This solo scramble climbs the exposed and unprotected Southeastern Ridge of Turkey Peak. Walk off using the hikers trail found on the West side.

Turkey Ridge

Butter Ball

Butterfingers

Mighty Dog

Central Ramp

Turkey Hooks

Windy Ramp

Butter Ball is located about twenty-five feet right of the Central Ramp, starts off a large, sloping ledge, and climbs the right side of the southwest face. This is the second bolted line on the main wall, to the right of Turkey Hooks/Butterfingers. Climb the vertical face on using deep, in cut holds that appear just when you need them. The climb is pretty sustained with a crux about 2/3 of the way up the route (thin face moves). Like Turkey Hooks, the anchors are set a way back from the wall. There is an annoying flake that makes rappelling or lowing hard on your rope best just to walk off. Requires long slings or webbing/cord to top rope. Good route, too bad it's so short.

The face climb has several thin moves.  The crux comes after the third bolt where the holds are very thin prior to a jug near the anchors.

A great climb in a beautiful position. 

  Ascend the left side of the face past a horizontal break, and up the arete to the top.

This ramp is often used by rappellers and boy scouts. Sometimes used as convenient, but exposed access to the top. Not much of a climb really.

Turkey Hooks is a fun climb up a short, right facing dihedral.  Work up the dihedral past three bolts to a small, left angling ramp about 3/4 of the way up.  The crux is the transition from the dihedral onto the ramp which requires a couple of thin moves on the face that lead to the ramp.  Pass one more bolt en route to the anchors.  The anchors are set a little ways back from the top of the route, so it is best to rap the route or use long slings if you want to top rope.

Start below the ramp and follow smaller than expected features up the ramp to a comfortable stance below the headwall. Work your way up the left wall and into the notch, from which you can top out. Beware of a few hollow sounding jugs near the top.

Turkey Peak is the tall, sloping peak east of the Main Dome and due south of Freshman Mountain.  It immediately attracts your attention because unlike all of the other formations in the park, Turkey Peak is not a dome, but an actual peak.  Considered to be the oldest rock anywhere in the park, it has a completely different feel and type of climbing than the other areas.  All of the climbing (ten routes from 5.4 to 5.12a) is found high on the south-southwest face which makes the climbing here feel a little exposed.  As you approach the park entrance, you can look to the right and see if anyone is on the wall.  This is a great area early morning area in the summer (when its in the shade) or winter afternoon area (sun and protected from the wind).  The top of the peak can be reached by scrambling up the northwest side, or by climbing the Central Ramp route at 5.4.  The Central Ramp route also serves as a good landmark separating the Mighty Dog Wall from the southwest face.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turkey Peak