Easy climbing with one bulge to pull about half way up.

I Say Ouday

Sweet Semtex

TOW Jam

It's a Haboob!

Bullets Over Baghdad

SCUD Unknown

Habudabi

Korengal Two-Step

Scud Unknown Middle

You Say Quosay

M.R.E. (Maple Rock Exfoliation)

El Rito Simulator

JDAM's in the Sky

This Scud's For You

Project Unknown

Trench Rot

Follow first three bolts of I Say  Ouday then skip left, clipping one bolt, then Habudabi's anchor, then continue traversing up and left for several more bolts.  Eventually you will reach a large ledge with a bolt above it on the bulge.  DO NOT pull the tempting bulge as I did, no more bolts await. Instead, traverse left several feet to anchors around the corner.  Have your belayer follow and clean or prepare to get very frustrated attempting to do it on your own.

Sweet, bomber cobbles up almost vertical stone.

This is an excellent route with a couple of steeper sections in an apparent slab. Climbs the face opposite Bullets and I Say Ouday. Very worthwhile.

This route was originally a one-pitch route. Jason and Noah Stevens added two additional pitches on 12.9.17. A 70M rope is required.

P1: Climb the steepest 5.6 on earth to anchors.

P2: From the anchors, take two steps up and right into a pod. Continue right round a rib and clip the anchors on a project route. Continue right, climbing bolts up a rib and through a vertical section right of an overhang. 5.7 40'

P3: This pitch requires a 70M rope. Climb low angle rock and huge cobbles up the corner of the formation to a three anchor belay station located 20' short of the true summit. If you want to stand on top, continue 20' to the true summit where a single bolt will protect you while you enjoy the views. 120', 5.2. Rap the route.

Variation:

If you want to avoid the crux on the second pitch, climb unprotected easy rock above and slightly left of the anchors. Be careful to not kick any loose rock down on your belayer. Stay in a shallow gully and make your way to a two bolt anchor on the wall right of a huge flat-top platform. Belay your partner to this station, then clip up and right out to the corner and follow the bolt line to the summit.

The first 30' of this climb is fairly continuous. Good climbing at the grade (5.7/5.8).

Far and away, the best route on the wall.  Climb the south facing arete on huge holds to the top of the formation.  There is a great ledge to hang out on.  Belay your second up and bring a camera!  It is a great view!  A perfect first lead with closely spaced bolts and solid rock.

New line of stainless steel bolts that start behind a couple little trees. Now the third line left from Scud.  If this is your route, comment and I’ll add your stuff.

The shortest 5.10 at Maple?  With a steep beginning and a few large moves, this route is over before it even starts.  It can still pump you out though! Don't linger.

The crux is between the first 4 bolts, then you get a good rest at the huge cobble sticking out of the wall.

The climb has some 5.6/7 moves in the lower half and again after a small "cave". The anchors are set back which creates friction when lowering off. One can use the anchors to the left which are higher and create less rope drag. A good route.

A decent, longer route on the right end of the Walls of Liberation (WoL) that starts up some unfortunately chossy rock to the first bolt (maybe it'll clean up alright?) and ends with a short-lived and difficult boulder problem bulge up high.

Stick clip the first bolt (because the soft, exfoliating rock kinda sucks to start) and make tenuous moves past the first bolt to the second bolt. From here the rock quality improves but the moves stay sustained past a few more bolts to a no hands rest below the bulge up high. Make a reachy clip on the fixed perma draw and pull difficult moves over the bulge to easier, dirty terrain to the anchors.

[New route, June 2020] As always, new routes anywhere, especially at Maple Canyon, will be dirty, loose, licheny and stuff will come off as the route improves. Wear a helmet and treat suspect holds with respect and trepidation.

Superb, slightly overhanging climbing on great rock and holds up along the edge of the prominent black streak. There's a nice rest out right around bolts 4&5 with a decently long, but safe, run between bolts 5 and 6. Then hang on for a few more bolts to the anchors. The position of this route is fantastic with a commanding view down canyon from the anchors.

The lowering climber should be careful to not kick rocks in the crummy light brown rock area, left of the bolt line, while lowering.

Climbs a long slab then crosses left over a small couloir, surmounts a short vertical crux and gains the chains at easier rock.

A unique climb!  I think it would be classic if only it were longer.  Climb pockets and cobbles to a chimney where you can stem or scum for a no-hands any way you like (head scum, butt scum, you name it).  The anchors lie just above the chimney.

New route in the area. I unknowingly hopped on this thinking it was TOW Jam. It is not. Crux comes early on (~bolt 3-4). After that, it’s easy jug climbing to the chains.  Felt like an easy 10?

The climbing does not let up much with the crux at about 60% height. Tall people can rest below the crux by stemming across the chasm.

The belaying area is somewhat steep and loose. The route enjoys partial shade from the rock behind it, in the morning, then again in the afternoon. This is a nice group of moderately graded routes, especially together with the routes around Bombs over Baghdad.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Walls of Liberation