This is the fun, generally overhanging area to the left of Diving for Rocks.   It currently is not equipped with any hardware and is easily top-roped from the Diving for Rocks anchors.   This climbs really well but still needs lots of cleaning as of Sept 2020.

Scooby Snacks

Amyloid Plaques

Diving For Rocks

Bebop Arete

Chali and the Toprope Factory

Loompa Slab

The Minor Unconformity Crack

The Everlasting TR Pillar

Fizzy Whiz Arete

The Golden Ticket

5th Grade Bully

Habesha

Smoochie Poochie

Sonic Boone

The Hang Corner

The Tunnel to Mordor

Fight or Flight Crack

Human Airer

Oompa Slab

Nipping at the Heels

This is the obvious crack/corner system that splits the Highline Hang wall.   It is still pretty dirty but I plan to keep cleaning it.   I came across an old tattered fixed monkey fist and some tattered cord on this route—I suspect Alpenbock explorations as I did find research supporting they frequented this formation early on.  It’s nothing special but it is a worthy beginner trad route.

Currently the easiest thing to do is use the anchors atop Smoochie Poochie, but you can climb an additional 25-30’ to the top of a pillar, where there is a set of fixe rap rings to the left—for those who like “adventTR’ing”. The climbing may approach 5.8 in some places?  Lots of guano.

Reminds me of climbing at Castlerock, WA for some reason.   I can picture Beckey would have loved this way back in the day.   It’s got that “vintage” feel to it.

If it was closer to the road, I bet it would get climbed regularly.

This easy, but fun climb follows the last quartzite crest of rock before it deteriorates into shale which indeed it does a few meters to the north. A 20-25 minute approach hike should get you there.

Pitch #1: Climb the bulge passing a couple of bolts to a ledge and rap station. You can easily continue on to the top (beware of rope drag) of the climb or belay here if with kids or beginners. Two bolt belay. 5.5, short.

Pitch #2: Follow the fixed protection up the fun arete like spur passing obvious bolts to another two bolt belay. 5.5, 30m.

Rappel the route.

This is a double homage route—my amazing scooby-doo Dane/Rodesian dog passed away this year.   She was the best.   Her name was Chali.   She used to collect rocks and would literally “dive for rocks”.  Also, similar backstory to a fantastic and classic route of the same name on the Greenbelt in Austin, TX.   So...double-homage.

Very fun, overhanging, gym-like moves.   Some hard to find holds, and some that may not make it...there are also great “stances” throughout.    The first bolt is a little high and a yellow #2 metolius or similar sized cam works great to “help” getting there.

Pitch #1: The crux is probably thrashing through the thick brush and loose chossy rock guarding the "real climbing" ascending the bolted arete. 5.3? Loose.

Pitch #2: Once one of the bolts is clipped about 40 feet up from the ground/gully, it will be impossible to get off route to the two bolt with chains belay. 5.6, 30m.

Rappel the Route or waddle over to Amyloid Plaques and Rappel there.

That’s right!   I don’t even have kids, but when I lost my fur baby, and got laid off because of the virus, I had to do something in the heat of the summer!   This will be a really fun place to take beginners and especially kids!    Currently it is a work in progress but James decided to share the Flume so I thought I’d start fleshing it in.   I have lots more work to do here.   For now...you can easily walk up to Windy Canyon and one dad or mom could scramble up to the ledge where the Everlasting TR Pillar is and essentially set up any number of easy 5th TR’s.

it will be more obvious I promise...anyone want to donate some funds towards anchors and hardware?

This is the right side of the Oompa Slab feature of the Chali and the Toprope Factory wall.  Currently it is all traditional protected with small and sporadic nutcraft; however, it is possible to simply protect the wide crack to the right of the slab at the quartzite/shale interface—the Minor UnConformity Crack.  There is no hardware or anchor.

I suggest top-belaying this slab/crack as the ledge/belay area is very unstable and needs significant work before it is “friendly”.

This is the obvious low angle wide crack on the right side of Oompa Slab.  The right side of the crack is shale and the left side is quartzite (correct me if I’m wrong).   It is really fun climbing, unfortunately it is currently a pain to get to.   My plan is to continue developing the landing and access.

