are added).

Start 20' right of Midnight Rambler in the short, obvious open-book dihedral. Exit left and climb straight up a steepening sparse slab until able to traverse left to The Usual's bolted anchor.

This corner/crack system is worthwhile and fun. The old guide referred to it as dirty, but it appears to have cleaned up over time. Follow the crack and corner straight up with good gear and a variety of moves before reaching the bolt anchor. Rappel with a 60m rope.

 From here, you can continue with a 2nd pitch to reach the base of the off-width, and then a 3rd pitch of climbing the off-width and stepping left onto the face above. Most people are content with the first pitch.

An old route that hasn't been posted yet. This large hands crack is short but fun, angling up and left to a chain anchor. Additional pitches available moving left and up from the anchor.

A well bolted moderate on the right side of the Main Wall. Start up over varied terrain to reach the clean face above. Crimp and balance to the anchor.

 While fun on it's own, this route also provides easy access to Double Helix and Hand Jam above.

This is a link up of Cool Jerk into Jim Dandy that eliminates most of the wandering nature of Jim Dandy while still keeping the crux. Start up Cool Jerk and climb the crack to reach the bolt above the blocks. Climb up and right into the flared corner of Jim Dandy, passing another bolt before getting to the fun. Finish it up to the bolt anchor.

Follow the obvious low angled corner at the left end up (sometimes through bushes and trees) to a small vertical section that brings you to the top.

There isn't much agreement on the actual location of several old routes at Parks. Often, new routes get bolted vertically whereas old ones traversed or wound their way to the top, resulting today in a lot of shared space. D.C. is one such route, which shares its start with what is being called The Usual.Start 10' right of Midnight Rambler and climb straight up to the anchor. The first bolt feels like a 20' free-solo, so bring small gear to calm your nerves. Two-thirds of the way up there is a 5' vertical bulge with poor feet; keeping left stays with the grade or mantle the obstacle a 5.9 upgrade.Watch out for poison ivy at the bottom ledge, especially when you pull the rope! 

One of a series of decent slab climbs up the main face. This one seems to have been retrobolted nicely. Start up a very short right-leaning ramp at the base, then steadily make your way past numerous horizontal folds, past the rest ledge, cross the dike, and finish slightly left to the anchors.

Not to be confused with the older route, D.C., which is next to Midnight Rambler. Fun moves on positive edges, a bit of a reminder for climbers to be aware of the tinier wildlife in the area we climb. Start right of The Ramp. Mantle onto ledge and climb some delicate features working right of roof to anchor. Alternate finish: climb crack to top of ledge.

The massive slab(ish) face to the right of the Mushroom Wall. The routes on this wall are single and multi-pitch.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in c. Main Face