Very good thin, slippery crack. The crux comes at a bulge about halfway up. Used to be a trad route but is now fully bolted.

Black Ice

Sweet & Sour

Imprisoned Behind Lies

Crisco Kid

Ambassadors of Funk

Malcolm X

James Brown

Botswana Baby

Chocolate City

Sidewinder

Black Panther

Inner City Youth

Broken Battery

Draggin' My Feet

Z Dong

Pulp Friction

Fear of a Black Planet

Fade To Black

This is the first route encountered on the left side of the cliff, near the bottom of the trail. Climb the outside face of a small pillar past 2 bolts. Easy climbing leads past 8 more bolts to a three-bolt anchor. A good beginner's lead.

Short dihedral to crack above. It's possible to switch over to "Welcome to the Gorge" midway for a 5.9 variation that avoid the choss in the upper part of this route.

Start as for Black Ice and follow the tan hangers just to the right.  Slick rock through the crux leads to the upper headwall.  The headwall can also be done via Inner City Youth.

Can be done with a single 80m, will reach but the ends don't touch the ground.

For lack of a better comparison, this climb is like a long slow jam by Funkadelic, with the funk coming low and deep and keeping the groove all the way to the top.

This brotha is black, smooth, and proud. An easy bit leads to the biz which involves crimping up to a pocket, clipping, then surviving another thin series of moves before juking to the left and easier ground.

Deserves way more travel and hype than it gets.  Originally rated .11d.  Go check it out.

From the top of Fear of a Black Planet, ascend a face to a sturdy flake, step right, and negotiate harder face/slab moves to the anchors.  For variety of movement and position, a top five ORG pitch in my book.

This is the bolted crack immediately left of Fear of a Black Planet.  Follow the crack, then wrap around to an arete anchor on the left (right edge of the main wall.)  Pretty enjoyable, actually.

The anchor is also a convenient freebie TR setup for Chocolate City and Broken Battery.

There is a second pitch above if one chooses to do it (Free To Choose, 11c, 8 bolts, 1 *.)  Both pitches can be combined into one long pitch as well. HOWEVER, be advised there is still loose rock on Free To Choose!!!

Another slick Negress route that kind of gets overlooked in spite of it's quality.

The crux is a couple of bolts long and is almost immediate after stepping out left.  Gently overhanging crimps/incuts gain the shallow dihedral/crack that composes the upper portion of the route.  Slick rock.

This route is usually climbed as a 2nd pitch or extension to Black Ice.  From the anchors of Black Ice move up and right to the first bolt.  Climb 5 bolts of slippery, easy rock and then climb up a blunt arete to chain anchors.  The last 2 bolts worth of climbing is chossy and loose.

Start in a dihedral with a great finger crack, just to the right of Fear of a Black Planet. From there, the terrain turns to face climbing with steep terrain and positive holds.

Do Black Ice, then angle slightly right on easy climbing to obtain the upper tan colored headwall of Crisco Kid.  The upper headwall is a nice combination of eyebrows, pockets, and incuts.

Due to route length, be careful lowering off (requires 80m.)

Hard climbing down low with a section between the first and second bolt where you probably do not want to blow it.  It gets easier in the middle then another small crux near the end.  The rock is a little flaky in spots.

Bouldery start past the first few bolts, then weave around a little on the vertical face.  There is a low anchor at 110' but doing the few extra feet to gain the next anchor on the Raven Ledge proper is more logical if continuing on with another pitch.  Note that from the second anchor it becomes 115'  (needs a 70m if single rope) to get back to the ground or rappel.

This climb starts in a jumbled flake system with good finger locks and solid nut placements.  At the top of the flake, clip a bolt and move slightly right and then up an easy, runout face, heading for the obvious crack.  A short juggy crack section leads to a beautiful right leaning thin hands/off fingers crack.  Follow this up to a mussy hook anchor. Two rappels (or two ropes) to the ground.

This is a super fun arete climb high over the Warm Up Wall.  Climb Welcome to the Gorge 5.9+ to reach the start of this route.

From the belay, Pulp Friction heads up left past two bolts and face climbs past a small roof, then up and right to a narrow arete past 7 more bolts to the top.  Great moves, position and protection.

Climbing on either side of the arete seemed about the same difficulty to us.

This goes up the left side of the black polished dihedral.  Gain a ledge 20' up, then pull onto the face and stem. a short traverse right at the end of the stem section, then up a few more bolts to the anchor.

This route starts at the Malcolm X anchor, and goes to the top of the main face following a black streak.  Where the wall steepens, move up and left.  Follow a crack, then finish on slick face.

For a longer pitch, link Malcolm X and Fade To Black.

Even with an 80m both ends of the rope will NOT reach the ground from the FTB mussies.

Description

Protection

Routes in [Redacted]