Climb the first six bolts of Crown Jewel then mantle onto the slab above the large dihedral to the right. From the slab follow the path of least resistance up and right past a bolt and finish on the anchors of the dihedral project.

Crowned Fool

Friend of the Devil

Blade of Isildur

Soul Seller

Bobcat Martini

Pet Meds

Wings Of Change [Open Project]

Addiction Friction

Straight To The Gullet

Crown Jewel

Squirrel Talk

Humblebee

Foaming Fox

The Acquaintance

This route features technical edging and side-pulling up a gently overhanging layback feature between yellow lichen streaks. After a bear hug section, rock over the arete onto the slab. Tip toe up the slab a couple moves before moving back left around the arete and to the anchor.

 Upon seeing this route for the first time, one climber (Heff Jamlin) said "If I was a rock, I'd want to have sex with it." It's a gem.

Clean your shoes and lace them up tight. Climb the beautiful multicolored face on slopey bumps and scoops. A balancy crux lunge finishes the initial sculpted face. Afterward, stay to the left on hard to see features, climbing the left side of the arete. Don't get sucked right into The Acquaintance. Typical dacite micro features on the arete lead to good TOP OUT holds. Enjoy the great exposure while standing on top.

Killer stemming up a slightly overhung corner 

Start on the next belay ledge up from Friend of The Devil. Follow fairly sustained climbing up a dihedral/arete feature for 4 bolts to a difficult bolder problem over the bulge (Small Holds).  

  4 Star movement, at a 3 star length. 3.5 Stars

Climb cracklike feature past a couple bolts, then bust left along a steep flake with positive incut edges. Crank up into the steep laybacks of the dihedral. Stem with precision as laybacks vanish and edges appear, just as the angle eases. This one's not over til it's over. One last steep slab move threatens to tip you backward off yer barstool. Pour some out for the Bobcat if you want to send this one. Very good.

A short and odd little climb. A steep, bouldery crux off the deck leads into an oldschool feeling crack dihedral encounter. From there, climb on the slab(being sure to distinguish between positive toe holds and lichen kernels)until you can reach the lip of the overhanging face above. Clip and lower.

Currently an Open Project 

  Start the same as Straight To The Gullet but move right at the 3rd bolt, though a very thin, traversing boulder problem.  

  Rad position

This climb features a little crank in the beginning followed by great smearing on bumps and divets. A great friction climb that really gets your footwork dialed in for the harder routes.

Climb up a slab to a small roof/bulge, somehow get your feet high enough to reach the underclings above and keep cruxing until you reach the stance above. From here things get significantly easier, step left (the right variation is a project as of now), clip a bolt and launch into the tips to finger crack above.  

  Not quite sure on the grade of this one. The bulge encounter could be quite hard if you are short. 

  Overall great moves, just very inconsistent in difficulty

Shares start with Bobcat Martini, but continues straight up a layback feature that delivers you to a no hands stance before the crux. Pimp micro-features and a slopey undercling while standing on a dime edge to reach a good hold. High step to the anchor. Would be 11a if not for the puzzling 5ft crux.

Good climbing past dihedral to seam. The crux comes as the seam turns left before going straight up. The lack of good feet makes for a desperate and powerful feeling crux but otherwise it's a good warm-up.

Great bouldery moves up steepening overhang lead to a perfect lip encounter. Exciting slab finish.

Shares the first two bolts with Friend of the Devil, then moves right to jugs, and finishes up the exposed, shallow dihedral. This route requires sequential, confident footwork in the start, then some jug pulling up to the dihedral, and then more technical footwork in the dihedral all the way to the anchor. Great exposure due to the fact that the route starts at the top of a 75 foot slab on the side of the mountain. Don't forget to top out after you clip the anchor.

Devils Head is a small chunk of dacite visible from downtown Flagstaff, just east of, and at almost the same elevation as, the Devil's Chair. Viewed from the west at sunset, the features on it's west/northwest face resemble a redish orange dragon with it's wings held up. A horned Devil's Head can also be seen looking up between the raised wings(perhaps the origin of the Devil's Head name given to the lower western peak of Mt Elden). Devils Head/Red Dragon currently hosts nine sport climbs, all about 50 to 60 feet tall. The cliff is shady until 1pm, and can be very windy, especially on the more exposed, upper section of the wall. Summer mornings are good, but when it is cold, afternoon is better. It's a more adventurous sport cliff with a steep approach and some good exposure on the upper routes.

Description

Protection

Routes in Devil’s Head