Varied route. First half is slab aiding with primarily beak tips in closed corner systems then transitions at the obvious middle tier to vertical aiding up a beautiful rightward arching roof system and then various corner systems to reach the summit. More holes than necessary were placed and I'm ashamed of that fact, but interesting and fun climbing still to be had on the route. I would not suggest this as your first route on this wall as others are better, but a worthy route after completing Epidèmia de Opiáceos and Jericho Wall. Many of the lower pitches will go free at what I assume will be a moderate grade (P2 will be the crux of attempting to free the lower pitches) and there's obvious and moderate freeclimbing possibilities up the left side of the headwall (that will connect with the anchor at the top of pitch 8) for those that are looking to create a freeclimbing variation without the need to put in anchor bolts. Feel free to contact me for more info.

P1 5.10r or A2 - 180'

4th class ramp to obvious corner. Can be freed with very thin flared placements every 25' or with beaks (Prob easier than 5.10, what do I know?)

P2 A3 100'

Thin nailing to obvious roof, followed by hooking, beaks and rivets

P3 A2 165'

Go right from anchors to weakness on the face, overcome first roof, then up to second roof traversing left followed by a corner system and mantel to anchors. Fun pitch

P4 A2+ 150'

Continue up on thin and hollow beak placements to easier terrain to the anchors.

P5 5th class scrambling 135'

Take 5.7 corner (2 moves) to 4th class scramble up to headwall or avoid 5.7 by 5th class scrambling to the left on the face

P6 A2+ 145'

Move belay up and left to obvious small tree where the arch starts. follow arch on thin beaking, cams, hooks, and rivets. At end of arch reach out right to gain anchors. Stellar pitch.

P7 A2 130'

Continue up right facing corner until reaching rivet ladder that trends left. Some tricky placements and hooking gains a small platform and then dirty digging to reach the ledge and anchors. Huge ledge to the right of belay is sloping.

P8 A2 (full 60m rope stretcher)

Move left and up from anchors, reach the roof and tension right and continue until able to reach around the roof to right facing corner system. Follow system until obvious crack trends rightward until reaching a piton to penji back left and follow until end of corner system. Wear sleeves to protect your arms from the shrubbery in the right facing corner.

P9 5.8 130'

Move up and right from anchors to easy but dirty flake to corner/groove for 60' followed by 70' of 4th class scrambling to tree with rap rings. Unrope and wander around to see the awesome upper tier of this area that doesn't have any development that I'm aware of.

Weather considerations:

Avalanche issues for all of Jericho Wall during the winter.

The upper section of this route is almost never in the sun, with the lower sections going into shade in the early afternoon. Large snow cone may be present at the base early in the season, but with the start being 15-20' up a 4th class buttress, this does not prevent one from starting the route in these conditions providing you're comfortable traversing the cone.

The Book of Ruth

Epidemia de Opiáceos

Jericho Wall Free

Jericho Wall

Horns of Jericho (Direct Start)

Land of Munge and Honey

V 5.7 A3-

70m rope required.

Nailing and Cams.

Wet in early spring

Should not be climbed in winter if large snowpack exists on rim (

Danger of avalanche over most of the route - see photo

)

Pitch 1: (A2) 160’ -  C1 to 5th class traverse to A2 beaks

Pitch 2: (A2+) 140’ - A2+ beaks to slab nailing

Pitch 3: (A2+) 110’ -  Penji/tension left to hooking a flake into Wide overhanging flared crack to thin nailing to nailing and rivet traverse out of roof

Pitch 4: (A2) 150’ -  Nailing and rivets to beaks then mungey wide cracks to anchor

Pitch 5: (A2) 225’ -  C1 to headwall then C1 and nailing to free traverse around a pinnacle to beak corner to nailing hooks and wide cams to ledge

Pitch 6: (A3) 100’ -  Free to C2 to hooking to thin beak tips, belay on face left of crack system

Pitch 7: (A1)  205’ -  Nailing and free to rightward C1 to thin C1 to free, traverse left to anchor

Pitch 8: (5.7) 110’ -  Free fist crack up and right then traverse to rappel tree on summit.

Rap route to descend. All rap anchors setup with stainless rap rings.

When pulling rope over pitch 6 and 5, pull rope to the left.

From P4, go straight down to dedicated rap anchor on the lip of roof,

70m rap to p1 anchor from there.

Special thanks Shaun Reed and Travis Heidepriem for being awesome partners on this project and to Rob Kennedy and John Clark for your help (and photos).

This route is defined by mostly high quality stone, long pitches, splitter cracks, good belay ledges, afternoon shade (crux goes into the shade by noon in Spring and Fall) and breathtaking views of Mount Broderick, Liberty Cap, Vernal and Nevada falls.

The majority of the climbing is 5.10, with two pitches of 5.11 and one pitch of 5.12-. The crux is a short and powerful 5.12- boulder problem, followed by a second, short, height-dependent 5.11+ boulder problem. Both cruxes can be aided at C1. The route is generally very safe, with abundant protection opportunities and thoughtful bolt placements. All anchors are bolted, except the 1st pitch and 7th pitch anchor, which are tied-off trees. The route can easily go at 5.10 C1.