This is a real sweet hang, up on the ledge system above Chali and the Toprope Factory.   Accessed via those routes or the Indian Staircase and an easy scramble to lookers left.   It’s a shame this rock isn’t much, much longer...as it is we just put TR anchors on it and love pursing safely around in this cool spot.   The overhanging arete to the left is 5.11.   There is a fun, but short finger and hand crack a bit further down the ledge.   Then there is a really fun triangle pillar slab that I likely will equip...albeit it’s only 3 bolts long.    Then there is a really awesome steep crack face problem as well.    It’s a cool place to hang.   It’s easy to talk to each other, etc its fun.   There’s nothing wrong with going out and to prolong in the shade!

This is the fun arete immediately to the right of the Golden Ticket.  Shares the high anchors with the Golden Ticket.

Begin with ez dirty slab with many ledges, up to the roof overlap where there is solid gear in the horizontal.  Make a fun squishy step up and right onto the large ledge, with more good gear in the dirty cracks.  Follow these weaknesses on the right with nice slab holds on the left up to the single bolt.

This crack dihedral is in the first bit of rock you come to once you enter Windy Canyon.   This first wall is Chali and the Toprope Factory and will be an excellent beginners area, as well as a great family area for younger children (with traffic and once I finish what I have planned). There is an Indian staircase/scramble that gets you to the top of most of these TR’s (there are a dozen possible variations).   And there is even an additional series of top-ropes up above on the Glass Elevator Ledge (where the Everlasting TR Pillar is).

The Golden Ticket is a perfect guides crack or beginner trad crack.   It protects very well and every piece can be made from secure stances.   The lower part of the climb currently scrambles up about 25’ of easy 4th class terrain, but from the upper belay perch, there is a solid 50’ of excellent easy crack/dihedral.  I think I will put in a “guide anchor” here as well, but currently there is an additional 25’ of 5.5 to a set of chain anchors on a prominent nose

This is the leftmost route from the Highline Hang Ledge.   It is a bit “sporty”.  The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and is essentially a dead point if climbing the bolt line—however, it seems possible to run from the bully and dodge away to the right—fight or flight!  Possibly easier 5.10 if done that way, but a spicier, swinging leap around the arete should you succumb.   Belayers pay attention!   It is also possible to plug some gear here to the right if desired, although extra length runners are advised should you try and run from the bully.

The landing is on a somewhat sloping ledge past some thick underbrush. We did clear it out, but it may have a tendency to grow back. This East facing little route is practically always in the shade.

Start climbing up some steep finesse requiring moves following the bolts to the two bolt belay and lower. 5.9+, 20m.

Very fun, positive, and surprisingly steep for a 5.7.   This is currently the middle route at the Highline Hang Ledge.  It is also the first route in the Wasatch totally equipped with Bonier <pronounced bone yay> hangers, stainless steel but painted brown (aka vagina hangers).

7 bolts plus chain anchors.

This is an easy multi pitch bolted BCC route with a very short approach. For that, it is somewhat unique for the area. Definitely fun. Dylan and Emily's infant namesake son Boone now has something to aspire to:).

Pitch #1: Easy scrambling leads to a bulge with a bolt and continue straight up past a few other easy bulges and small roofs to a small two bolt rappel ledge. Continue past this rappel station passing another bolt to 3rd class scrambling (pass some loose shale here with care) to the huge ledge and two bolt belay. 5.5, 60m, 7 bolts.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up following bolts passing some broken up terrain passing two or three bulgy roofs to another ledge and two bolt belay. 5.6, 35m.

Pitch #3: Pass a small roof to the left and climb a steep pillar like feature passing three bolts. Can be tricky here. Some of the bolts here may not follow the easiest line but were placed in better rock. Climbing a bit left and then reaching out right may be easier than climbing bolt to bolt. Surmount this roof and then enter an OW section (one bolt) and finally scramble the last few meters to the two-bolt belay. 5.8, 30m, 5 bolts.

Pitch #4: Pass the bolt protected roof on right edge to another two bolts trending left. After the third bolt expect easy exit moves without fixed protection to the two bolt belay. 5.7, 20m, 3 bolts.

Rappel the Route. 70m rope recommended. Possible with a 60m.

