Tricky tight dihedral to a thin, crimpy seam.

Mr. Freeze

Dark Knight

Stronger Than Dirt

Disciple of Billy

More Than Just Mild

In the Pink

Boy Wonder

Double Flipper

Poison Ivy

Tall Dollar

She's A Man, Man

The Penguin

Transflexual

Bat Angel

Grindrite

Joker's Acid Bath

Flex Your Head

Machine Gun Jumblies

Dr. Evil

Riddler

Kingsnake

This blank face in the center of the Gotham City wall is a technical nightmare.  Fortunately (unfortunately?) the difficulties are brief.  Start with easy climbing to a very high first bolt.  At the second bolt make a dicey traverse left to a decent small crimp.  From this an extremely hard high step, crank off of a sidepull lead to a good edge and the third bolt.  Move back right to a pinchy hold and with poor feet make a long move up and right to a jug (the Joker's chin).  Mantle into the corner system and enjoy an easy ride to the anchors.  Used to be .12c in the old guide, upgraded to .12d in the 10th addition.  A recent broken hold made sure it deserved the upgrade.

Bouldery climbing through the first three bolts leads to a steep prow. Keep a close belay between bolts one and two or stick clip bolt two. Bust out the prow to the base of the obvious finger crack. Powerful climbing out the right trending crack leads to the anchor of She's A Man, Man.  Stop here, or put a long sling on that anchor and finish on the crack of Dr. Evil (we called this variation Dark Knight Rises). Many other variations exist.

This has probably been top-roped by many, including myself, but now it's a great lead.

There a bolt down low where you need it and then a crumbly crack that takes gear that may or may not hold a fall.

Bouldering climbing that leads to a slab finish.

Looks like it will be more fun than it actually is.  A loose gully is climbed for about 50 feet to access the nice-looking pink dihedral above.  The crack in the corner is mostly a tips crack, but does eventually widen to accept fingers and then hands toward the top.  Webbing replaced with chains now.

Technical and cruxy between the 3rd and 5th bolts with another crux passing the 8th.  Cerebral and worthy route.  Surprised it doesn't see more action in light of its proximity to the heavily trafficked Austin Powers maneuvers nearby.

Curious to know what others of the fledgling 5.11 sort think of this route.

Climb up face into a crack. After the fifth bolt you end up at a good rest where you traverse left on some slab. Finish at a two bolt anchor.

Right of Grindrite, start up Double Flipper for 3 bolts. Continue up and left following painted hangers for a long way.

Double cracks in a cleft to start, move up and right through a short cruxy roof (look right for bolts). Pull through to steep postive holds and a few more bolts before moving out further right onto the exposed face. Enjoy the roar of the river as you move upwards and slightly left into a shallow dihedral that will take you to the chains. Clipping the anchor can be a touch awkward, get the feet up and find the money mini-jug. A loose block is found just below the anchors to the right, so stay left until you are above it. A very fun climb!

Located at the right end of the large recess, between

Dr. Evil

and

Flex Your Head

(which is around the corner to the right).

Mostly moderate climbing with a short 11- crux getting over a bulge. Start just below Dr Evil and climb up a crack to the first bolt. Traverse right past a few more bolts and make a couple burly moves getting through the steep corner. If you find the finger pocket out left it makes life easier. Finish up a juggy flake to the anchors. It is also possible to link this into the second half of Dr Evil.

fun and technical 5.12 climbing.  one crux at midheight involving balance and mental trickery to get high up under some underclings.  Then get ready to get thin for the last 3 bolts.  would be 5 stars if the rock quality on the upper holds were a little better...

Extremely clean, semi-squeeze job. Big moves characterize this route. Very "bouldery" but not steep. Thin edges that lie far away from eachother with some tricky footwork. Clip first bolt of Flex Your Head (or not, easy to skip or unclip), then move left to big jug that propels you onto a blank looking face. 5 more bolts gets you through the crux, where you move right and join Flex Your Head for 3 or 4 more bolts (you can easily skip the first bolt you encounter after joining Flex because you are already over it anyway...) and the anchors. Really fun hard climbing.

Route "F" in the Lewis guide.  High first bolt but pretty moderate getting up to it, make sure you're being spotted just in case.

Once you figure out the main crux it goes relatively easily; there's a stance below it that you can camp out to read the moves.  The sequence is pretty particular with a limited number of tiny pockets and thin crimps to use, and some reaches and full lock-offs.  Pretty fun route.

A slabby ramp leading to a Yosemite like dihedral on beautiful grey rock.  The slab is easier terrain with more widely spaced bolts.  The crux is near the top of the route and incorporates liebacks and/or stemming.  Holds are generally good throughout the entire route. This route is somewhat of an anomoly for the Gorge since it involves more technique opposed to mostly power, making it a climb to not miss.

The steep dihedral just outside of the alcove on the right.  The climb starts up the face to the start of the steep corner system.  Strenuous moves lead up the dihedral to a stance.  From here perplexing moves lead left and up to a juggier finish.  The climbing is amazingly varied and quite sustained.  One of the best 5.11's in the gorge.  The name is very fitting.

Machine Gun Jumblies is a long, well protected moderate face climb that continues above Double Flipper 5.9.  Best to climb that route and keep on going up this route in one pitch.

Jumblies liebacks up the right facing corner above the Double Flipper anchor past a committing wide lie-back move between the first and second bolts.  Above this the climbing eases back to 5.9/5.8.

Route starts on some face, moves to a flake, which turns into a beautiful dihedral. After topping out on the dihedral traverse right on slab towards a crack system. Head straight up the crack where you'll find some great finger jams.

Crimpy face climbing to a great rest, followed by a thin seam to some more face climbing for another bolt or two. First pitch of Mr. Freeze.

The sort of obscure yet high quality pitch that makes the Gorge so worthwhile.

Starts with an easy, runout slab which takes you to a ledge at the base of a headwall.  Clipping the first bolt on the headwall can be a production if you don't have a long reach.  Once that bolt is clipped, launch into the headwall where you will find sustained, intricate climbing all the way to the anchors.

This route was unpublished until the 10th edition so as of this writing, still needs a little buffing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gotham City