Approach Pitch:

Most parties will want to rope up for this pitch. From the base of the ramp, scramble up the easy 30ft 5th-class ramp with sparse protection to a giant 2nd class vegetated ledge. Traverse the ledge until it becomes possible to start trending up via 5th class terrain, with few protection opportunities. Alternatively, you may follow the ledge to its end and make unprotected 5th class moves directly up near the right-side of the gully. As you climb, eventually step across the gully to a tree with slings (5.5), the first pitch starts here. DO NOT climb the actual vegetated gully.

Pitch 1 (5.10c, 150'):

Traverse to the climber’s left to a bolted face. Climb amazing crimp rails up white rock for 50' past four bolts and one gear placement. At the angling ledge, perform a trick 5.10 mantle boulder problem move to gain a ramp, then a second 5.10 boulder problem to gain another ramp to the spacious belay ledge.

Pitch 2 "Daddy Lichen"

(5.11b, 150')

:

Traverse the ledge about 15 feet to a splitter crack in white rock (you can’t see the crack from the anchor). Extend your first few gear placements. At a small roof at the top of the crack, clip a bolt and perform a 5.11 crux move to a featured face with four more bolts. After the last bolt, traverse a dirty ledge and climb large blocks to the anchor at a small ledge (below a huge ledge).

Pitch 3 "The Traverse Pitch"

(5.10c, 50')

:

From the anchor, don't go up, instead traverse to the climber’s right to a bolt. Perform a height dependent 5.10 down-step, below the bolt, to a flake. Clip a second bolt and mantle the flake. Plug gear into a blocky crack and make a few 5.10 traverse moves to the climber's left, past some features, into splitter double-cracks to a bolted anchor and the one marginal belay stance of the route.

Pitch 4 "Iron Messiah"

(5.12a, 150')

:

This is what you came for! From the anchor, climb to the tree, plug some gear in the roof, take a breath and turn the arete. Soak in the exposure and climb the featured crack to a roof. At the roof, turn another arete (crux), to a stance. Build an optional belay here or continue up a juggy rail to a third roof (jeez!) and perform the final crux move around a third arete (OMG!) to a splitter finger crack, to a stance. De-pump and commit to the final 5.10+ crack to the anchor on a spacious ledge. Such an amazing pitch!

Pitch 5 "The Trumpet"

(5.10c, 115')

:

Climb the splitter 5.10 thin hands crack to a ledge, then climb another splitter 5.10 thin hands crack to another ledge. A final aesthetic 5.10 splitter lieback takes you to another ledge and a bolted anchor.

Pitch 6 "The Crispy Corner"

(5.11a, 180')

:

From the anchor, climb up a hand crack above (and to the left of) the belay and step left into the corner. Climb the burly corner to the roof, then make an unexpected crimp traverse left, around an arete (exposure!). At the tree, avoid stepping in the eroding dirt, sling the tree long and continue up the ramp to an anchor on a ledge. Careful of loose blocks at the top of the ramp.

Pitch 7 "OBP" (5.10c, 110'):

Climb straight-up off the anchor and traverse to the climbers' left up past some loose blocks. Climb 4th and easy 5th class to a small tree with a sling. Clip the sling then traverse out to a bolt. Perform a crux slab traverse on cool rock, past the bolt to a splitter crack and imagine making that move without the bolt. Climb the splitter crack to a ramp and past a first tree with slings, to a second tree on a spacious ledge.

Pitch 8 "The Summit Pitch aka Big Groaner"

(5.10a, 140')

:

This pitch has the worst rock quality on the route and we didn't clean it. Follow the path of least resistance, but generally the pitch goes directly up from the anchor, then traverses to the climber's left (5.10a) and finishes up a blocky ramp to the summit. This pitch is heads-up but not "R". Ample gear exists, you just have to look for it.

Rappel the route with 2x 60m ropes to the tree above the big ledge with slings (official start of p1). From there, do a double-rope sideways rappel across the approach pitch and down to its start.

Jericho Wall is a fun/obscure moderate grade V in the shade. Mellow nailing (95% beaking), Bolted anchors, and a big ledge on P4 and P9 make it a good candidate to do in summer without a portaledge.  You rappel the route to descend.

The 2nd ascent party cleaned the majority of the loose blocks, but this route is still fresh and should be treated as so.

Direct variation start to Jericho Wall. Gives you a pitch of C2 fun followed by two pitches of A2ish nailing for those that want a full value nailing experience on the wall. Cracks are still a bit dirty and exfoliation should be expected on pitch 1 and 3.

Can be used as a more direct rap route when descending from Jericho as well. Do not skip belays if doing this.

Trip report found here

goo.gl/GcctPQ

Unreported route that starts after the 2nd pitch of Jericho Wall and reconnects to Jericho Wall around the Trumpet pitch. Some good sections of thin nailing, but overall a mungy, chossy, and unworthy route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. Jericho Wall