The South Ridge is a striking feature that begs to be climbed. As a member of that first recorded ascent team, I can vouch that there was little sign of it being climbed before, except for a 20+ year-old chewed up and faded white rap sling at the top of pitch two. It also features an abundance of loose, lichen-y rock that will keep it from being "classic" unless it gets a lot of traffic. This is certainly an "adventure climb"!

Pitch 1 - 20m, 4th class. Gain the South Ridge from the snowfields, then traverse aproximately 70' down and right to the start. 20m - Climb straight up to gain the ridge line. DO NOT link with Pitch 2, as your belayers will be in the fall line of any P2 rockfall.

Pitch 2 - 30m, low 5th class. Climb the ridge! Pitch ends in a small notch below a gendarme. The historic rap sling (only sign of an earlier attempt) are on the overhanging horn. Scary to think of rappelling on the that!

Pitch 3 - 30m, 5.6. Bypass the gendarme on the right, keeping to the more difficult but also more solid rock. Regain the ridge and stop just short of the notch.

Pitch 4 - 30m, low 5th class. Continue up the ridge to the cockscomb belaying just short of the summit ridge.

Pitch 5 - 30m, low 5th class. Best broken into 2 or 3 quick short pitches to the summit.

Descent: Descend the North Ridge.

South Ridge

North Ridge

The North Ridge starts at the obvious col between the Aiguille and the Torment-Forbidden ridge. 2-3 pitches of almost-level ridge climbing can be pitched out, simul-climbed, or short-roped (3rd class). A single 4th class pitch, 50-60', is the route's crux. A shorter 4th class ridge pitch gains the summit.

Descent is by down climbing to the top of the steep pitch, where rappel slings wait in a great position. Then retrace your steps across the level ridge to the col.

Description

Routes in Aiguille de l'M