This is the obvious low angle “chimney”-like tunnel feature that climbs the 4th gully as you walk up Windy Canyon. It is totally unique and protects well with large gear.  It is all gear, there is zero installed hardware.   It is possible to exit out of the tunnel system on the right before the upper head wall, and then follow the path of least resistance to the summit (+200’ and f easy 5th class).  It is also possible to get out of the tunnel and then traverse left across steepening terrain and step/leap across the gully to the slab/low angle terrain.

There is evidence of earlier technical climbing up on the head wall (there is an old tattered death triangle on 2 pins/1/4”er’s).   I plan to explore more as I see some potential.

Also known as the

Grade-School Variation

, this is the crack/dihedral system to the right of 5th Grade Bully.  If done completely as a gear route, you would essentially join into 5th Grade Bully near the 3rd bolt but then choose to not flip any of them and instead futz with gear in some suspect rock—it is possible to do the line completely on gear, but this “hang” is destined to be a fun sport area so save some weight or displace it with cold canned variety.

There is a fun 3 bolt variation that turns the roof to the right near the 3rd bolt of 5th Grade Bully...hence there are a few different lines that share some space and eventually the same anchors.

This outstanding climb is around the corner, further up Windy Canyon, in the 3rd gully of sorts.   It is super fun, with 3 distinct “cruxes”, and some amazing holds.   It is incredible position, and literally climbs up above the Highline anchors of “Dreams”.

It affords a ton of air for only weighing in at easy 10.

I still need to finish the first bolt so currently advised to bring a few small pieces (#1 blue metolius and/or #2 yellow metolius).   Also advised to bring a few extra-length runners.

This is the promising looking slab up above and to lookers right of the Golden Ticket/Fizzy Whiz Arete, where the shale and quartzite form a very loose gully and hanging ledge, above some lurking rocks and tangled roots/tree system.   If you want to do this before the groundwork gets done, I suggest beginning the climb from the Golden Ticket belay perch and/or below that perch on the ground, and traversing right into the slab.   There is adequate natural protection along the entire traverse and then the slab itself spaces that out a little bit more.  There is a single bolt in the 2nd shield, tri-cams work great below that, and the climbing is easy enough above this that the sporadic and small gear is sufficient.

This slab is excellent and easy and can basically be climbed anywhere.  It takes some effort to “climb” the more technical line as it is very easy to just climb the gully to the left.  Therefore this is an example of “Texas Harvesting”.

Until the ledge/belay area gets stabilized and worked in, I highly suggest belaying from the top either from a hanging stance off the anchors or simply by sitting on the top.

There are many variations on the slab.

Very unique position, literally sandwiched between the shale and the quartzite arete/slab of Amyloid Plaques.   The first pitch is essentially the same as for Bebop Arete and can easily be scrambled.  Before the actual arete of Bebop Arete, hang a right at an obvious quartzite ledge/stance and aim for “the Pit”, a nice nook with enough room to dump a pack and suit up.  Just right of the Pit is a single bolt belay (an angle will soon be added but a 3/4” cam works great too).  This belay position affords an excellent view of most of the route, up and left.The money pitch begins up and out of the Pit to a left trending finger and hand crack that takes bomber gear (Red metolius, blue metolius, pink Tricam, small nut, ...) with great feet.  There’s a little bit of movement up and left of this crack before it mellows out for about 20’ over a couple of “almost” ledges to some smaller nuts or micro cams and the bolts.

The second part of this pitch continues traversing up and left through 4 or 5 bolts.  It is possible to exit up and right at almost any point on this climb as it literally traverses under the edge of the arete the entire way.   Try to stay low and left for some excellent movement and exposure, never harder than 5.8.

Ends at (2) Fixe Rap Rings to the left of the arete, or exit up and right from the last bolt and finish the last 35’ of easy 5th class to the 2nd set of anchors on Amyloid Plaques.

Descent: a 70m will reach straight down from the anchors to a small evergreen near the beginning of the actual arete on Bebop Arete (also a pretty obvious quartzite stance/ledge).  This is about 30’ left of the Pit.  BE CAREFUL OF THE SHARP SHALE.  Either carefully downclimb from here or do a short rap from the evergreen (a lower rap station may be added at some point).

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Location

Protection

Routes in Granite Flume