We disagree with MP.com poster Tony B.as to his characterization of this rock climb. He must be misguided. Indeed this is a strenuous  5.10 handcrack with a spicy traverse in from the right, a good climb. Sling a ridgetop flake for a belay and do a 2nd "low 5th chimney and ridge pitch northward to a bolted anchor. Rap to the north.

Rough & Ready

Rawhide

Hanging Tree

Bush Doctrine AKA Cowboy Diplomacy

Mission Creep

Aim for the tree growing out of the cliff at the base of a left-leaning splitter. Traverse in from the left in a right-angling, intermittent, crack system. I vaguely remember the traversing start to be slightly dirty and a wee bit spicy, but the jamming in the upper crack is well worth the effort.

This is a good, hard pitch with most crack sizes represented. I found it to be a bona fide Kimball sandbag at 11a that felt more like mid to hard 5.11. The bottom section is hands, if I remember right, the middle section involves some tips jamming and thin face moves (this is where I whipped out of it),  and the upper part is fists to chimney. The transition out of the middle section was hard and a bit spooky as well.

Varied and exciting, this new route weaves its way around several bushes in the center of Out West Crag's north face.

Start nicely  with a fingertip traverse past 3 solid knifeblades then go up a groove to a stance beneath a bolt. Climb past the bolt and a thimbleberry clump to finish with a strenuous offwidth move (#5 or 6 cam protect this). Alternately, avoid the bolt step left and handjam a pretty, slanting crack to the same finish.

Rap from 2 bolt anchor.

You have a choice:

P1. Climb a short finger crack or just to the right climb a cornercrack, both are good 5.9. Above either crack, move around into a wide groove and belay from a stainless steel wire sling, slung over a fin/flake.

P2. Worm through a low 5th class chimney and scramble 100 feet  westward to

Bush Doctrine's

anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Out West Crag