The  initial blast is powerful, but don't let your guard down on the moves above. Fortunately you can fully rest up on the ledge before engaging the small, crescent-shaped corner

(description from Mike William's guidebook)

My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs

Beer Wench

St. Pauli Girl

Spatenweiss

Werewolf

Thank God I'm Bubbafied!

Micro Brew

Doo-Wah Woof

Near Beer

Daisy Cutter

Bubbaweiser

Cirrhosis of the Leader

Gilded Otter

Delerium Tremors

Cerveza Verde

Celebration Ale

Fred Sandstone Flake

A Pound of Prevention

This route begins in a chimney..crosses over an awkward (creepy) gap to a large flake...then up less than vertical rock to the top. Can be pretty committing for the 5.7 leader.

No way this puppy is 5.8- (the original rating).  Definite sandbag.  The opening crack is at least 5.9.  Get a good spot or bring a stick clip for the crux, because you'll be doing it before you clip the first bolt.

Climb the flaring crack through the bulge (crux, strenuous clip), then stray a bit right up the nice face to a short open book.  Stem up the open book (5.7) to the anchors.

Thin start to sustained 10a climbing, crux in a crack below small roof.

similar to St. Pauli Girl, but a bit more stout. Follow the bolt line just right of Micro Brew through two roofs until it joins with St. Pauli Girl at its last bolt.

(description from Mike William's guidebook)

Located 15-20' right of Fred Sandstone Flake. Scramble up the lower slab with a couple of interesting moves to a ledge stance below a small roof and short headwall. Arrange pro from small wires and cams then pull onto the vertical face where a sequence of thin edge and flake moves leads past more clean, small protection to easier but still steep ground and a mantle onto the wide flat ledge at the top. Notable is that this climb's onsight first ascent was done at midnight under the light of a full moon, with the quite drunken f.a. party wearing headlamps- hence the name Werewolf. We were camping just down the hill below Bubba City and it was a beautiful night, so we said, "Let's go climbing!"

Follow the obvious chimney system and wide roof crack to the top. The roof looks imposing but is surprisingly straight forward. Moving around the lip is the crux.

Not as good as Gilded Otter.  Has some broken rock and is a bit contrived in that the finish is the same as Gilded Otter.  Essentially bypasses the crux bulge of that climb.

Climb the flake and corner systemn past 2 bolts, then continue up and left in the corner system clipping the final 3 bolts of Gilded Otter.

Climb slab to a ledge. Climb toward alcove but avoid going in; stay left passing a small tree. Follow cracks to a ledge and top out.

Hard for 5.6 !  Awkward move exiting the alcove and overhang.

Work your way up some broken rock for a few moves, then go right above the first bolt to a stance.  Continue straight up past a small overhang (crux), then go left to the obvious flake and wide crack.  Follow flake and crack to the anchors.

Begins with thin moves off the deck on lousy feet.  Stick clipping the first bolt is a great idea.  Clip the 2nd bolt, then begin wandering a bit up through the next few clips until you pull through a couple of fun roofs.  Stab over the lip for a blind sinker hold at roof #1, then get a good hand jam rest at #2.  Pull over on some marginal holds and clip the anchors.

Start on the left side of a face under a high roof.  Climb the steep bouldery moves trending up and right through overhangs passing the 2 bolts to reach the shuts.  All moves are protected extremely well.  Short and powerful.  Although this is short, it's well worth doing, especially on a rainy day.  The guidebook rates it 5.11d/5.12a so its a great route if you are just breaking into the 5.12 grade.

Better than Near Beer.

Climb the open book (easier than it looks), then past a bulge (crux, tough clip for 5.7 leader) to a ledge.  Mantle onto ledge and finish through roof (easy) to the anchors.

Pull the roof and continue to anchors on thin holds.

This is a fun, balancy face climb on good rock.

Make a move or two, then step right to the first bolt.  Continue up the thin and fun face to a small bulge.  Surmount bulge on big holds, then up to a small ledge and the anchors.

It shares the start with Cerveza Verde. Clip the first bolt of Cerveza Verde, then do a balancy traverse towards the right to the second bolt. Follow the this right bolt line to a stance beneath the cap roof. move left over the roof on small, awkward crimps to one last clip before the anchors.

Climb a slab to a more vertical lighter-colored face. Stay left, near the arete and pull the roof at the left facing corner. Finish up a ramp to anchor.

Start on the face below the left end of a ledge and climb directly up past a pin to reach it, step right and pull the small roof/bulge under the v-shaped block (crux). Follow an open-book/crack system to the top, traversing left under the roof to top out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 12. Beer Wall