This is a fun climb with a big roof at the end. Up until the roof, the route is fairly easy - almost like Vertical. The roof has a crack that runs out the middle of it. Pulling over the roof is the crux of the climb. There aren't many holds above the roof. The climb finishes on a ledge with a pine tree on it. This is the same ledge that Vertical finishes on. From there you can class 4 scramble down to Strawberry Jam Pillar or walk over to Epitaph Wall.

Piney

Breakaway Right

Bone Jacker

Superbulge

Mike's Finger Buckets

Vertical

Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge

Breakaway left

Can be top roped from the same anchor position as Vertical. Follow a crack system up to some layback moves, continue up the face to a white headwall and finally up to the belay ledge.

Head up the left facing corner, past a slimey crack, escaping the roof on the right.  Head up through numerous chicken heads.

Begin a few feet right of Breakaway Right and Left.... Climb up to a downward pointing flake, load it up with gear and bust straight up on crimps to a big move, climbing up to join breakaway right. A good finish to add to the spiceyness is finishing on breakaway green scar.

12 left of Vertical is a face climb with a chalky thin start.  Follow the line of least resistance to the top.

Super-positive holds all up and down this classic route make it an extremely popular climb. a good place to play for the new leader and the old alike. 

  Follow the prominent crack/flake system that starts in the center of the wall, about 15 feet beneath a small overhang. Pull through it and follow the parallel left-leaning cracks up to the next bulge. Work your way over or around the bulge near the top to the large platform.  

  There are many variations possible. Some follow the parallel cracks exactly, some work the face on either side. One fun variation is to traverse left until above Mike's Finger Buckets before you pass by the first overhang and then climb the featured green face to the top. The climbing doesn't get any harder than 5.6 or 5.7, whatever you opt to play on. 

  Vertical Extension (5.4* PG) An excellent optional finish is to continue climbing up the right-facing wall/arete to the Slimey Ledge. This gives you another 15 feet or so additional climbing. 

Several fine liebacks on flakes using good holds after moving right above a roof.  These moves make the beginning 20 feet up the gully worthwhile. Lots of lichen.

This climb follows the left side corner for the wall.  Follow a fingery crack up to a roof with a bolt below it.  Head left around the roof past a slimey wall, finishing through a crux finger crack above.  Run it out to the summit via chicken heads galore.

Start up the gully for Centrifuge. Instead of escaping the roof right, jam straight through the roof. Follow the crack to a ledge and then finish up on the knobby face to the base of the Epitaph area.Worth mentioning that the last twenty feet of this climb are run-out. The face is slightly harder than the Breakaway finish (probably 5.7ish), and there is no gear for about 15 feet. Additionally, the face is dirty and the holds seem suspect due to lack of traffic.

This is the "main wall" of Rocks State Park. 

  The BREAKAWAY WALL hosts the longest top-rope routes, pushing 80+ feet in length. Be sure both ends of your rope reach the ground before trying these climbs!Although Indys guide recommends a 50m rope minimum, I would say 60m to be safe. 

  You'll need gear for most anchors here (there are a few natural anchors but will have to be used with your gear placements) and the anchors are usually set from either the EPITAPH WALL (for those climbs left of Vertical) or the platform 15 feet lower down (for Vertical and Piney).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Breakaway Wall