Minas Tirith

Rubble Trouble

Arrow Head Left

Lower Slab

In The Valley

Macho Pitchu

Brenda's Last Fling

In Limbo

Digit Damage

We Don't Need No Steenkin Ledges

The Path of Fierce Black Wolves

Equinox

Arrowhead Left

Rubble Trouble Direct

Reading Braille

Seam's Hard

Arrowhead Direct

Junk Culture

Starting near the 'access gully', climb up the face and cracks to a fun juggy over hang.  Establish yourself on the ledge, reach around the corner and feel for the finger crack and go!  This is a blind placement if leading.  Great exposure and strenous!  Go do it!

Climb the striking detached pillar. This feature creates two distinct lines. On climbers right the pillar forms an off width crack. Or, Traverse the base of the pillar. On climbers left the pillar forms a dihedral and hand crack. According to Farris these variations are 5.8 and 5.6 respectively. After surmounting the sharp pillar trend left on great rock to a thin crack. Rubble Trouble Direct (5.9) diverges into the finger crack to the right.

A reletively straight forward climb up a clean crack system.  Starts with a tricky undercling traverse from a block to get established in the crack system.  Good gear the whole way!

A funny little slab at the base of the cliff, covered in moss, and lichen.  Fun to use to make the  topropes above a little longer.  Overrated in guidebook.

The name is probably an allusion to the alpine granite feel to the rock at Section 13.  Farris says, 'Start of the right side of the flake at the bottom, and traverse right to a thin crack'.  The flake is the other side of the formation that you started on for "In Limbo".

3 stars for a decent route with good rock, and a couple of interesting moves.  Look for it on the climber's left side of the crag.  Farris says: "A shallow, yellowish corner is the start of this route and [Brenda's Last Fling]"(259).  He has a couple of good pictures in the book that show where the climb runs.

A fun, tricky little sequence in the middle of a long line of moderate, solid rock. Pagel didn't sculpt the thing, but somehow it's reminiscent of his route at Ely's Peak: Coming Unhinged.  Maybe it's that he's consistently a little stiff with the grades?  Whatever the grade, you'll enjoy the clean rock and cerebral sequence.  You get good bang for your buck when you set up a toprope for this climb and Macho Pitchu.

A fine route to climber's right of The Path of Fierce Black Wolves.  Starts well right of the Path, on the left side of a nice flake, navigates a cool face, and finishes nearby The Path.

Although there is a large ledge halfway up the route...    It's a great climb, and the first one you see when you hit the cliff from the spur trail.  Well worth the effort of setting it up, this climb can be done in three distinct ways, or ten slightly different ways, all of which have great rock, great position, and a little thought-provocation.   I've taken the liberty of downgrading the route so that the grade is consistent with the grades of the region (if you get the chance, do a 10a slab in Yosemite for comparison to the historical grade for this climb). Whatever the difficulty, this is a lot of fun, and it should be the first thing you set up at the crag.

The awesome name for this route alone makes it worth climbing.  Follows the dike in the large gully on the left side of the crag, between "Reading Braille" and "In Limbo".  Good rock, fun moves.

The bottom is a fantastic, thin sequence that resembles a crack, and climbs like a face.  People with thin fingers, and gymnastics backgrounds particularly love this route.  It eases up after the initial section, and it's possible to climb up a little ways on easier rock to bypass the hard section (if you just aren't feeling it).     A nice finish in a thin diagonal crack completes the route.   

Farris' description of this route: from the top of the leaning block, "follow ramp left, or thin crack straight up. The finishes you take depend on your set-up"(259).  You can follow this description, or you can set up a toprope, and do three or four variations on this theme, which seems more logical when there is no obvious line.  Most ways up the rock are about 5.8, all are on nicely textured, solid rock, and the "route" is best enjoyed by climbing it a couple of different times, exploring different features each time.      Also enjoyable to string together with "Lower Slab".

Best 5.9 at the crag. Clean finger crack. The crux is committing to the slightly overhanging initial section. Nice exposure.

'Simply put, This is among the best routes in the state for its grade. It's sustained 5.10 face climbing for the entirety of its 100 foot length.    Although often wet in the spring, it dries by late summer. When standing on top of the crag above the climb "In the Valley" look to the east, and find the flat face that can be followed down to the bottom of the cliff. The route is between the gully on the right and the broken edge of the cliff on the left.'   Thanks to Bob Bickford for the description above. The pictures, too, will be invaluable in finding the route.

One of two 11b's in this vicinity.  It's not well traveled, and not an obvious line, but contains a couple of fun moves.

A short, awesome little problem on pockets and knobs. I've called it 25ft because the rest of the route overlaps with other routes, and the unique section is, unfortunately, only 25ft long.  Reminiscent of bigger, better crags, this great stretch of rock is well worth trying if you have a rope set up on either Rubble Trouble or Arrowhead left.   The grade is appropriately stiff for the region. 

A filthy mammoth of a climb, if chewed in one bite.  The line is relatively indistinct, but it is possible to be lowered to climber's far left, down the slope towards the bottom of the hill, and climb the entire route from there.  If you do this, expect: 1) a huge swing possibility into the hill, 2) a hell of a lot of dirt and brush, and 3) some fun tree branch swings that are required to get through the mess.  Although I haven't done it, I think it's also possible to start higher up on the hill and jump on the route when it's a little less jungle style.     The upper stretch of the route contains the harder rock moves, and the rating is traditional for these moves.  If climbed more often, these moves may take on a nice, clean feel.     It's not generally what you look for in a rock climb, but when you've made it to the top, you really feel that you've accomplished something.  Bring eye drops to help your eyes get all the dirt out if you go the long way.  I'd give it two stars, but I  think I might get some angry comments.

A north-facing ~60ft bluff with a choice of clean cracks and slabs. The anorthosite rock is different than that of Palisade Head and feels more like granite. The routes are accessed by rapping off from the top.  

  The approach trail leads straight to the clifftop with a very nice vista of the forrested surroundings. Section 13 is a good and desolate alternative on crowded days at Palisade and Shovel Point.

Description

Routes in Section 13