A silly eliminate on the

Meditation Roof

.  Start on the jug at the lower right lip of the roof (the finishing hold for left to right low traverse).  Shoot four feet left to the edge (a finger pad thick and at least four inches wide) above the lip of the roof.  Match.  Fire straight up to the good incut, but small edge (once again about a pad thick) about a foot above the seam (

Tommy's Way

). Top out.

Good Shootin'

Tommy's Way

Low Low Down

Gastoned (Roof Variation)

Gastoned Direct

Arm and Hammer

Meditation Low Traverse

Long Way Round

Meditation Traverse

2 Meditative Throws

Meditation Roof

Ludicrous warning...a fun line but a little silly.  Find the roof on meditation boulder (south side). 'Grab' the two smears of underclings under the south roof of meditation boulder.  Now it's essentially only two moves.  1) Crank your feet onto the rock. 2) Grab any hold above the roof.  Top it out now that you've got it.

Thin adequately describes this problem.  So unless you have mutant fingers, use thine feet well. Start on the rail just left of the roof on north face.  Reach directly up to the thin sloping rail.  Grab and use this and only this thin rail to it's terminous.  Yes yes!

A fun eliminate version of the meditation low traverse.  Showed this to my partner Chris, who then worked it out and passed the beta to me.  Left of the roof on the south face of Meditation boulder is a series of three of four holds at chest level which the standard

Meditation Low Traverse

follow.  Below the last at belly button (depending) level is a dish just before the roof.  Start with hands matched on this hold.  The only hands one is allowed under the roof are the mono pocket and junky edge / crimp to its right.  Get onto these and then shoot for the jug at the right of the pod / roof.  Control and match here and then climb easily up and right.  Short, thin and fun.  I found this as hard as

Tommy's Way

just above. Like that line, easier when cooler. The grade may be debate-able, as they all are.

Start on the jug on the right side of the overhang and fire left to the namesake gaston. Then cross over with your right, and pull the roof. Continue up and left to the top of the boulder.

Start on the two jugs on the right side of the overhang, and shoot straight up to the left hand, intermediate crimp. Get a high right foot, and hit for the horizontal rail. Make a big move to the top. Fun!

The only difference between this and the standard meditation traverse is the requirement to stay low through the roof on the north side of this boulder.  Usually this section is the last climbed, so ones shakes off the initially pump at the jugs on the NW corner before attacking the final crux moves below the roof.  After you have it wired, do laps or work it in reverse or try Tommy's Way.

This is a bit of a silly eliminate. Start on the jugs at the far left side of the south face of the boulder. Stay low till you get to the roof, then throw to the crimp right above the left edge of the roof. Bump over and use both right-facing sidepulls to get up to the rail, and finish on the end of

Gastoned Direct

.

Meditation Boulder is downhill and right from the Eliminator Boulder, perhaps 30 yards.  This problem, to traverse the entire problem, no holds eliminated, is a great moderate problem.  Most traverse starting on the easy East side fof the South Face and traverse counterclockwise around the boulder.  Teaches one how to use one's feet, shake out after a pump, and packs in the moves.  Among the separate cruxes divided by rests, in order one will encounter, are the thin crimp rail of the east face, the odd sloping (if one stays low) moves and seam of the north face, the technically complicated west face which becomes easier and easier as one wires the moves and learns the intricate balance, plus the final powerful traverse above the [south] roof.

This is another ridiculous eliminate. Start on the jug just above waist level on the right side of the south roof. Throw far left to an six-inch-long finger-pad edge on the left side of the lip of the roof. Match on it. Throw straight up past the seam (

Tommy's Way

) to the next edge. This one has a bit of a lip, so watch out for flappers. Now pull the feet over the roof, and top it out.

Start with two hand holds above roof with feet under roof. Go left to an edge and then to the horizontal crack. Two more jugs complete the problem.

Description

Protection

Routes in Meditation Boulder