go up the steep face left of the dihedral clipping the first 3 bolts, then traverse right around the arete and follow a jagged crack to the anchor chain links. can place gear in the crack or simply clip the line of bolts within arm's reach on the face right of the crack. clipping 2 or 3 out of these 4 bolts would make a total of 5 or 6 bolts to clip

Original Route

Turning Point

Holy Crap

Perro De La Guerra

The Pyramid

Flying Guillotine

The Blood of Brahm

Circus Midget

Ticked Off.

Yahoo Predator

Perro Del Amore

The crux is getting past the first bolt, doing an improbable move that is height dependent.

The route farthest to the right on the main wall. Crux is a big move up and left after the second bolt. For shorter people this is way harder.

A fun, plumb bob of a route which ascends a neat line up improbable steepness.

Climb lower angle blocky and kind of tricky slab and shallow cracks to first bolt below roof with crack splitting face above. Climb up through roof, staying to the right of the prow to left. Step left where convenient (joining Flying Guillotine), and, traverse up the bolt protected face on reachy, spaced out jugs on the steep wall.

Climb up through shallow roof (easier than it looks!) and either step left to finish on the open cold shut anchor (top of Perro De La Guerra), or, sling that anchor long and step right to the low angle layback/undercling and follow that to a shallow alcove corner crack.

Clip the last bolt then step up and hit the semi flared finger crack to the chains.

Variations that might be useful: clip first bolt, then step up right and clip the next two bolts on the adjacent route to the right, Circus Midget. Then, step back left and finish as per the above.

Holy Crap is a short variation of Flying Guillotine by going Rt to the 12c anchor thus avoiding the crux of Flying G. Making it about 5.9.

An excellent route that demands superior footwork and the ability to hold onto some small holds. Begin on "Flying Guillotine" and after clipping the 1st two bolts climb left following the corner. Clip the next 2 bolts of "Flying Guillotine" from the corner and then continue up and left passing 3 more bolts.

Start on the right prow/arete, continue up to a nice lieback crack, then head up and right to anchors.

Flying Guillotine shares the same start as Holy Crap. After pulling the overhang move right continuing right traversing the undercling them up the finger jam crack to the anchor.

The crux on this route is getting to the second bolt. Big jug for clipping. Careful of the loose rocks about half way up. You don't need them!

go up the center face up to the thin crack under the roof and up.

Undercling the Roof going left to the baffling crux move to a jug(Don't fall), then continue up right then head straight up to the last bolt of Perro De La Gurra to cold shut anchor.

Thin crimpy slab moves while side pulling the arete. The crux comes after clipping the 4th bolt above the steep overlaps

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall